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Hi, All! New to this forum due to having recently been sold an X-Type by a family member for £300 with MOT until January 2026 - uncle got the dreaded glow plug light and “gearbox fault” after he had the dpf removed. Being mechanically minded I decided to take a look whilst I borrowed the car. After about a week he said I can have it for £300, so I managed to narrow down the problem to the Turbo actuator, the control arm for the vanes is as free as fresh air in the countryside. I opened up the actuator to find one of the small wires to be loose - the usual culprits near the connector to the worm gear. Upon scraping away the silvering for the weld i managed to nick the one next to it so decided to scrape down to the copper on both wires and place a new wire on both, so 4 copper pads with a small wire bridging the 2 pairs. Obviously I’ve added extra length to allow for expansion under the heat. Results are: The glow plug light has gone (or hasnt showed up so far) but the auto box somehow hangs in 3rd whilst accelerating up to about 3000 rpm (not exactly hard acceleration either - just as I’m joining a motorway and such) and forcing me to upshift myself using sport mode then putting back into standard. And also at lower speeds (under 30) it feels as if the car is trying to shift up but doesnt quite get there so can judder a little until I put my foot down to force it to shift. Now my question is… does the ECU have to relearn to drive after being disconnected from the battery? If so, how long will that take? As I’ve already done around 50 miles since the battery had been reconnected. Any thoughts? 2009 X-Type 2.2D Automatic

I have a 2005 S Type 2.5V6, it is a Japanese import and today has covered 39k miles. last Autumn after leaving the car at an airport for a week or so during the drive home the car went into restricted mode and had a misfire. Garage said water had got into the plugs somehow, so these were changed and all was ok, then the dreaded warning light came on with a P0420 code. Garage told me it was the catalytic converter, drivers side that needs replacing. I tried cleaners and E5 fuel but the light kept coming on. bizarrely the car has now passed its MOT with the warning light still on, another garage has changed one of the lamda sensors and has now done a diagnostic test, this showed both cats ‘pulsing’, they’re going to do a smoke test this week to check for air leaks does anyone have any ideas please? Is it likely that both cats have failed? If they have what should I do? best Julian

Hi Peter, so if it was replaced in 2019, it is now in the consideration zone of needing to be changed (5 and a half years old), irrespective of what a garage tester says. Your choice, continue to experience problems generated by a battery not providing the stable voltage the sensitive electronics in the vehicle require, or change the battery and eliminate that issue for peace of mind. Only you can make the choice. N6 JMX

I have a V8 1999 XJ. The auto works well enough but will not kick down. I understand there is a sensor on the carboration system that operates the kick down electronically. Could this sensor be at fault, please? Many thanks

Hi N6 JMX The battery is not the original. I was told by Jag Dealer that they apparently managed to blow original when testing it in Sept 2019 although there is no mention of this on the invoice. As it tested very recently as ok by an independent Jag service agent I’m wondering if this is a software problem? Has anyone here experienced this? Peter

Hi If you want to do a Proper job, not a Bodge Job, then you can buy the adjusters off ebay, the normal S-type adjusters will do, as theres only one that breaks in each headlight and that the same in the normal headlights. but you do have to take the headlight off and split them, does not take that long did mine in a few hours. lots of videos on youtube on how to split the lights, but if you put them in the oven for 10 minutes on about 90 Deg C, it softens the black sealant, its like blutac but black, makes it go soft and the lenses come off quite easy done a few of them and its not bad, the only thing you must remember, is to disconnect the battery before unplugging the headlights, or your self leveling lights will stop working and can only be reset with software like jaguar ids/sdd or a tool like icarsoft LR V2 cheers Joe

Hi Ryan, check out the site for Mr12Volt at the safe link below. Mr12Volt Car Interface N6 JMX

I have Bi-Xenons on both sides and it works fine!

Have just bought and am slowly doing up a 2005 STR. It has the well known droopy headlight issue on the passenger side and after a bit of googling am told you can fix it by inserting a screw in the right place. I'm not convinced and don't want to start drilling holes in my new pride and joy if its just usual internet BS. Has anyone tried this? Does it work? I suspect it doesn't

Hi guys, I’m new to this forum! And would like to ask is it even in the realm of possibility to upgrade my head unit to interface with the existing meridian sound system with an apple CarPlay/android auto system? Because I’ve asked about and been told no one would touch it etc my mechanic said it was possible but options are limited thank you for reading hopefully get a response!

Hi Peter, sorry but it really is time to invest in a replacement battery - see all the reasons in the above thread. If your battery is original - Jaguar sticker in place - it is well past its best. N6 JMX

I’ve had the battery checked - it’s OK, but about 1/2 charged. Garage charged it for me. Still getting message battery low please charge engine. Help!!

Hi Folks, in all of these cases the fault does not lie with the car but the petrol pumps which have their choke cut off pressure set too low. The fault should be notified to the attendant in order that he can log it as a fault for rectification during the next pump maintenance cycle. I appreciate it is frustrating and that their are some "apparent" tricks to circumvent the isue, but believe me, this is a well researched issue and it is always the pump at fault. N6 JMX

Thank you for the information. Just bought a beautiful XK 2011. And she is having the same issue, and she had pretty much set for 2 years.

Great suggestion, thanks!

Hi Steve, unless there is a fault developing in the steering rack, which is unlikely, I would jack up the front end and undertake the lock to lock reset with nil load on the front end to see if that makes any difference. If the steering position sensor goes, then the input feeling is very different. The turn in feels light and there is no self centring return, i.e. you need to manually rotate the steering wheel back to the straight ahead position. Whilst the front end is off the ground, check the play in bearings and bushes just to be sure. Otherwise, enjoy the wonderful world of Jaguar motoring. N6 JMX

I recently acquired a base V6 coupe (it does have a 6-speed manual if that matters). The car runs great but I do feel something isn't right with the steering. Intermittently there is some stickiness to the steering when I turn left. When turning to the right (at any speed) it is smooth and linear. When I turn to the left, however, the steering seems hard and stiff momentarily when turning in off center. After that it does seem to come back to normal, but it is disconcerting. I checked the normal basics like tire pressures, PS fluid (clean and full), and tire wear is even so it doesn't appear to be an alignment issue. I read somewhere that turning the steering wheel from lock to lock a few times in accessory mode can reset the steering position sensor. That wasn't easy since the car doesn't have power steering in acc mode, but I did it on a gravel road for less friction. However, there was no change. Does anyone have any other thoughts about what could be causing this? Is it normal? Do I have an impending expensive repair to worry about? Thanks!

My car alarm started going off for no apparent reason. After much investigation and browsing online, I was able to trace the problem to the passenger side read door when the fault went hard. The door closed micro switch not working giving a red light and details on the dash. Eventually I found information online that showed the connections to the generic control unit under drivers side dash. The Green connector pin 15 is the signal wire from pax rear door. It was not going to earth when the door was closed. My solution (to avoid replacing the door locking assembly) was to solder a wire to the wire going to pin 15 and connect it to earth(negative). Alarm is working normally and other 3 doors give open indications on dash. My information gives:: Green pin 18 going to drivers side rear door. RH Rear door switch Blue Pin 21 to bonnet sw White Pin 21 to LH Front door switch. White Pin 22 to RH Front door switch. I hope this info helps someone but cannot guarantee info 100% However it has sorted my problem

Just purchased a 2015 F-Type boyhood dream 😊 was told carplay was available but I can seem to access even with cable? Any advice please

I have had this problem off and on in almost three years. First it was warped front discs, had them skimmed which gave a marked improvement. About 12 months later same problem, this time discs and pads replaced, again marked improvement. Recently feedback on brake pedal and steering gave the impression of brake problem again which really pi**ed me off. The car has passed its MOT with no problem. I went back to my mechanic conveying my frustration, he identified a problem with front upper suspension arm, I told him to replace both n/s and o/s. What a difference the braking and steering is so smooth, like a new car 😊 thought i would share in case anyone else has a similar problem.

Hi did you ever get this problem resolved?

Thank you ! I have just ordered a replacement starter motor, will see what happens once it is fitted.

Hi Jim, An excellent and likely diagnosis of the cause. I'm grateful to you. I am encouraged in that there are no messages on the on board computer which is not slow in coming foreward on just about every possible topic - except this one !! So if it is real, cannot be serious. The car is running fantastically well, recently serviced plus gearbox with new sump pan etc., I usually achieve on a run of mixed roads 32 - 34 mpg, as shown on the onboard computer. Thanks again Jim, Kind regards Dominic

Drunk

Fascinating and helpful to see the issues that F Pace owners have had. My 3 litre diesel 2018 had bottom end failure at 64, 000 miles . Have been looking at scrap/new engine/recon engine. Was offered second hand but not going to take a chance. My concern is after spending £8,000 on recon engine or £15,000 plus on new I could have another expensive failure on car worth £16,000. I wish I had known about bottom end failure problems. I have been quoted £5300 to buy car as it is with bottom end failure