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I'm looking to have this restored asap. Needs new sills, floors and detailing of body condition & minor rust spots, Conolising/mending leather. fresh set of carpets. Then bare metal respray (maroon) & check chrome wires. Any advice?

Hi Robert....welcome to the club I have sent you a private message with the membership number you requested Regards, Trevor (admin)

Glad to hear you finally got it done Cameron, yours was much more frilly than mine though! 😮 Hopefully it should stay solid for several (or more) years to come now!

woodchuck ---another name for Groundhog ???

Thank you for looking. I've found what I wanted on other websites.

X150 wind deflectors are available from recognised suppliers such as Adamesh and Paramount Performance, circa £180 each. I got mine from Adamesh at least 15 years ago and it has been excellent. correct shape and can stay in place even with the top up. N6 JMX

Only problem is, if the adjust are original, buy the time it get to you in the post, ods are they will be broke aswell.

Hi If the front end feels floaty, thats usually the shock absorbers, would replace both if it were mine cheers Joe

Hi everyone, I'm looking to buy a 2017 Jaguar XF S Sportbrake 3.0 ltr with circa 70k miles the clock. I was just wondering if anyone had any experience with the Sportbrake and more importantly the 3.0ltr V6 engine? Are they a pretty reliable engine or are there big things for me to look out for? I previously owned a 2017 2.0ltr ingenium saloon that ended with a collapsed CAT and a hefty bill so being extra cautious before venturing towards Jaguar again. Any advice will be greatly appreciated. Cheers! :)

Hi Martin, welcome to the wonderful world of Jaguar motoring, especially nice in an XKR. E5 petrol is the fuel of choice, with 98, 99 and 100 available depending on forecourt used. The XKR will of course sort itself out if you need to use E10 fuel, but most folks shy away from this for a wide range of reasons. N6 JMX

Got everything sorted thanks to JustBadly pointing me at the plastic bits needed to make the headlights work....thanks to all who joined the thread. Kevin.

The manual steering sensor reset didn't appear to help so I have it going to an import specialist tomorrow. Unfortunately (or maybe not), the nearest Jaguar dealer is nearly 3 hours away so I'll try this first.

Still waiting for my starter motor to arrive !

Anyone? Someone must have retrofitted a heated steering wheel to there XF, and activated it themselves.

Hi, All! New to this forum due to having recently been sold an X-Type by a family member for £300 with MOT until January 2026 - uncle got the dreaded glow plug light and “gearbox fault” after he had the dpf removed. Being mechanically minded I decided to take a look whilst I borrowed the car. After about a week he said I can have it for £300, so I managed to narrow down the problem to the Turbo actuator, the control arm for the vanes is as free as fresh air in the countryside. I opened up the actuator to find one of the small wires to be loose - the usual culprits near the connector to the worm gear. Upon scraping away the silvering for the weld i managed to nick the one next to it so decided to scrape down to the copper on both wires and place a new wire on both, so 4 copper pads with a small wire bridging the 2 pairs. Obviously I’ve added extra length to allow for expansion under the heat. Results are: The glow plug light has gone (or hasnt showed up so far) but the auto box somehow hangs in 3rd whilst accelerating up to about 3000 rpm (not exactly hard acceleration either - just as I’m joining a motorway and such) and forcing me to upshift myself using sport mode then putting back into standard. And also at lower speeds (under 30) it feels as if the car is trying to shift up but doesnt quite get there so can judder a little until I put my foot down to force it to shift. Now my question is… does the ECU have to relearn to drive after being disconnected from the battery? If so, how long will that take? As I’ve already done around 50 miles since the battery had been reconnected. Any thoughts? 2009 X-Type 2.2D Automatic

I have a 2005 S Type 2.5V6, it is a Japanese import and today has covered 39k miles. last Autumn after leaving the car at an airport for a week or so during the drive home the car went into restricted mode and had a misfire. Garage said water had got into the plugs somehow, so these were changed and all was ok, then the dreaded warning light came on with a P0420 code. Garage told me it was the catalytic converter, drivers side that needs replacing. I tried cleaners and E5 fuel but the light kept coming on. bizarrely the car has now passed its MOT with the warning light still on, another garage has changed one of the lamda sensors and has now done a diagnostic test, this showed both cats ‘pulsing’, they’re going to do a smoke test this week to check for air leaks does anyone have any ideas please? Is it likely that both cats have failed? If they have what should I do? best Julian

Hi Peter, so if it was replaced in 2019, it is now in the consideration zone of needing to be changed (5 and a half years old), irrespective of what a garage tester says. Your choice, continue to experience problems generated by a battery not providing the stable voltage the sensitive electronics in the vehicle require, or change the battery and eliminate that issue for peace of mind. Only you can make the choice. N6 JMX

I have a V8 1999 XJ. The auto works well enough but will not kick down. I understand there is a sensor on the carboration system that operates the kick down electronically. Could this sensor be at fault, please? Many thanks

Hi Ryan, check out the site for Mr12Volt at the safe link below. Mr12Volt Car Interface N6 JMX

My car alarm started going off for no apparent reason. After much investigation and browsing online, I was able to trace the problem to the passenger side read door when the fault went hard. The door closed micro switch not working giving a red light and details on the dash. Eventually I found information online that showed the connections to the generic control unit under drivers side dash. The Green connector pin 15 is the signal wire from pax rear door. It was not going to earth when the door was closed. My solution (to avoid replacing the door locking assembly) was to solder a wire to the wire going to pin 15 and connect it to earth(negative). Alarm is working normally and other 3 doors give open indications on dash. My information gives:: Green pin 18 going to drivers side rear door. RH Rear door switch Blue Pin 21 to bonnet sw White Pin 21 to LH Front door switch. White Pin 22 to RH Front door switch. I hope this info helps someone but cannot guarantee info 100% However it has sorted my problem

Just purchased a 2015 F-Type boyhood dream 😊 was told carplay was available but I can seem to access even with cable? Any advice please

I have had this problem off and on in almost three years. First it was warped front discs, had them skimmed which gave a marked improvement. About 12 months later same problem, this time discs and pads replaced, again marked improvement. Recently feedback on brake pedal and steering gave the impression of brake problem again which really pi**ed me off. The car has passed its MOT with no problem. I went back to my mechanic conveying my frustration, he identified a problem with front upper suspension arm, I told him to replace both n/s and o/s. What a difference the braking and steering is so smooth, like a new car 😊 thought i would share in case anyone else has a similar problem.

Hi did you ever get this problem resolved?

Hi Jim, An excellent and likely diagnosis of the cause. I'm grateful to you. I am encouraged in that there are no messages on the on board computer which is not slow in coming foreward on just about every possible topic - except this one !! So if it is real, cannot be serious. The car is running fantastically well, recently serviced plus gearbox with new sump pan etc., I usually achieve on a run of mixed roads 32 - 34 mpg, as shown on the onboard computer. Thanks again Jim, Kind regards Dominic

Fascinating and helpful to see the issues that F Pace owners have had. My 3 litre diesel 2018 had bottom end failure at 64, 000 miles . Have been looking at scrap/new engine/recon engine. Was offered second hand but not going to take a chance. My concern is after spending £8,000 on recon engine or £15,000 plus on new I could have another expensive failure on car worth £16,000. I wish I had known about bottom end failure problems. I have been quoted £5300 to buy car as it is with bottom end failure