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My car alarm started going off for no apparent reason. After much investigation and browsing online, I was able to trace the problem to the passenger side read door when the fault went hard. The door closed micro switch not working giving a red light and details on the dash. Eventually I found information online that showed the connections to the generic control unit under drivers side dash. The Green connector pin 15 is the signal wire from pax rear door. It was not going to earth when the door was closed. My solution (to avoid replacing the door locking assembly) was to solder a wire to the wire going to pin 15 and connect it to earth(negative). Alarm is working normally and other 3 doors give open indications on dash. My information gives:: Green pin 18 going to drivers side rear door. RH Rear door switch Blue Pin 21 to bonnet sw White Pin 21 to LH Front door switch. White Pin 22 to RH Front door switch. I hope this info helps someone but cannot guarantee info 100% However it has sorted my problem

Just purchased a 2015 F-Type boyhood dream 😊 was told carplay was available but I can seem to access even with cable? Any advice please

I have had this problem off and on in almost three years. First it was warped front discs, had them skimmed which gave a marked improvement. About 12 months later same problem, this time discs and pads replaced, again marked improvement. Recently feedback on brake pedal and steering gave the impression of brake problem again which really pi**ed me off. The car has passed its MOT with no problem. I went back to my mechanic conveying my frustration, he identified a problem with front upper suspension arm, I told him to replace both n/s and o/s. What a difference the braking and steering is so smooth, like a new car 😊 thought i would share in case anyone else has a similar problem.

Hi did you ever get this problem resolved?

Thank you ! I have just ordered a replacement starter motor, will see what happens once it is fitted.

Hi Jim, An excellent and likely diagnosis of the cause. I'm grateful to you. I am encouraged in that there are no messages on the on board computer which is not slow in coming foreward on just about every possible topic - except this one !! So if it is real, cannot be serious. The car is running fantastically well, recently serviced plus gearbox with new sump pan etc., I usually achieve on a run of mixed roads 32 - 34 mpg, as shown on the onboard computer. Thanks again Jim, Kind regards Dominic

Drunk

Fascinating and helpful to see the issues that F Pace owners have had. My 3 litre diesel 2018 had bottom end failure at 64, 000 miles . Have been looking at scrap/new engine/recon engine. Was offered second hand but not going to take a chance. My concern is after spending £8,000 on recon engine or £15,000 plus on new I could have another expensive failure on car worth £16,000. I wish I had known about bottom end failure problems. I have been quoted £5300 to buy car as it is with bottom end failure

2000 S Type 3.0. For Sale. 49,000 miles only but unfortunately no MOT. Sell for only £450. Clearly worth a lot more and a great genuine car once fixed. It has been used as a second car since new - hence the very low mileage. The car is beyond economic repair when having to pay £80 + an hour for mechanics to fix, but is very fixable by a Jaguar enthusiast. New petrol tank recently fitted. Car located in Macclesfield Cheshire. Contact me for more detail if required. Email: [email protected]

Alcoholic

Hi Jon Sounds right to me. If the starter is drawing current and fails to start in the normal time, repeated attempts will drop the battery voltage to a point where the computers start hallucinating 🙂 Hope you get it sorted. Johnn

Ale

Had a chat with the technicians at work, consensus is a faulty starter motor. Suggestion is that the failure to turn over properly is what's triggering the fault codes for both sensors.

Beer

Hi Dominic, good that you think your imagination is playing a part in your issues, but keep an eye on it. It could be something as simple as a slight air leak on the inlet side, which seals up when the engine warms up. A smoke test might reveal a culprit, but remember to do it with a cold engine. N6 JMX

I'm beginning to think I imagined this. I think it was more to do with the road surface !! I have tried to monitor any difference or irregular "heartbeat" - pretty sure all is good. Age doesnt come alone......apparently. It had a full service in January and a new servo - which was prior affecting the changing of the gears due to the brake lights coming on. That was perfectly resolved, with a new servo.

Thank you very much for the referral to the Jaguar Daimler Heritage Trust. I'm going to look into that today.

Hi Tim, beautiful looking machine. The first port of call for any history research should be the Jaguar Daimler Heritage Trust (JDHT), who hold all of the original build records for all Jaguar, including SS, cars since 1931. One can apply for a heritage certificate for your vehicle and you can see more by following the safe link below: Jaguar Daimler Heritage Trust N6 JMX

Ginger

😂

Hi All, My father in law has a 1939 (he believes) Jaguar SS100 which I was hoping to get some additional information on. He is located in the United States, and he believes he is only the second owner of the vehicle (purchased from a gentleman in Monaco in the 1990s). We are just beginning to research the history of the vehicle as he is considering listing it for sale soon, and would like to know as much as possible. If anyone has any history they can share, it would be tremendously appreciated. Thank you for your time! Vehicle details: Hunter Green 1939 (he believes, though there is some contradictory thinking it may be a '37) SS100, right hand drive. 3.5 liter engine Vehicle serial: 39096 Engine Serial: M1073E (serial matching on engine, to plate on car chassis) Body no: 5023

Thank you !

Hi Jon http://www.jagrepair.com/images/AutoRepairPhotos/CarPDFFiles/SType/S-Type 2002.5-2008-FSM-Workshop.pdf You will find lots of useful stuff on the jagrepair.com site. Good Luck

Thank you, I am beginning to suspect the starter motor might be the culprit. I found the 'engine earth strap', unfortunately not quite what I was expecting. It seems to be just a single wire that appears out of the rest of the loom, only around four inches of cable with an eyelet on the end, bolted to the front of drivers side cylinder head. Pain in the neck to get to it properly but using my inspection camera and following the wire to the bolt, everything feels okay, no exposed wire that I can see, bolt seems tight. I would like to inspect the + and - cables going to the starter motor as well, but can't get the car high enough in the air by the roadside to remove the undertray. Looks like taking it in to work and putting it on a ramp might be the best option. No idea where the starter motor even is ! Presumably where the gearbox meets the block ? Did wonder whether the starter motor could be sticking or not engaging properly (solenoid issues ?) If it's the same age and mileage as the car, (2006 and 176,000 miles !), it might be due for a replacement ?

Tally-Ho