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Thank you for answering, l have tried but no luck, they dont even admit the part was ever made,the part is clearly visible on original shocks on flea bay

Finally managed to get time to fit the new starter today. No idea why I bothered, as ironically the car has started first time, every time for the last 2 weeks ! I can honestly say that extricating the top 'hidden' bolt is one of the most stressful car maintenance jobs that I have ever undertaken. It is a 13 mm headed bolt, not a 'stud / nut' like the lower one. Access is absolutely awful, you cannot even see it to get a spanner / socket on it. I managed to get about another half turn using an 's' shaped obstruction spanner and then after dozens of attempts, got a 13 mm 1/4 drive socket on it by attaching it to a 150 mm extension and a universal joint to clear the engine mounting. You have to basically feed the extension in down the side of the starter motor and then try to guide the socket onto the bolt head. I was then lucky enough to be able to undo it with another long 1/4 extension connected to the universal joint. So far, so good.................................. Then actually getting the starter motor out of the gap is another excercise in frustration. You have to twist and turn it at every angle imaginable to avoid damaging the oxygen sensor wires on the catalytic converter. Of course everything has sharp edges, wearing nitrile gloves is a waste of time, as they either split almost instantly or get cut to ribbons. My hands look like I have been attacked by angry cats. Once removed, you have to repeat the same process to get the new one back in place. The bottom stud is easy to get back in but the top bolt was hell on earth. Once again working blind and mostly by 'feel', it must have taken 30 attempts to get the bolt and the extension assembly into place, as there is no room to 'start' the bolt into the hole by hand. Using the same combination of extensions and the flexible joint allowed me to tighten it up for several turns, but it then became almost impossible. The bolt is approximately 50 mm long, so needs a lot of turns to get it tight enough to do the job. At this stage I was worried that I had managed to cross thread it, so had to call on the assistance of one of our technicians, who was doubt muttering '!Removed! amateurs' under his breath. He kindly had a look and had to undo the bolt to be able to check for any damage to the threads. Again, by a stroke of luck, the threads weren't damaged. He then had as much trouble as me trying to get the bolt / extension assembly back into place, when he did, the same problem occurred, seemed to be tightening up well, and then became very hard to turn. Only thing we could think was that the universal joint was now binding against the starter body as the bolt tightened. This resulted in him raiding everyones toolbox to try to find a different universal joint or alternative extension / socket combination. A different joint and a longer handled 1/4 ratchet allowed him to finally tighten the bolt, with much colourful language when he had to hold everything in place whilst one of the other technicians had to find an alternative ratchet to the first one he tried. I then finished up connecting the cables and made sure it would still start before refitting the undertray. Still starting first time, so no idea whether the new started has fixed anything or whether the fault has just 'gone to ground' for a while ? A couple of things have subsequently occurred to me: If doing it again (please, no !), I might be tempted to try a flexible extension drive, usually used for power screwdrivers. I have one the seems quite sturdy and allegedly rated for use with an impact driver. If I put a 13 mm 'nut driver' on the extension and then push it down the starter motor body, I wouldn't need a universal joint, as the extension itself will bend to clear the engine mount. By using the 13 mm 'S' spanner to get a couple of turns on the bolt to initially loosen it, the flexible extension won't be under as much strain when undoing it the rest of the way. The second thing that has been on my mind is the following: On my first attempt at the starter, I gave up and got on with replacing the headlamp washer pump instead. When I removed the wheel arch liner, one of the wires had come out of the plug going to the headlamp washer motor and was just 'floating' with a metal spade connector. The wires themselves also looked as though they had been trapped or damaged at some point, with some technical assistance, the spade connector was refitted to the plastic housing and the wires covered with insulating tape. I don't see how this could have any bearing on the intermittent 'non start' problem, but from that day, it has always started first time ?

Herb

Hi There all here free, all in PDF http://www.jagrepair.com/ which manuals are you actually after cheers Joe

My dads jag had died. Opened car (keyless) now both battery's have died can I get into the boot with key

Hi Neil, the symptoms you are experiencing are most likely caused by the battery in your XK. In a modern car, like your XK, the battery's ability to start the car is no longer the definitive that the battery is good, even if you have it fully charged. The reason for the faults appearing and reappearing is the spikes to the 12V system caused by an old or failing battery. If you fit a replacement battery, the faults will be cancelled and not reappear. Folks like me consider the battery in my car as a consumable with a life span of just 5 years. Beyond that age, the battery is not capable of sustaining the stable voltages that the car's electronic circuitry needs. N6 JMX

Thank you for taking the time to reply l have tried "DCR AutoParts" but they failed to reply to my email will certainly try the other you mentioned Best wishes mario

Hi All, Can anyone inform me of where the immobiliser is located on this Jaguar. Lost my fob and my Jag is parked in my garage - the key turns all the instruments on but won't fire up the engine so auto electrician suggested I disconnect immobiliser but cannot locate it. Rgds Bodsy

I have a 2003 jaguar S type with five speed manual transmission I am thinking about selling it but I cannot find another similar anywhere I know it is rare to have the manual transmission I just want to get an idea on the value of anyone can help I would appreciate it. thanks

I looked at my inbox, with nothing there.

Hi all, Recently purchased my first jag, the 2003 s-type 4.2L and im having an issue. after clearing up all the leaks and replacing aging hoses, ive come across an issue with the coolant temp as its reading -30 when engine is left over night. When engine is at temp, it only reaches 24deg, not enough to trigger the fan controls. is there some way to reset the value, ive already replaced the temp sensor and checked over the majority of the wiring at this point, pulling my hair out 🙂

Hello everyone, my first message on here, sorry if there is an existing thread already dedicated to this. I have a Jaguar XF R type 2020 and have had it for approximately a year. Out of the blue this week, the sound from the infotainment system has suddenly stopped. There is a clear connection and I can still connect Bluetooth etc but still no sound at all, radio, sat nav, voice control, sensor alarms, nothing at all. Furthermore, the volume switch will not move from level 12. I can still use the touchscreen/see the satnav but no sound at all. I have checked fuses, connections, reset, reconnected devices, restored factory setting etc but still no sound. If anybody has any advice to try and resolve, it really would be appreciated. I maybe resigned to a diagnostic and hoping of course my amp hasn’t blown but wanted to check if anybody had other (cheaper) suggestions. Many thanks everyone!

On removing the 2 fuel pumps from the vehicle I see that one has previously been repaired as it has wires crimped. The second seems to be original and has a black box between the fuel pump and the connector on the fuel tank. The previously replaced fuel pump does not have such a box fitted. Does anyone know what this does? Is it important and should both fuel pump have this black box fitted. Finally, is it possible get hold of new ones?

I also have an iCarsoft JLR code reader - all good with it so far but it has spent most of its time with me in my Honda CR-V due to a recurring knock sensor fault which has turned out to be something else.

Welcome aboard Adrian, lovely looking XKR there, first i think i've seen in white.

Thanks for he thoughts and advice, I'm still thinking about it, but there is a drain plug and a level screw that can be used to gauge the right amount has been put in. There are no issues with the auto transmission at present so I might just go for checking the level and topping it up if necessary. Then there is the question of what ATF fluid to use- I've seen somewhere that there are two types - one for earlier boxes and one for later models ...... so is mine an earlier or later box on a 2005 car? Any ideas? Thanks.

Best way is to check the flow using a garden hose. On any engine i prefer to remove the thermostat and refit the housing then remove the top hose from the rad and insert the garden hose into the top hose - usually a snug fit and then turn the hose on. This runs clean water backwards through the system, exiting from the rad top hose stub so gives a good reverse flush of the system. As a simple go/no-go test to see if it's blocked, run the engine up to temperature and once the 'stat opens, the top hose should be hot. Switch the engine off and use the palm of your hand to feel the temperature of the rad going from top to bottom. It should have a gradual reduction in temp as you get closer to the bottom hose, any sharp changes indicate there is probably a blockage around that place on the inside.

I've owned the car since 2020 an am a private seller. Feel free to contact me on 07464000535 if you have any queries or would like to discuss further. Thank you!

Thanks for the note Phil. I was actually at the seminar and heard the advice first hand. After David's description of how the cam followers work on the 5.0 I can absolutely appreciate why clean oil is so important. Suffice to say that I will be changing my oil annually from now on as I will never hit 6,000 miles in a single 12 month period. I hope you enjoyed the seminar as much as I did. It was also great meeting some of the other owners. Thanks again for the note, much appreciated.

I need to replace the gear selector trim on my 2002 XKR as its cracked in multiple places and falling apart. The part in my car is LNC 6195 AC UK with what looks to be a 2001 date code. The only part I can find on eBay that's not cracked or too scratched up is an LJA 6195 BE UK that looks to have a 1997 date code. It seems to me, based on the pictures, to be the exact same part as my LNC 6195 and appears to have the same mounting points and connectors. Does anyone know if they are interchangeable? Thanks in advance for any help.

now sold

I have owned this lovely XK8 for 15 years during which it has been well maintained and serviced with full history. It has a current MOT to 20/02/26. It is mechanically sound but the reactive cruise control requires a replacement module. Interior is in very good condition with a new headliner recently fitted. The wheels have recently been refurbished and the bodywork is in reasonable condition for the age of the car. Attention is required to the rear wheel arches. Looking for offers around £4,950 Please email me at [email protected] for more information and photos if interested.

Hi Fred Only 2 possibilities. It is either leaking: 1) externally, such as venting through the radiator cap as steam or through a leaking hose or radiator or heater core, all of which should be visible. 2) Internally, Either directly into the cylinder to be expelled through the exhaust, or into the lubrication system which should show as "mayonaise" in the oil. I would check the oil for signs of coolant (likewise coolant for signs of oil) and then recheck for leaks when standing still as that is a LOT to be losing without an external leak. Good luck John

Hi common place for water in the boot on S-types is above the rear lights, there a infill piece of rubber across the top of the lights, its very common leak. usually fix is remove the lights and clean it all up, then reseal the upper rubber seal on the light with some silicone and that cures it cheers Joe