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Steve, just as an aside, I know no longer pertinent to your original question, but: a good turn out at an X150 seminar organised by the JEC last weekend. One of the key points related to oil services for the 5L V8. David Marks was the technical/ mechanical guru delivering the presentation His advice was that the single most important maintenance step for the engine was that annual or 6k miles oil replacement/service was not just recommended, but in his experience ,essential for the long and trouble free life of the engine. Further to the regime, critical too that the oil used is CASTROL EDGE PRO, 0-20W, which is specifically recommended for JLRV8 engines. This oil even if your filler cap states 5-20, as Jaguar later a made advisory that 0-20 is the recommended grade.

I'm starting to loose faith with my 2010 XK which I brought 6 months ago as I seem to be plagued by a recurring issue with a misfire and reduced performance message. The dealer I purchased it from gave a 3 month warranty and used a local garage to do all their warranty work I thought it was a safe bet. When the problem first happened they had the car checked it out deleted the faults and returned it saying "It seem ok" I will add that even thou it was misfiring and running rough when I booked it in by time I took it to the garage it was running perfect again. So weeks went by with no problem but I hardly drove it in that time then we set of on 300 mile round trip to Norfolk got there no problem set off home and the misfire is back, pulled up plugged in the Topdom cleared the faults and away we go only for it to return 20 mins later. Stopped at a service station contemplating the AA to start it up and drive 120 miles home with no problem. Booked it back in at the garage to be told there's nothing wrong so left it with them for a few days to run about in till the fault reappeared which it didn't all they manage to do was send it back looking like the back of a farmers landrover so it won't be going back to that place again. After a few weeks it reappeared the dealer now long past my warranty period suggested a local Jag specialist to do a diagnostic check which they said showed, coil pack 2 faulty and injector 6 faulty and a quote for £1100 to sort. the dealer suggest I return the car so their in house mechanic can do the work and threw in a new set of plugs and it wouldn't cost me. Great we finally sorted but no a week later and it's miss firing again and I had only drove a few miles. I've contacted the mechanic who said he will have a talk with his boss as he wants the car right but I think the boss is losing interest as I've had the car 6 month and it's looking like an expensive job. Has anyone had similar misfire problems or any idea as I now own a very pretty ornament on the front which I just don't trust to drive anymore. Pete.

Alien

Grey

Hi all. I am having some issues trying to decipher which numbers I need to match for replacing my parking brake module. So far I have deduced that: the two letters at the end of the P/N do not matter. The S/W number needs to match Could people please correct me if I am wrong. Also I am unsure if the REV letter is critical (mine seems to be an 'E' after peeling off the green sticker). Any help and guidance is greatly appreciated. Tim

Hi guys... I usually use Facebook for that kind of things, but maybe someone over here will be able to help me.. I'm looking for a NS fender, front doors as well as the skirt I need to replace these.. Someone hit me and I don't want to go through the insurance if it's not needed.. Bg13nte Thank You

Squirrel

Rodent

@N6 JMX amazing! Thank you so much. I’ll give them a ring! 👍

Hi Everyone Long time Jaguar lover and driver here, currently running a Jaguar 5.0l XF Portfolio, but I might, just might, be getting my hands on a XFR R100 in the near future. I'm sure life will be even more fun!

Hi Caio, if a replacement engine is now the thinking, then I suggest you speak with a Dave Roche at DCR AutoParts, who specialise in new and used replacements for the X100 (your model). You can find Dave's details at the safe link below: DCR AutoParts - Independent Jaguar Parts and Accessories Specialist Alternatively, there are specialist breakers for Jaguars such as Auto Reserve. N6 JMX

Greetings dear distinguished ladies and gentlemen of this forum! I’m trying to source a replacement engine for the car, preferably low mileage as it goes. Would anyone have a recommendation for where to reliably source one from please? Thank you in advance!

Update – we have received an offer for the XK8 and a deposit has been paid. So fingers crossed this will soon be with its new owner.

My wife has decided to sell her 1998 Jag XK8 convertible. It's in great shape, never driven in winter. Let me know if interested, and I'll get you some pictures. Thanks in advance, Duane

Hi Duane, you have found the Forum pages okay and if you scroll further down you will come to a Market Place section, where you can post in the "Jaguars For Sale" tab. N6 JMX

I'm new to this group, therefore I don't know which part of the forum would work for me to post wanting to sell a 1998 Jag XK8. Thanks in advance for any and all answers. Duane

Someone on the American forum found another video for me. The trick is to use a combination of socket and extension, plus a flexible joint. Fixings are actually a threaded stud with a welded nut, so the whole thing unscrews as one piece. Hopefully, this should make the job do-able when I next have access to the ramp.

Thank you. I have one of those 'twist handle' ratchets, but there is no way to get a socket onto the 'hidden' nut from any angle that I can see, the starter motor body is in the way. Also thanks for the 'You Tube' video, unfortunately it is for the V6 version, so the bolt holes are in different positions than the V8 starter. I did wonder whether once the bottom nut is removed the starter motor could be turned slightly to get better access, then realised that the thread will still be sticking through the mounting hole ! I presume they have used nuts onto studs instead of bolts, because there would be no room to undo and extract a 30 mm long bolt.

Not sure but this might help:

Hi 👋 have you found the parts yet?

Hi 👋 not sure if you've resolved the issues 🤔. Dealing with similar symptoms which I've had reason to suspect possible camshaft valve not seating. And oil 🛢 separator gasket. Hope this advice points 👉 👈 👇.

Hi 👋 I've always tighten to around 78 to 82 NM just to be safer.

Hello everyone, has anyone experienced vacuum leaking internally from camshafts valves? Have a 2.5 x type 👎 that's giving me the hissing. Seems the sound is coming 🤔 from the front top & front timing chain cover. Also the upper center oil 🛢 separator gasket. Which am guessing could be leaking. Has anyone had symptoms of failing 😕 IMT valves. Can't shake codes PO171/174. My accelerator pedal sensor definitely needs cleaning or replacing. However don't see how that's causing 🤔 codes. Any advice or direction very much appreciated 👍 🙂 😊.

HI For most of the awkward bolts, I bought Facom rotator ratchets, I was that impressed with them I got all 3 sets, 1/4", 3/8" and 1/2" basically its like a normal ratchet, but you can also just rotate the handle and the socket spins, its save me a lot of hassel on my S-type R, especially when doing the valley pipe, when ive done timing belts on various cars its saved me hours in work. also using a wobble extension on the socket also means you can get the socket on the bolt at various angles wobble extention Facom rotator ratchet

Purchased a new starter motor and planned to fit it today. Got the car up on the ramp and removed the undertray, according to 'Topix' the starter motor on the V8 is only held on by two 'bolts' (they actually appear to be nuts ?) The V6 and diesel models are different. Bottom nut is clearly visible, it has a second nut attached that secures the earth lead. The top nut cannot be seen using any method that I have at my disposal. I can reach in and feel it, it's a 13 mm, but trying to get anything on it to loosen it is proving to be very awkward. Managed to get an 'S' shaped spanner onto it and managed to move it by a fraction but can't seem to get any of my 13 mm ratchet spanners onto it. Has anyone tackled this job who can provide any hints or tips ? Starter motor removal and refit.pdf