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hi guys ,just joined i have a 2006 jaguar s type 2.7 diesel ,spent a year renovating it ,from dccv to fuel pressure pump belt with no problems ,still got to conquer the air con ,so far have swapped dccv valve ,pressure switch ,ccm,system fully topped up but still have a hissing from vents ,temperature is fine but air con not ice cold ,any sugestions be welcome ,im guessing expansion valve but trying to avoid it.also my 2nd question is my instrument cluster is faulty ,i have purchased a second hand one but apparently it needs to be cloned or paired with the car ,just wondered if anyone has the software to do it ,im in truro cornwall ,i have icarsoft which is pretty useless to be honest.hope im in the correct place for intros this is where the site took me ,thankyou

Here's a bit of a dichotomy for folks like me that prefer to stick with the development tyre as designed for the vehicle. For the New XK, the X150, the development tyres were: Dunlop SP Sport Maxx and correspondingly with a "J" for Jaguar spec. Pirelli P Zero, with either a "JRS or J" spec, again fro Jaguar. I typically replace my tyres at 5 years old, irrespective of the wear during the period - obviously if they were worn down, replacement would have been sooner. In 2025, it was time to replace all 4 tyres on an age basis, but when I started to search for replacement Dunlop SP Sport Maxx J spec, which I have had fitted to the car from new, then there appeared to be a lack of front tyres in the J spec - 255/35/20R. Rears in the correct spec at 285/30/20R were readily available. After some digging I was informed that Dunlop (now a part of Good Year) have ceased production of the front tyres in the correct size and specification. The alternate would be Sport Maxx RT2, which I understand are a little bit of a softer compound with the added disadvantage of being simply a "generic" sporty tyre. I actually believe that there are better generic sporty tyres out there if forced down that particular road. Undeterred, since I wanted 4 matching tyres, I spoke with Pirelli and found that they have the reverse problem, suitable P Zero for the fronts, but no such luck for replacement rears. Pirelli also advised that their production schedule look ahead, which is typically 8 weeks, was not indicating that the rears with J spec were going to be available anytime soon. After much thought, I removed all 4 wheels and tyres from the car and carried out a thorough inspection. My conclusion was formed from the basis that the front tyres were actually in perfect condition, having nearly 7mm of tread evenly across the section, so around 1mm of wear in 5 years and 15,500 miles. The rears however were worn down close to the wear bars, so some 7mm of wear in the same 5 years and 15,500 miles, and therefore rightly due for a change on wear. At least the rear wear pattern was completely even across the tread section. I have elected to change only the rears for the time being and maintain a watchful eye on the fronts, fully accepting that if I do encounter a front tyre issue, I will be back to square one and looking for 4 x replacement tyres once again. I am sure that the fronts will begin to affect the handling by becoming harder as the compound ages past the 5 years, but despite wearing out the rears completely, I am not pushing the car as hard as I might once have. Unfortunately tyre choice is very much a personal thing for a lot of folks, but my choice has been, to date, to stick with the development tyre despite its technology being over 20 years old - although manufacturing processes and constituent compounds will have been updated since 2005 during its development. Also tyres are not something that one can try before you buy so moving to a replacement brand, premium or otherwise, is always going to be a bit of a gamble and one has to seek out personal experience of the Jaguar community for alternative suggestions. I understand that a lot of folks cannot see past Michelin, in the various sporty guises, but I have never had good experience with Michelin, so historically i stay away from them, but what have others out there found? N6 JMX

Timely

Hello, I’m trying to find a passenger side rear quarter casing for a convertible. The part number is C2P24940LEG The Engineering number is 6W8331491AP0LEG (this is the number that will be on the part itself) Is there anyone out there who has one?

I'm just wondering if anyone has an answer to this condenser issue as I also now have the same problem? Many thanks, Chris

Mike, may not be of use depending on your damage, but, a buddy a couple of years ago inflicted damage on his AM Vanquish front carbon splitter. AM Works quoted him 7K! Someone on an AM Forum pointed him to a company that “welds” carbon fibre! It still cost him, I think, around 2K, but having seen the repair afterwards the quality was first rate. I will investigate …..

Yes, great day, well worth the journey, fortunately on a glorious sunny day too! I was spell bound by David Marks and his presentation, plus the very fact he was there at all after the week he had suffered. Some man! A group of us from our local club went, and all agreed, very useful indeed. Sorry, didn’t intend to preach to the converted ! Hopefully, might help other embers here

If you are still looking for an answer to this then I may be able to help. You can get a module that fits behind the stereo, a bit of a headache to fit as half the dashboard trim has to be removed but it's not difficult. The module is readily available on eBay, I got mine from AliExpress.

Hi Karen, if you have gotten into the car, then pop the bonnet and fit a secondary battery or booster pack to the +ve and -ve terminal posts under there. Don't do anything else other than then use the boot switch to open it. If need be, you can also use these posts to charge the main battery, but it sounds as though that has gone past the point of no return and needs to be replaced. N6 JMX

Thank you for answering, l have tried but no luck, they dont even admit the part was ever made,the part is clearly visible on original shocks on flea bay

Finally managed to get time to fit the new starter today. No idea why I bothered, as ironically the car has started first time, every time for the last 2 weeks ! I can honestly say that extricating the top 'hidden' bolt is one of the most stressful car maintenance jobs that I have ever undertaken. It is a 13 mm headed bolt, not a 'stud / nut' like the lower one. Access is absolutely awful, you cannot even see it to get a spanner / socket on it. I managed to get about another half turn using an 's' shaped obstruction spanner and then after dozens of attempts, got a 13 mm 1/4 drive socket on it by attaching it to a 150 mm extension and a universal joint to clear the engine mounting. You have to basically feed the extension in down the side of the starter motor and then try to guide the socket onto the bolt head. I was then lucky enough to be able to undo it with another long 1/4 extension connected to the universal joint. So far, so good.................................. Then actually getting the starter motor out of the gap is another excercise in frustration. You have to twist and turn it at every angle imaginable to avoid damaging the oxygen sensor wires on the catalytic converter. Of course everything has sharp edges, wearing nitrile gloves is a waste of time, as they either split almost instantly or get cut to ribbons. My hands look like I have been attacked by angry cats. Once removed, you have to repeat the same process to get the new one back in place. The bottom stud is easy to get back in but the top bolt was hell on earth. Once again working blind and mostly by 'feel', it must have taken 30 attempts to get the bolt and the extension assembly into place, as there is no room to 'start' the bolt into the hole by hand. Using the same combination of extensions and the flexible joint allowed me to tighten it up for several turns, but it then became almost impossible. The bolt is approximately 50 mm long, so needs a lot of turns to get it tight enough to do the job. At this stage I was worried that I had managed to cross thread it, so had to call on the assistance of one of our technicians, who was doubt muttering '!Removed! amateurs' under his breath. He kindly had a look and had to undo the bolt to be able to check for any damage to the threads. Again, by a stroke of luck, the threads weren't damaged. He then had as much trouble as me trying to get the bolt / extension assembly back into place, when he did, the same problem occurred, seemed to be tightening up well, and then became very hard to turn. Only thing we could think was that the universal joint was now binding against the starter body as the bolt tightened. This resulted in him raiding everyones toolbox to try to find a different universal joint or alternative extension / socket combination. A different joint and a longer handled 1/4 ratchet allowed him to finally tighten the bolt, with much colourful language when he had to hold everything in place whilst one of the other technicians had to find an alternative ratchet to the first one he tried. I then finished up connecting the cables and made sure it would still start before refitting the undertray. Still starting first time, so no idea whether the new started has fixed anything or whether the fault has just 'gone to ground' for a while ? A couple of things have subsequently occurred to me: If doing it again (please, no !), I might be tempted to try a flexible extension drive, usually used for power screwdrivers. I have one the seems quite sturdy and allegedly rated for use with an impact driver. If I put a 13 mm 'nut driver' on the extension and then push it down the starter motor body, I wouldn't need a universal joint, as the extension itself will bend to clear the engine mount. By using the 13 mm 'S' spanner to get a couple of turns on the bolt to initially loosen it, the flexible extension won't be under as much strain when undoing it the rest of the way. The second thing that has been on my mind is the following: On my first attempt at the starter, I gave up and got on with replacing the headlamp washer pump instead. When I removed the wheel arch liner, one of the wires had come out of the plug going to the headlamp washer motor and was just 'floating' with a metal spade connector. The wires themselves also looked as though they had been trapped or damaged at some point, with some technical assistance, the spade connector was refitted to the plastic housing and the wires covered with insulating tape. I don't see how this could have any bearing on the intermittent 'non start' problem, but from that day, it has always started first time ?

Hi There all here free, all in PDF http://www.jagrepair.com/ which manuals are you actually after cheers Joe

Hi Neil, the symptoms you are experiencing are most likely caused by the battery in your XK. In a modern car, like your XK, the battery's ability to start the car is no longer the definitive that the battery is good, even if you have it fully charged. The reason for the faults appearing and reappearing is the spikes to the 12V system caused by an old or failing battery. If you fit a replacement battery, the faults will be cancelled and not reappear. Folks like me consider the battery in my car as a consumable with a life span of just 5 years. Beyond that age, the battery is not capable of sustaining the stable voltages that the car's electronic circuitry needs. N6 JMX

Thank you for taking the time to reply l have tried "DCR AutoParts" but they failed to reply to my email will certainly try the other you mentioned Best wishes mario

Hi All, Can anyone inform me of where the immobiliser is located on this Jaguar. Lost my fob and my Jag is parked in my garage - the key turns all the instruments on but won't fire up the engine so auto electrician suggested I disconnect immobiliser but cannot locate it. Rgds Bodsy

I have a 2003 jaguar S type with five speed manual transmission I am thinking about selling it but I cannot find another similar anywhere I know it is rare to have the manual transmission I just want to get an idea on the value of anyone can help I would appreciate it. thanks

I looked at my inbox, with nothing there.

Hi all, Recently purchased my first jag, the 2003 s-type 4.2L and im having an issue. after clearing up all the leaks and replacing aging hoses, ive come across an issue with the coolant temp as its reading -30 when engine is left over night. When engine is at temp, it only reaches 24deg, not enough to trigger the fan controls. is there some way to reset the value, ive already replaced the temp sensor and checked over the majority of the wiring at this point, pulling my hair out 🙂

Hello everyone, my first message on here, sorry if there is an existing thread already dedicated to this. I have a Jaguar XF R type 2020 and have had it for approximately a year. Out of the blue this week, the sound from the infotainment system has suddenly stopped. There is a clear connection and I can still connect Bluetooth etc but still no sound at all, radio, sat nav, voice control, sensor alarms, nothing at all. Furthermore, the volume switch will not move from level 12. I can still use the touchscreen/see the satnav but no sound at all. I have checked fuses, connections, reset, reconnected devices, restored factory setting etc but still no sound. If anybody has any advice to try and resolve, it really would be appreciated. I maybe resigned to a diagnostic and hoping of course my amp hasn’t blown but wanted to check if anybody had other (cheaper) suggestions. Many thanks everyone!

On removing the 2 fuel pumps from the vehicle I see that one has previously been repaired as it has wires crimped. The second seems to be original and has a black box between the fuel pump and the connector on the fuel tank. The previously replaced fuel pump does not have such a box fitted. Does anyone know what this does? Is it important and should both fuel pump have this black box fitted. Finally, is it possible get hold of new ones?

I also have an iCarsoft JLR code reader - all good with it so far but it has spent most of its time with me in my Honda CR-V due to a recurring knock sensor fault which has turned out to be something else.

Welcome aboard Adrian, lovely looking XKR there, first i think i've seen in white.

Thanks for he thoughts and advice, I'm still thinking about it, but there is a drain plug and a level screw that can be used to gauge the right amount has been put in. There are no issues with the auto transmission at present so I might just go for checking the level and topping it up if necessary. Then there is the question of what ATF fluid to use- I've seen somewhere that there are two types - one for earlier boxes and one for later models ...... so is mine an earlier or later box on a 2005 car? Any ideas? Thanks.

Best way is to check the flow using a garden hose. On any engine i prefer to remove the thermostat and refit the housing then remove the top hose from the rad and insert the garden hose into the top hose - usually a snug fit and then turn the hose on. This runs clean water backwards through the system, exiting from the rad top hose stub so gives a good reverse flush of the system. As a simple go/no-go test to see if it's blocked, run the engine up to temperature and once the 'stat opens, the top hose should be hot. Switch the engine off and use the palm of your hand to feel the temperature of the rad going from top to bottom. It should have a gradual reduction in temp as you get closer to the bottom hose, any sharp changes indicate there is probably a blockage around that place on the inside.

I've owned the car since 2020 an am a private seller. Feel free to contact me on 07464000535 if you have any queries or would like to discuss further. Thank you!