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very interesting topic, i bought a XKR 150 2 months ago and did notice a small problem like this, as a matter of interest, what grade of fuel should i be using, i have been using 98 octane.

Got everything sorted thanks to JustBadly pointing me at the plastic bits needed to make the headlights work....thanks to all who joined the thread. Kevin.

Hi, Just noticed that recently at around 80MPH the front end seems to become a bit floaty..if you catch my drift, could this be track rod end problem? any suggestions greatly appreciated.. thanks, Kevin

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This is the workshop image of the fuel tank and fuel filler pipe on the X150 model. If you open the image and zoom in, you will see that the vapour pipe from the fuel tank to the filler head, connects to the filler head in the funnel element of the assembly. If you don't fully insert the fuel pump nozzle into the filler head, then the outcome should be obvious. The standard petrol pump choke back pressure is normally set VERY low so as to prevent fuel spillage onto the forecourt and across folks paintwork. N6 JMX

Hi. My 1992 Xjs Facelift has the Sport Pack fitted. Does this make the steering heavier at low speed and give a harsher ride? Your thoughts please. Thanks.

Oh indeed we are, but your comment was “in all of these cases”, which to me seems rather prescriptive? And, by the way, doesn’t actually help the OP very much with his question, does it?

The manual steering sensor reset didn't appear to help so I have it going to an import specialist tomorrow. Unfortunately (or maybe not), the nearest Jaguar dealer is nearly 3 hours away so I'll try this first.

Still waiting for my starter motor to arrive !

Yes, you do have to drop the bumper, but in my case it only actually takes about 20 minutes to remove, will attach some pics of where the screws are, to remove the bumper. bumper removal.doc cheers Joe

Hi Philip, we are each entitled to believe what we want. My experience has shown that it is not the fault of the car. N6 JMX

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Let us know how it goes, I have thought about doing it several times, then lazyness has taken over. My bulbs need changing, a bit dim, like me, So I don't use the car at night.

Thanks JOE-DOT-COM Wanted to check before I go for the old "Spanner with a Hammer" technique. Suspected it could be a bit more involved so am going to have a try with your idea first. Have never tried cooking a headlamp assembly so will update this thread after the fire brigade have put it out. Might take a while 🤣 Before I do, is it true you need to drop the front bumper to get the headlamp unit out? Sorry but its my first time working on these big monsters as my current V8 is a '68 Daimler that's really easy to mend

Anyone? Someone must have retrofitted a heated steering wheel to there XF, and activated it themselves.

Sorry, but really cannot agree with you based on my personal experience. So, each of 4 filling stations in my home town has "incorrectly" calibrated pumps? That, despite, successful fill ups on the same pump with our other petrol fuelled vehicles? Or, the same filling stations (one of two with 98 octane which I use), filling the XKR successfully on occasions, but the next time, the problem recurs ? It appears from numerous posts on various Jag forums that this is a relatively common issue, not confined to the XK range, and no-one has come up with a "universal" fix. My own experience remains, that its much more likely to occur when the car hasn't been frequently used, and tends to sort itself out once wee start driving them again That has certainly been my experience with my last 2 XKRs.

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Hi, All! New to this forum due to having recently been sold an X-Type by a family member for £300 with MOT until January 2026 - uncle got the dreaded glow plug light and “gearbox fault” after he had the dpf removed. Being mechanically minded I decided to take a look whilst I borrowed the car. After about a week he said I can have it for £300, so I managed to narrow down the problem to the Turbo actuator, the control arm for the vanes is as free as fresh air in the countryside. I opened up the actuator to find one of the small wires to be loose - the usual culprits near the connector to the worm gear. Upon scraping away the silvering for the weld i managed to nick the one next to it so decided to scrape down to the copper on both wires and place a new wire on both, so 4 copper pads with a small wire bridging the 2 pairs. Obviously I’ve added extra length to allow for expansion under the heat. Results are: The glow plug light has gone (or hasnt showed up so far) but the auto box somehow hangs in 3rd whilst accelerating up to about 3000 rpm (not exactly hard acceleration either - just as I’m joining a motorway and such) and forcing me to upshift myself using sport mode then putting back into standard. And also at lower speeds (under 30) it feels as if the car is trying to shift up but doesnt quite get there so can judder a little until I put my foot down to force it to shift. Now my question is… does the ECU have to relearn to drive after being disconnected from the battery? If so, how long will that take? As I’ve already done around 50 miles since the battery had been reconnected. Any thoughts? 2009 X-Type 2.2D Automatic

I have a 2005 S Type 2.5V6, it is a Japanese import and today has covered 39k miles. last Autumn after leaving the car at an airport for a week or so during the drive home the car went into restricted mode and had a misfire. Garage said water had got into the plugs somehow, so these were changed and all was ok, then the dreaded warning light came on with a P0420 code. Garage told me it was the catalytic converter, drivers side that needs replacing. I tried cleaners and E5 fuel but the light kept coming on. bizarrely the car has now passed its MOT with the warning light still on, another garage has changed one of the lamda sensors and has now done a diagnostic test, this showed both cats ‘pulsing’, they’re going to do a smoke test this week to check for air leaks does anyone have any ideas please? Is it likely that both cats have failed? If they have what should I do? best Julian

Hi Peter, so if it was replaced in 2019, it is now in the consideration zone of needing to be changed (5 and a half years old), irrespective of what a garage tester says. Your choice, continue to experience problems generated by a battery not providing the stable voltage the sensitive electronics in the vehicle require, or change the battery and eliminate that issue for peace of mind. Only you can make the choice. N6 JMX

I have a V8 1999 XJ. The auto works well enough but will not kick down. I understand there is a sensor on the carboration system that operates the kick down electronically. Could this sensor be at fault, please? Many thanks

Hi N6 JMX The battery is not the original. I was told by Jag Dealer that they apparently managed to blow original when testing it in Sept 2019 although there is no mention of this on the invoice. As it tested very recently as ok by an independent Jag service agent I’m wondering if this is a software problem? Has anyone here experienced this? Peter

Hi If you want to do a Proper job, not a Bodge Job, then you can buy the adjusters off ebay, the normal S-type adjusters will do, as theres only one that breaks in each headlight and that the same in the normal headlights. but you do have to take the headlight off and split them, does not take that long did mine in a few hours. lots of videos on youtube on how to split the lights, but if you put them in the oven for 10 minutes on about 90 Deg C, it softens the black sealant, its like blutac but black, makes it go soft and the lenses come off quite easy done a few of them and its not bad, the only thing you must remember, is to disconnect the battery before unplugging the headlights, or your self leveling lights will stop working and can only be reset with software like jaguar ids/sdd or a tool like icarsoft LR V2 cheers Joe

Hi Ryan, check out the site for Mr12Volt at the safe link below. Mr12Volt Car Interface N6 JMX