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Hi Jim The cylinder numbering I find very confusing but the diagram I have shows bank-1 (driver side) front cly to be number-1 then working backwards 3-5-7 . then bank-2 (passenger) starts with number-2 at the front and 4-6-8 as you work back. With you mentioning mixing the clys up I have pulled off the plastic cover and looked down towards the coil packs and the second one back from the front bank-2 appears to have a shiny new black coil pack where as the rest are all dusty grey but according to the diagram I'm looking at should be number 4 not number 2 this leads me to question which cly has the new injector that was suppose to be cly 6. Looks like it's time to give up on the dealer sorting it and crack on with replacing the lot at my own expense not what I purchased it for as my original plan was a X100 but decide against another long term project car in favour of a car to drive. Now that seems to have come back to slap me a good un around the chops. Pete.

Hi S-type Driver, are you sure the water ingress is "new", i.e. since you have had it standing outside in your ownership and not water that was already in the well when you acquired the car? Dry out the well and surrounding area and leave it to stand as before, but this time coat the whole of the boot seal with a light dusting of chalk powder. Alternatively, try a smoke generator placed inside the boot with the boot lid closed. It may simply be a case of the boot seal has lost some of its elasticity and needs a bit of packing. Ed China fixed a poor seal on the door of an Aston Martin by packing a new piece of rubber inside the existing door seal. N6 JMX

Hi Geoff, this is one of those "piece of string" questions, without a definitive answer. It is compounded by the Jaguar indication that the gearbox is "sealed for life", although the cynics amongst us would say that hidden in the small print of this indication is "sealed for the life of the gearbox that we (Jaguar) have warranty liability for". Another school of thought is that the gearbox oil should be changed at 60,000 miles, however there are question marks associated with that concept. For starters there is usually not a drain plug so the oil needs to be vacuumed out. Then by measuring how much you have sucked out, you replace that same amount, but then there is a complex process of leaving it to stand on a level surface overnight, then bringing the gearbox to a specific temperature and removing the fill plug to top it up, until the new fluid just dribbles out of the fill plug. Then you are "good to go", but another level check is encouraged. Having gone to this effort, of course you can only remove around 50% of the contents of the gearbox oil fill, as there will be an amount in the oilways and torque converter that has not been removed and therefore you now have a mix of original and replacement fluids. Are they compatible? Unless your gearbox is showing any signs of lumpy operation, or sluggish changes, you may well consider it best to leave well alone, but it comes to personal choices after having done the research. Let us know what you decide. N6 JMX

Strange

Steve, just as an aside, I know no longer pertinent to your original question, but: a good turn out at an X150 seminar organised by the JEC last weekend. One of the key points related to oil services for the 5L V8. David Marks was the technical/ mechanical guru delivering the presentation His advice was that the single most important maintenance step for the engine was that annual or 6k miles oil replacement/service was not just recommended, but in his experience ,essential for the long and trouble free life of the engine. Further to the regime, critical too that the oil used is CASTROL EDGE PRO, 0-20W, which is specifically recommended for JLRV8 engines. This oil even if your filler cap states 5-20, as Jaguar later a made advisory that 0-20 is the recommended grade.

Hi all. I am having some issues trying to decipher which numbers I need to match for replacing my parking brake module. So far I have deduced that: the two letters at the end of the P/N do not matter. The S/W number needs to match Could people please correct me if I am wrong. Also I am unsure if the REV letter is critical (mine seems to be an 'E' after peeling off the green sticker). Any help and guidance is greatly appreciated. Tim

Hi guys... I usually use Facebook for that kind of things, but maybe someone over here will be able to help me.. I'm looking for a NS fender, front doors as well as the skirt I need to replace these.. Someone hit me and I don't want to go through the insurance if it's not needed.. Bg13nte Thank You

@N6 JMX amazing! Thank you so much. I’ll give them a ring! 👍

Hi Everyone Long time Jaguar lover and driver here, currently running a Jaguar 5.0l XF Portfolio, but I might, just might, be getting my hands on a XFR R100 in the near future. I'm sure life will be even more fun!

Update – we have received an offer for the XK8 and a deposit has been paid. So fingers crossed this will soon be with its new owner.

My wife has decided to sell her 1998 Jag XK8 convertible. It's in great shape, never driven in winter. Let me know if interested, and I'll get you some pictures. Thanks in advance, Duane

Hi Duane, you have found the Forum pages okay and if you scroll further down you will come to a Market Place section, where you can post in the "Jaguars For Sale" tab. N6 JMX

Someone on the American forum found another video for me. The trick is to use a combination of socket and extension, plus a flexible joint. Fixings are actually a threaded stud with a welded nut, so the whole thing unscrews as one piece. Hopefully, this should make the job do-able when I next have access to the ramp.

Hi 👋 have you found the parts yet?

Hi 👋 not sure if you've resolved the issues 🤔. Dealing with similar symptoms which I've had reason to suspect possible camshaft valve not seating. And oil 🛢 separator gasket. Hope this advice points 👉 👈 👇.

Hi 👋 I've always tighten to around 78 to 82 NM just to be safer.

Hello everyone, has anyone experienced vacuum leaking internally from camshafts valves? Have a 2.5 x type 👎 that's giving me the hissing. Seems the sound is coming 🤔 from the front top & front timing chain cover. Also the upper center oil 🛢 separator gasket. Which am guessing could be leaking. Has anyone had symptoms of failing 😕 IMT valves. Can't shake codes PO171/174. My accelerator pedal sensor definitely needs cleaning or replacing. However don't see how that's causing 🤔 codes. Any advice or direction very much appreciated 👍 🙂 😊.

Tried to fit the starter today but hit a problem. Got the car up on the ramp and removed the undertray, according to 'Topix' the starter motor on the V8 is only held on by two 'bolts' (they actually appear to be nuts ?) The V6 and diesel models are different. Bottom nut is clearly visible, it has a second nut attached that secures the earth lead. The top nut cannot be seen using any method that I have at my disposal. I can reach in and feel it, it's a 13 mm, but trying to get anything on it to loosen it is proving to be very awkward. Managed to get an 'S' shaped spanner onto it and managed to move it by a fraction but can't seem to get any of my 13 mm ratchet spanners onto it. Has anyone tackled this job who can provide any hints or tips ? Starter motor removal and refit.pdf

Hi Alexander, If you explore a little further down the pages of the Forum, you will find a "For Sale" section where your E-type for disposal would be better placed to find a potential buyer. It is currently in a section of the Forum where the addition of a new posting will take it off the front pages and very few folks will think to check the technical areas for a car that is for sale! I would also respectfully suggest that you need to be a bit clearer about the whereabouts of the location of both yourself and the car. Your profile information indicates that you are not in the UK, yet the car appears to have a UK registration plate. You also don't provide any information that might interest a potential buyer, i.e. does the car run, drive and stop, if not when was it last road legal. Information regarding number of previous owners, service record and other pertinent details will also help stimulate interest. Additionally, there is no method of getting to communicate with you, other than via an open forum, which is not an ideal medium to sell / buy a car so you may wish to consider how people contact you. Just some thoughts to consider. N6 JMX

i have been enjoying Jaguars for many years, this is actually my ninth Jaguar.

thanks for the reply's, i will order one.

Thanks joe-dot-com. Am still a bit wary of stripping down the headlamp unit or cooking it in the oven so for the sake of a few hundred quid would be nice to have a backup when I inevitably get it wrong. Tempted to just wait until the MOT is due in December so a local garage can point, laugh and charge me a fortune

I have to admit, it was quite far gone I think most sane people would’ve called it a day but sometimes a car is valued more sentimentally than financially. Mechanically the S Types seem quite robust so I think providing I can keep up with the rust it will live on for a few more years. I’m currently torn between getting an X Type or another S Type to replace my main car with, perhaps a later model than the one I have with a few more toys.

Thank you Joe..hope your wrong but will have the shockers looked at...

I'm looking to have this restored asap. Needs new sills, floors and detailing of body condition & minor rust spots, Conolising/mending leather. fresh set of carpets. Then bare metal respray (maroon) & check chrome wires. Any advice?