NUTS!

[Russ68]

Happy New Year to everyone and wishing a great 2017 to us all!

To those who followed the previous threads about it, I've had the staggered rear alloys fitted with the 275/35/18 Nexens, and IMHO, they fill out the rear arches very nicely, picture is attached:

Unfortunately they did raise an issue caused by 1: Over torquing of the rear nuts, by the garage who fitted the tyres 2: Well meaning but inexpert assistance while removing wheels to paint the brake calipers 3: Using the standard wheel wrench which was somewhat worn and stretched. This resulted in a number of the rear wheel nuts being badly damaged and the chrome tops being distorted.

Luckily I had some spare nuts after fitting locking wheel nuts, and being careful, and using an 18mm hex head on those that had had the chrome tops ripped off, I managed to save all but one of the nuts, which is now completely FUBAR, as per the attached picture.

I may see if I can persuade the mechanic who fitted the tyres (and over tightened the nuts) to take pity on me and help out. I do not want to damage the alloys so I wondered if anyone knows of a technique or device to remove a damaged wheel nut?

For interest I have replaced the standard wrench / brace with this one from eBay, it fits in the standard foam insert and is considerably better that the original.

Any help / comments appreciated 

[Russ68]

With the help of a specialist nut removal tool, I have now snapped the whole of the top of the nut off. It must be on ridiculously tight! I think I'm going to have to chain drill the sides of the nut out to remove.

I could insist the mechanic who overtightened it does this work, but they also do my MOT's and are generally excellent. So I think I'll have a go and only pass it to them if I can't do it. Not ideal though 

[Jolly Skipper]

Good Morning Russ

I too have a similar problem on the front NS wheel but am also embarassed by the fact that I am unable to get the socket off the damaged nut (the silver metal bit goes round and round!).

I am thinking of using a little heat (gas gun!) to try to release the whole affair and would be grateful for any pointers as to what not to do (as I seem to have done enough already!).

Wishing you a better 2017

[JOE-DOT-COM]

Hi

In the past I've found a socket that slightly smaller, maybe a imperial one, preferably one with a thickest wall and hammered it on, usuallydone the trick for me, make sure you tighten the other nuts first, as it will take some load off the damaged one

Cheers

Joe

[Jolly Skipper]

Thanks Joe

I managed to get the socket off the nut by judicious application of heat.

Will now have a go with an Imperial socket - I can only make it worse!

Best

Jolly

[Russ68]

Hi,

Glad I'm not the only one! The wheel nuts are uncharacteristically shoddy for Jaguar, but I guess mine have had c15 years of use and were mangled by the worn wheel brace, which I've now replaced, as per the previous link. I can recommend we all do this as it's a better bit of kit and fits in the original foam too.

Once the decorative chrome shell peeled off the top of the nut, I managed to beat on an 18mm socket, and remove all but one of the damaged nuts this way. Important here to use a proper hex one rather than the more faceted type seen in some socket sets.

Alternately, there are special sockets designed for exactly this task as per this Amazon Link, you may be able to borrow one as I did. We used one of the to snap the entire top off the recalcitrant nut, which I now need to drill out on the remaining collar part from the side and separate from the stud 

Good luck!

 

[Raistlin]

You can also replace the nuts with the equivalent from Toyota, which look fine but are solid rather than having a chrome cap,

[Jolly Skipper]

Thanks for the additional info Russ. I have sourced replacement nuts from the inevitable "on-line auction site" and was wondering how to get on with the steel covered one - now I know that more destructive brute force is required I will get on with it in the morning (weather permitting).

I had also seen replacement nuts without the covers and thought I might go down that road later - all I want to do is get the wheel off so I can strip down the caliper and am also rerplacing both front discs at the same time as I have a bit of a 'judder' under normal braking.

Once I have the car operational then I will be able to take it apart again to get at all the heater/air-con issues so at least I won't freeze to death in it!

I'll let you know how I get on!

Cheers again

Jolly

[Andy X400 3.0]

If all else fails there are mobile wheel nut removal specialists dotted around the country. They have the proper tools for the job and will save you a lot of hassle .

[Russ68]

Thanks Andy, myself and 2 mechanics did eventually use the 'proper tool', which was the specialist gripping socket and a long extension. This unfortunatly snapped the top off the bolt, and I'd rather drill out the remaining piece than let them do it. They realise they overtorqued the nut and owe me big time for this, which is a favour I'll be calling on at some point! 

[jaydeeuu]

As an added comment to previous posts on the "seized nut issue" - this week moving wheels/tyres around I found I had two seized nuts - the chrome covers just spun and removing them (the covers), then using a smaller socket plus breaker bar, I found it impossible to shift them.

The tyre fitter who had fitted new tyres on the two wheels was unable to help (bashing on a socket & using his air stuff just spun the socket) - however I noted the comment by ANDYDJ (thanks for that) ref specialists and checked Google. I found one 10 mins away who removed both nuts within 15 mins; charge £30.00 which included two brand new replacement nuts.

Chatting away (as you do) he mentioned that the S type was a common call out for him (at garages, tyre fitters etc - his main customer base) & recommended that I should remove all of the other nuts and lubricate with copper grease (already also mentioned in an earlier post)

Now for the next journey into the unknown !!!!!! - MOT next wednesday

Regards .... John

[JOE-DOT-COM]

Hi

thought its worth mentioning, that a proper socket, with 6 internal flats will do the job better and is a good snug fit

the wheel brace that comes with the car is quite a sloppy fit and will tend to push on the corner, making the shiny cap come loose

using a torque wrench also helps, you'll find most people over tighten them, especially with a air gun

cheers

Joe

[Russ68]

Absolutely Joe, my worn wheel brace was a least the partial cause of the original damage to the nut. So for those that didn't pick up on it before, I can recommend replacing the standard wrench / brace with something like this one from eBay, which I went for, it fits in the standard foam insert and is considerably better that the original... 

[Mr Lawrence]

Nuts?? 

Dont talk to me about nuts!!! 

This

plus this

led to this

which was resolved by forced removal of the lockers

four nuts from the scrappy later, normal service was resumed

 

[bertie1249]

On 20/01/2017 at 8:31 PM, Russ68 said:

Absolutely Joe, my worn wheel brace was a least the partial cause of the original damage to the nut. So for those that didn't pick up on it before, I can recommend replacing the standard wrench / brace with something like this one from eBay, which I went for, it fits in the standard foam insert and is considerably better that the original... 

Good to know about this so decided to buy one on your recommendation. Especially with my luck lately.

Cheers

[Jolly Skipper]

I too have ordered the "Professional" nut spanner as well as a set of "boggered nut removal tools" and some replacement nuts.

Sadly the 'operation' must wait as I have been summoned back to work (at sea) but I will return encouraged by the fact that I am not alone and there has been a surfeit of advice as to how I can proceed.

Rest assured I will let you know how I get on . . . . . . . .  hopefully reporting success.

My very best to all other 'sufferers'

Jolly

[Russ68]

Hi guys,

Glad I'm not the only one! The wheel nuts are uncharacteristically shoddy for Jaguar, but I guess mine have had c15 years of use and were mangled by the worn wheel brace, which I've now replaced, as per the previous link. I can recommend we all do this as it's a better bit of kit and fits in the original foam too.

Once the decorative chrome shell peeled off the top of the nut, I managed to beat on an 18mm socket, and remove all but one of the damaged nuts this way. Important here to use a proper hex one rather than the more faceted type seen in some socket sets.

Alternately, there are special sockets designed for exactly this task as per this Amazon Link, you may be able to borrow one as I did. We used one of the to snap the entire top off the recalcitrant nut, which I now need to drill out on the remaining collar part from the side and separate from the stud 

Good luck!

 

[Jolly Skipper]

Some good news at last.

With the correct 19mm socket (not the multi-tooth kind!) I used a soft-faced mallet to beat it onto the damaged nut.

Using the new wheel-brace arm recommended by Russ and a lot of weight I have managed to remove the wheel nut without any further aggravation.

I am unsure if the gas torch I applied on a previous day tto get the other socket off the nut helped and, if I'm honest, I don't care now it is off!

Many thanks to all of you for advice, guidance and all those "Positive waves" that came my way!

Once I've replaced the front discs and got the car moving again I will be tackling my heatre woes! What a full life it is to be a Jaguar owner!

 

[Russ68]

Well done, glad the recommend to the new brace was a help and you got it sorted! I still have to remove the remains of one nut, it's going to take a a couple of hours for sure and not sure when I'll be getting round to it!

[JOE-DOT-COM]

HI

I Know its a right pain

But a lot of manufactures do it, its the shape of cars and fitting it all in I suppose, poor design really

but the HID bulbs are suppose to last much, much longer than a normal Bulb

but saying that, with the right tools, both bulbs can be changed in just under an hour, been there done it

I wonder how much Jaguar charge to replace a Bulb, think jaguar charge about £45 for the Bulb and labour on top.

you can get 2 genuine osram D2S bulbs off eBay for £25, and 2 unbranded ones for less than a tenner,

cheers

Joe

 

[Russ68]

Hi Allan,

No comment on the HID as I don't have them, and the X200 bulbs are easy to change! But I am interested in swapping out the shoddy original nuts for a solid one piece, do you recall where you got yours Allan or does anyone else have a recommend?

I've found a US outfit who offers a solid nut, but c£100 the set and nice to get them closer to home.

Cheers, Russ

[JOE-DOT-COM]

HI

I am sure these fit and what a lot of people use

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Genuine-Toyota-Wheel-Nuts-x20-FITS-AURIS-YARIS-COROLLA-IQ-PRIUS-AVENSIS-HILUX-/152402491357?hash=item237be577dd:g:dpUAAOSw5cNYgK71

the sizes are on the eBay description, the nuts are bigger though, 21mm not 19mm

but are solid and are the m12 x 1.5 as jaguar

cheers

Joe

[JOE-DOT-COM]

Hi

found even a better deal on eBay on the nuts

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/set-20-12x-1-5-12x1-5mm-21mm-Flat-Seated-Hex-Alloy-Wheel-Nuts-/141904387512?fits=Car+Make%3AJaguar&hash=item210a291db8:g:JCIAAOSwqu9U3JqC

have a look here

cheers

joe

[Russ68]

Thanks Joe, FYI the 1st Toyota lot seemed to come through at £25 and the 2nd at £29.99. I'm not overly bothered by 21mm not 19mm, although my locking nuts are 19mm. I think I have both sockets on the new wheel brace so not an issue. I'll double check with the suppliers that they are solid and not foil covered like the originals, as this is what I think they need to be.

Cheers, Russ

[Jay959]

What you need is a 20mm Erbauer Holesaw cutting tool from B&Q (about £4) and the Erbauer SDS plus to 20UNF Chuck adapter (about £3) - these together put in a cordless drill and hey presto it fits perfectly over the sheared bolt exactly. You drill until you go through the first disc/washer (obvious when you doing it) then it just pops out. Once you’ve removed the wheel the remaining bolt simply twists off the lug or if stubborn use monkey grip. Unfortunately we have had to use this method many times but thankfully takes less than 60 seconds to resolve! Forget all other methods this is the one.