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Hi common place for water in the boot on S-types is above the rear lights, there a infill piece of rubber across the top of the lights, its very common leak. usually fix is remove the lights and clean it all up, then reseal the upper rubber seal on the light with some silicone and that cures it cheers Joe

Milk

hi I have an s type 2.7 tdi 2007/8 my coolant just disappears, uses about a gallon of water on a 50 mile run, now there are no puddles under the car, there's no steam nothing to indicate where its going, i put a new radiator cap on and drove it 25 miles and all seemed fine except when i turned the engine off the auxiliary pump kicked in and the water level dropped to below minimum, any ideas what is going on

Cream

Many years back a lot of mechanics were caught out by the firing order on the XJ6 engine. Bizarre as it was, the number 1 cylinder was at the back of the engine and the cylinders then ran to number 6 cylinder being at the front of the engine. Urban myth is that the original blueprints were upside down when the engine was manufactured - how true that is I'm not sure but it did cause many problems for years to come. So, quite possibly the incorrect cylinder location could be a possibility - easily diagnosed by swapping components from the affected cylinder to another one and see if the fault replicates there - this also proves it to be either an injector or ignition fault rather than being the cylinder at fault (e.g. compression, etc) Also if the misfire is current when testing an infra-red temperature gauge can read temperatures on each cylinder and the one(s) that are reading lower temperature are possibly the location of the misfiring cylinder

Hi N6JMX, Thanks for getting back to me, there was a small amount of water in the boot when I got the car but over the last few days it has filled up considerably about and inch worth of water in the wheel well. The smoke machine is a good shout, never thought of that, I knew there was a reason for having one 😆 I have heard that the boot seals can get dirt underneath them which creates a wicking effect and can lead to water ingress although having pulled the seal back there’s evidence of previous silicone which would suggest a different issue. I think I’ll remove the seal and soak it in the bath, and refit it with some silicone sealant after treating the rust that’s forming on the pinch welds and see if that makes any difference. Cameron

Brew (1967)

Hi Jim The cylinder numbering I find very confusing but the diagram I have shows bank-1 (driver side) front cly to be number-1 then working backwards 3-5-7 . then bank-2 (passenger) starts with number-2 at the front and 4-6-8 as you work back. With you mentioning mixing the clys up I have pulled off the plastic cover and looked down towards the coil packs and the second one back from the front bank-2 appears to have a shiny new black coil pack where as the rest are all dusty grey but according to the diagram I'm looking at should be number 4 not number 2 this leads me to question which cly has the new injector that was suppose to be cly 6. Looks like it's time to give up on the dealer sorting it and crack on with replacing the lot at my own expense not what I purchased it for as my original plan was a X100 but decide against another long term project car in favour of a car to drive. Now that seems to have come back to slap me a good un around the chops. Pete.

Hi Peter, when a misfire occurs there should normally be stored codes (DTC) that can be read by a suitable OBD code reader - diagnostic system. Ideally, this should either be the Jaguar Diagnostics or the Auto Logic system. These codes are key to fault finding on a Modern XK. If the fault is intermittent and one coil pack and injector has already been replaced, there could well be a waterfall effect for other coil packs and / or injectors - they are all of the same vintage of course. As an aside, if your mechanic is not familiar with Jaguar's numbering, he may well have replaced the incorrect offending parts in the wrong location. The following info is from the Workshop Manual: References to Bank-1 and Bank-2: References to Bank-1 and Bank-2 are made with regard to the engine. When viewed from the flywheel the right-hand bank will be Bank-1 and the left-hand bank will be Bank-2. Cylinder numbering: The cylinders in each bank are numbered from 1 to 4, with number 1 at the front. Comment: from this, which is cylinder number 2 or 6? Requires additional definition In other words, have the correct parts been replaced in the correct locations? Another possible cause of a misfire is a vacuum leak, which can be notoriously difficult to locate, but a smoke test of the pipework could show up a possible leak for investigation. Hope this helps with the fault finding. N6 JMX

Hi S-type Driver, are you sure the water ingress is "new", i.e. since you have had it standing outside in your ownership and not water that was already in the well when you acquired the car? Dry out the well and surrounding area and leave it to stand as before, but this time coat the whole of the boot seal with a light dusting of chalk powder. Alternatively, try a smoke generator placed inside the boot with the boot lid closed. It may simply be a case of the boot seal has lost some of its elasticity and needs a bit of packing. Ed China fixed a poor seal on the door of an Aston Martin by packing a new piece of rubber inside the existing door seal. N6 JMX

Hi Geoff, this is one of those "piece of string" questions, without a definitive answer. It is compounded by the Jaguar indication that the gearbox is "sealed for life", although the cynics amongst us would say that hidden in the small print of this indication is "sealed for the life of the gearbox that we (Jaguar) have warranty liability for". Another school of thought is that the gearbox oil should be changed at 60,000 miles, however there are question marks associated with that concept. For starters there is usually not a drain plug so the oil needs to be vacuumed out. Then by measuring how much you have sucked out, you replace that same amount, but then there is a complex process of leaving it to stand on a level surface overnight, then bringing the gearbox to a specific temperature and removing the fill plug to top it up, until the new fluid just dribbles out of the fill plug. Then you are "good to go", but another level check is encouraged. Having gone to this effort, of course you can only remove around 50% of the contents of the gearbox oil fill, as there will be an amount in the oilways and torque converter that has not been removed and therefore you now have a mix of original and replacement fluids. Are they compatible? Unless your gearbox is showing any signs of lumpy operation, or sluggish changes, you may well consider it best to leave well alone, but it comes to personal choices after having done the research. Let us know what you decide. N6 JMX

Hi all, I have recently picked up another S Type with only 14,000 miles on the clock. I have had it parked outside the last few days and have noticed the spare wheel well is filling up with water and getting under the battery tray, i believe it is coming from the main boot seal. I have poured water all around the boot seal with a watering can but I can’t see any obvious signs of water ingress, any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Cameron

Good morning folks. Could anyone tell me how often the Auto Gearbox fluid should be changed? My car has REALLY low miles - it has only done just over 25,000 miles now. I wanted to know if it will need changing - and how difficult it is to do that. Although it is only low mileage, the fluid in the auto box is now 20 years old. Many thanks for any advice and help.

Strange

Steve, just as an aside, I know no longer pertinent to your original question, but: a good turn out at an X150 seminar organised by the JEC last weekend. One of the key points related to oil services for the 5L V8. David Marks was the technical/ mechanical guru delivering the presentation His advice was that the single most important maintenance step for the engine was that annual or 6k miles oil replacement/service was not just recommended, but in his experience ,essential for the long and trouble free life of the engine. Further to the regime, critical too that the oil used is CASTROL EDGE PRO, 0-20W, which is specifically recommended for JLRV8 engines. This oil even if your filler cap states 5-20, as Jaguar later a made advisory that 0-20 is the recommended grade.

I'm starting to loose faith with my 2010 XK which I brought 6 months ago as I seem to be plagued by a recurring issue with a misfire and reduced performance message. The dealer I purchased it from gave a 3 month warranty and used a local garage to do all their warranty work I thought it was a safe bet. When the problem first happened they had the car checked it out deleted the faults and returned it saying "It seem ok" I will add that even thou it was misfiring and running rough when I booked it in by time I took it to the garage it was running perfect again. So weeks went by with no problem but I hardly drove it in that time then we set of on 300 mile round trip to Norfolk got there no problem set off home and the misfire is back, pulled up plugged in the Topdom cleared the faults and away we go only for it to return 20 mins later. Stopped at a service station contemplating the AA to start it up and drive 120 miles home with no problem. Booked it back in at the garage to be told there's nothing wrong so left it with them for a few days to run about in till the fault reappeared which it didn't all they manage to do was send it back looking like the back of a farmers landrover so it won't be going back to that place again. After a few weeks it reappeared the dealer now long past my warranty period suggested a local Jag specialist to do a diagnostic check which they said showed, coil pack 2 faulty and injector 6 faulty and a quote for £1100 to sort. the dealer suggest I return the car so their in house mechanic can do the work and threw in a new set of plugs and it wouldn't cost me. Great we finally sorted but no a week later and it's miss firing again and I had only drove a few miles. I've contacted the mechanic who said he will have a talk with his boss as he wants the car right but I think the boss is losing interest as I've had the car 6 month and it's looking like an expensive job. Has anyone had similar misfire problems or any idea as I now own a very pretty ornament on the front which I just don't trust to drive anymore. Pete.

Alien

Grey

Hi all. I am having some issues trying to decipher which numbers I need to match for replacing my parking brake module. So far I have deduced that: the two letters at the end of the P/N do not matter. The S/W number needs to match Could people please correct me if I am wrong. Also I am unsure if the REV letter is critical (mine seems to be an 'E' after peeling off the green sticker). Any help and guidance is greatly appreciated. Tim

Hi guys... I usually use Facebook for that kind of things, but maybe someone over here will be able to help me.. I'm looking for a NS fender, front doors as well as the skirt I need to replace these.. Someone hit me and I don't want to go through the insurance if it's not needed.. Bg13nte Thank You

Squirrel

Rodent

@N6 JMX amazing! Thank you so much. I’ll give them a ring! 👍

Hi Everyone Long time Jaguar lover and driver here, currently running a Jaguar 5.0l XF Portfolio, but I might, just might, be getting my hands on a XFR R100 in the near future. I'm sure life will be even more fun!

Hi Caio, if a replacement engine is now the thinking, then I suggest you speak with a Dave Roche at DCR AutoParts, who specialise in new and used replacements for the X100 (your model). You can find Dave's details at the safe link below: DCR AutoParts - Independent Jaguar Parts and Accessories Specialist Alternatively, there are specialist breakers for Jaguars such as Auto Reserve. N6 JMX