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Pulling

Just bought one of these as it's supposed to be for JLR vehicle. Will let you know how I get on

now sold

I have owned this lovely XK8 for 15 years during which it has been well maintained and serviced with full history. It has a current MOT to 20/02/26. It is mechanically sound but the reactive cruise control requires a replacement module. Interior is in very good condition with a new headliner recently fitted. The wheels have recently been refurbished and the bodywork is in reasonable condition for the age of the car. Attention is required to the rear wheel arches. Looking for offers around £4,950 Please email me at [email protected] for more information and photos if interested.

Hi Fred Only 2 possibilities. It is either leaking: 1) externally, such as venting through the radiator cap as steam or through a leaking hose or radiator or heater core, all of which should be visible. 2) Internally, Either directly into the cylinder to be expelled through the exhaust, or into the lubrication system which should show as "mayonaise" in the oil. I would check the oil for signs of coolant (likewise coolant for signs of oil) and then recheck for leaks when standing still as that is a LOT to be losing without an external leak. Good luck John

Hi common place for water in the boot on S-types is above the rear lights, there a infill piece of rubber across the top of the lights, its very common leak. usually fix is remove the lights and clean it all up, then reseal the upper rubber seal on the light with some silicone and that cures it cheers Joe

Many years back a lot of mechanics were caught out by the firing order on the XJ6 engine. Bizarre as it was, the number 1 cylinder was at the back of the engine and the cylinders then ran to number 6 cylinder being at the front of the engine. Urban myth is that the original blueprints were upside down when the engine was manufactured - how true that is I'm not sure but it did cause many problems for years to come. So, quite possibly the incorrect cylinder location could be a possibility - easily diagnosed by swapping components from the affected cylinder to another one and see if the fault replicates there - this also proves it to be either an injector or ignition fault rather than being the cylinder at fault (e.g. compression, etc) Also if the misfire is current when testing an infra-red temperature gauge can read temperatures on each cylinder and the one(s) that are reading lower temperature are possibly the location of the misfiring cylinder

Hi Geoff, this is one of those "piece of string" questions, without a definitive answer. It is compounded by the Jaguar indication that the gearbox is "sealed for life", although the cynics amongst us would say that hidden in the small print of this indication is "sealed for the life of the gearbox that we (Jaguar) have warranty liability for". Another school of thought is that the gearbox oil should be changed at 60,000 miles, however there are question marks associated with that concept. For starters there is usually not a drain plug so the oil needs to be vacuumed out. Then by measuring how much you have sucked out, you replace that same amount, but then there is a complex process of leaving it to stand on a level surface overnight, then bringing the gearbox to a specific temperature and removing the fill plug to top it up, until the new fluid just dribbles out of the fill plug. Then you are "good to go", but another level check is encouraged. Having gone to this effort, of course you can only remove around 50% of the contents of the gearbox oil fill, as there will be an amount in the oilways and torque converter that has not been removed and therefore you now have a mix of original and replacement fluids. Are they compatible? Unless your gearbox is showing any signs of lumpy operation, or sluggish changes, you may well consider it best to leave well alone, but it comes to personal choices after having done the research. Let us know what you decide. N6 JMX

Steve, just as an aside, I know no longer pertinent to your original question, but: a good turn out at an X150 seminar organised by the JEC last weekend. One of the key points related to oil services for the 5L V8. David Marks was the technical/ mechanical guru delivering the presentation His advice was that the single most important maintenance step for the engine was that annual or 6k miles oil replacement/service was not just recommended, but in his experience ,essential for the long and trouble free life of the engine. Further to the regime, critical too that the oil used is CASTROL EDGE PRO, 0-20W, which is specifically recommended for JLRV8 engines. This oil even if your filler cap states 5-20, as Jaguar later a made advisory that 0-20 is the recommended grade.

Hi all. I am having some issues trying to decipher which numbers I need to match for replacing my parking brake module. So far I have deduced that: the two letters at the end of the P/N do not matter. The S/W number needs to match Could people please correct me if I am wrong. Also I am unsure if the REV letter is critical (mine seems to be an 'E' after peeling off the green sticker). Any help and guidance is greatly appreciated. Tim

Hi guys... I usually use Facebook for that kind of things, but maybe someone over here will be able to help me.. I'm looking for a NS fender, front doors as well as the skirt I need to replace these.. Someone hit me and I don't want to go through the insurance if it's not needed.. Bg13nte Thank You

@N6 JMX amazing! Thank you so much. I’ll give them a ring! 👍

Hi Everyone Long time Jaguar lover and driver here, currently running a Jaguar 5.0l XF Portfolio, but I might, just might, be getting my hands on a XFR R100 in the near future. I'm sure life will be even more fun!

Update – we have received an offer for the XK8 and a deposit has been paid. So fingers crossed this will soon be with its new owner.

My wife has decided to sell her 1998 Jag XK8 convertible. It's in great shape, never driven in winter. Let me know if interested, and I'll get you some pictures. Thanks in advance, Duane

Hi Duane, you have found the Forum pages okay and if you scroll further down you will come to a Market Place section, where you can post in the "Jaguars For Sale" tab. N6 JMX

Someone on the American forum found another video for me. The trick is to use a combination of socket and extension, plus a flexible joint. Fixings are actually a threaded stud with a welded nut, so the whole thing unscrews as one piece. Hopefully, this should make the job do-able when I next have access to the ramp.

Hi 👋 have you found the parts yet?

Hi 👋 not sure if you've resolved the issues 🤔. Dealing with similar symptoms which I've had reason to suspect possible camshaft valve not seating. And oil 🛢 separator gasket. Hope this advice points 👉 👈 👇.

Hi 👋 I've always tighten to around 78 to 82 NM just to be safer.

Hello everyone, has anyone experienced vacuum leaking internally from camshafts valves? Have a 2.5 x type 👎 that's giving me the hissing. Seems the sound is coming 🤔 from the front top & front timing chain cover. Also the upper center oil 🛢 separator gasket. Which am guessing could be leaking. Has anyone had symptoms of failing 😕 IMT valves. Can't shake codes PO171/174. My accelerator pedal sensor definitely needs cleaning or replacing. However don't see how that's causing 🤔 codes. Any advice or direction very much appreciated 👍 🙂 😊.

Tried to fit the starter today but hit a problem. Got the car up on the ramp and removed the undertray, according to 'Topix' the starter motor on the V8 is only held on by two 'bolts' (they actually appear to be nuts ?) The V6 and diesel models are different. Bottom nut is clearly visible, it has a second nut attached that secures the earth lead. The top nut cannot be seen using any method that I have at my disposal. I can reach in and feel it, it's a 13 mm, but trying to get anything on it to loosen it is proving to be very awkward. Managed to get an 'S' shaped spanner onto it and managed to move it by a fraction but can't seem to get any of my 13 mm ratchet spanners onto it. Has anyone tackled this job who can provide any hints or tips ? Starter motor removal and refit.pdf

Hi Alexander, If you explore a little further down the pages of the Forum, you will find a "For Sale" section where your E-type for disposal would be better placed to find a potential buyer. It is currently in a section of the Forum where the addition of a new posting will take it off the front pages and very few folks will think to check the technical areas for a car that is for sale! I would also respectfully suggest that you need to be a bit clearer about the whereabouts of the location of both yourself and the car. Your profile information indicates that you are not in the UK, yet the car appears to have a UK registration plate. You also don't provide any information that might interest a potential buyer, i.e. does the car run, drive and stop, if not when was it last road legal. Information regarding number of previous owners, service record and other pertinent details will also help stimulate interest. Additionally, there is no method of getting to communicate with you, other than via an open forum, which is not an ideal medium to sell / buy a car so you may wish to consider how people contact you. Just some thoughts to consider. N6 JMX

i have been enjoying Jaguars for many years, this is actually my ninth Jaguar.