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Posted

I fitted a pair of front drop links. At least one had started knocking within a week of me fitting new Polybush ARB bushes. I knew deep down that I should have changed them then but I didn't. A little annoying as I'd undone one end of each one to allow the ARB to move freely for the bush change but there you go. On reflection I think that what with undoing and then doing them up the ball joint pin inevitably rotated and ended up in a different position therefore exacerbating the wear dramatically.

I also fitted front discs and pads, used discs and pads. Yes I know it sounds tight but they came off a scrap car I had a load of bits off last year and they'd had so little use that it was worth the £100 odd saving.

Whilst in there I found a nearly worn out o/s/f wheel bearing and lower damper bush and the n/s/f track rod end is near death. Also the lower front arm front bushes have a worrying amount of movement in them which I'm sure is responsible for the shake and general loose feeling in rough corners (there are lots of those here).

Once I've rebuilt my spare lower rear arms with new bushes and fitted them I will move to the front and replace what's needed there. The new damper bush and track rod end will be easy as I'll just buy quality replacements, Lemforder is first choice. However, the front lower arm bushes are another matter; The originals appear to be a void type bush which to my mind may well give a more compliant ride when new but will wear out sooner than a solid one and then give a worse ride that the solid one would at similar mileage.

And so, from one extreme to the other; For the front lower wishbones I'm looking at Powerflex Black series which are the hardest compound they make. I try to look at the whole picture when it comes to suspension and so although they certainly will transmit more vibration than rubber the improved location of the arms can only be a benefit as it will allow the springs and dampers to do their job and lessen unwanted geometry changes. Plus for me most journeys are on B and small A roads, we live 50 miles from a motorway and although there is a dual carriageway (yes one) I don't really use it much. So comfort around corners is what I have to consider and I've never found a floaty, wallowy car comfortable on twisty roads. In fact comfort would normally be way down the list of priorities for me but I bought this car for primarily that reason (another story) so it has to be considered.

Please bare in mind I work on a budget of not-a-lot. I do virtually all and any work needed myself and although I would certainly not call myself an engineer I am experienced in mechanical repair and learning all the time, as it should be. I will probably update this thread now and again as I rebuild my suspension and let you all know how it works out.

 

  • Like 2

Posted

I've been super impressed with the ride and handling on mine since changing tyres and making a couple of suspension repairs. I think our Sport's have a firmer ride, but it's still comfortable IMO. Similar to you, (I'm on the Isle of Wight) we also have 1 dual carriageway, and no motorway, so mainly windy B roads. If your get yours anything like mine, you shouldn't be dissapointed, but don't overlook tyres, matching rubber on each axle is a must, regardless of tight budgets! 

All the best, Russ :wink1:

Posted

hi Ralph

Interesting read, any chance of popping some pics of the work your doing? I know they will be appreciated

Regards

Steve

Posted

I know the Sport models have a different dampers at least and it would make sense that the springs were made to match. I'd really like four Bilstein B6 dampers but they cost north of £500 so will have to wait. I've been trying to justify a set because of the worn out lower front damper bush I found, but that's a bit of stretch.

I'll be putting the new rear bushes which arrived yesterday in my spare lower rear arms this weekend when I've collected the hydraulic press. Hopefully the weather will stay good so I can get them onto the car as well! I can't stand a wobbly car and that's what mine is right now. I'll take pictures and make another thread for that.

IMG_2725.thumb.JPG.4cde4f3fc40bcb2078a5a0e2688ecb85.JPG

One of the new bushes. The central tube connects to the outer one via a nylon balljoint hence the misalignment. I have no excuse for the poor focus..


IMG_2726.thumb.JPG.9148cb75fbbccb15102e3a9c3fde0a1f.JPG

As you can see here the rubber is just a seal to protect said balljoint. I'll take the covers right off when fitting the bushes to save damaging them.

The balljoint design of these bushes are the reason I wouldn't fit poly in their place. Firstly they allow the arm to move up and down in the correct arc and the hub carrier upright to rotate freely so the toe of the wheels can be tracked properly which I believe a polybush wouldn't. Secondly they are solid, as in there is absolutely no compliance to radial loads. A piece of polyurethane of any hardness simply cannot improve on that lack of radial compliance and so, as I see it, the much touted improvements in suspension component location are null and void for this particular application. 

Apart from that wobble this is the most comfortable riding car I've ever had. That's not too surprising as I've never had a Jaguar before but I won't know what's hit me when I get my Corrado back on the road, it's uncompromising that's for sure. But the real problem is I think the Jag's probably faster as well as comfier, hmm.

tyres. I have Pirelli P7 Cinturato on the front and have a matching pair in the shed to go on the back once the Lassa's are worn out. I've not yet actually run out of grip in normal driving, playing about on wet slip roads is another matter but that's just being a hooligan..

Oh I also changed the fuel filter on Sunday along with those other parts. It's was a lot simpler than I thought it would be. Rather than the Ford Quick Connect fittings I was expecting it had a plastic C clip retainers that passed though the socket on the end of each fuel hose. These easily prised out with a flat screwdriver and then the hose just pulled off. The Quick Connect type need a tool to release them which I'm glad I didn't have to make, I would prefer simple Jubilee clips myself to be honest. The muck and grit that came out the inlet side of the filter was quite something so I'm glad I changed it! I'm sure hard acceleration feels smoother now.

 

Posted

Hi

I,d put some extra grease inside them

also I rub some grease on the rubber gaiters after, I see a lot of the rubber gaiters/boots perish in next to no time, the grease rubbed on them make em last longer

cheers

Joe


Posted

Hmm, yes I put some extra grease in the bushes of the new rear track rods which are very similar to these. What little there is in these looks and smells a lot like vaseline..

I've been wondering what to coat the seals with, I'd be inclined to think that anything petrochemical would attack rubber rather than protect, but then they're filled with grease aren't they! I don't think UV is too much of a worry (unlike those track rod ends) but keeping the grit and muck off them would be great. Whatever it was would have to be pretty resilient.

I've repaired split balljoint covers and even CV boots with self-amalgamating tape before. It's amazing stuff but I'm not sure it would last on these ones as space is tight and there are moving parts right next to them.


Posted

I haven't actually done anything to the car as such. However, I do now have a pair of lower rear arms sat in the shed with new outer and rear-inner bushes having pressed them in myself on Monday. I was tempted to change the front-inner bush as well but it's solid rubber and seemed to be in good order on both arms so I left them. Plus I need to budget for new front lower arm bushes which I believe are more important, not ideal but I can always take it apart again later..

I'll get the arms fitted asap, hopefully today. Then start a separate thread outlining how the whole thing was done.

 

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