Please Help :(

[dazav8]

Hello, I am so stupid, i cleaned the car out lastnight and left the key in the ignition overnight (on position) Now my battery is dead, As i understand the battery is in the boot? of a 1999 s type, Some idiot has removed the lock on the underlip of the boot so i cannot get into it, Is there any other way i can get into the boot?, My battery is completely dead so the boot lid switch dont even work.

Thanks

[dazav8]

17 minutes ago, R2e said:

I believe you can get trickle chargers that connect to the cigarette lighter from another car or a mains powered battery charger, which might provide enough power to open the boot. I don't know anything about them but might be worth a call to Halfords or if you have breakdown cover your provider might be able to help.

Thank you, I didnt even think of charging through the cigarette lighter, I found one for £19

[Lazlo Woodbine]

I hope the charger works for you. I can't see why it wouldn't but just in case I know of another way..

It's a bit of an animal manoeuvre but you can get into the boot by force.

If you have a premium sound subwoofer on the shelf I'm afraid the way I did it won't work.

I cut a T shaped slot in the parcel shelf above the empty speaker hole and managed to get enough of my arm through the hole to grab the release pull for the seat back.

The slot in the shelf is now invisible as no material was cut out and the fibres closed over the cut. I would rather not have done it but didn't have much choice at the time.

[dazav8]

I just ordered a charger that plugs into the cigarette lighter, Fingers crossed

[Raistlin]

If you have a spare battery, booster, or other 12 volt supply, you can connect it to the main supply under the bonnet (Fusebox) with the black lead to the bodywork. That will allow you to open the boot on the switch. PLEASE don't try and charge the battery at those terminals though. As soon as the boot is open, disconnect and charge the battery in the conventional way.

[dazav8]

1 hour ago, Raistlin said:

If you have a spare battery, booster, or other 12 volt supply, you can connect it to the main supply under the bonnet (Fusebox) with the black lead to the bodywork. That will allow you to open the boot on the switch. PLEASE don't try and charge the battery at those terminals though. As soon as the boot is open, disconnect and charge the battery in the conventional way.

I have just popped the bonnet on my jag and cannot see a red wire near the fusebox, any help appreciated? 

[Lazlo Woodbine]

You could alternatively use the permanent live at the starter motor.

[Raistlin]

3 minutes ago, Lazlo Woodbine said:

You could alternatively use the permanent live at the starter motor.

Even better :)

[Raistlin]

2 hours ago, dazav8 said:

I have just popped the bonnet on my jag and cannot see a red wire near the fusebox, any help appreciated? 

Inside the fusebox Daryl, where the main 12volt bus comes in. Although Ralph's idea is easier if you can see the starter motor terminals, rather than splitting open the fusebox.

[JOE-DOT-COM]

hi

There a live battery terminal in the drivers front wheel arch, wheel arch liner needs to be removed

you could use jump leads just to power it up, once the boot is opened remove the battery and charge it over night

cheers

Joe

[dazav8]

I give up, The car is causing too much stress, I paid £1200 for it 2 weeks ago, since then spent just over £400 on it, Im going to sell it for silly money and call it a loss as i need a car 24/7 to be fair, Thanks for all your help.

[Lazlo Woodbine]

I get where you're coming from. I had such problems with a car of mine once that I bought another because it cost me less than taking another week off work.

Stick a for sale ad up on the forum and maybe a cheeky thread here to link to it.

[dazav8]

I really dont want to give up on the car, Its bugging me, Im not mechanically minded at all so i get stuck on the options i have been given by the members on here, I saw one about the starter motor?, Any diagrams or more basic instructions on how to do this would be great, Like a dummies guide, Thanks

[Lazlo Woodbine]

The starter motor can be found where the engine and gearbox bolt to each other. You'll have to crawl in under the car about level with the front of the front doors to see it. I think it's on the passenger side on the V8. The starter motor has a relay on it known as a solenoid, it's basically a switch to turn on the starter motor. This solenoid has three positive terminals on it, see the picture below. 

The one on the left in the green circle goes directly to the battery so 12v+ on here will power up the car. The one at the top with the thin wire goes to the ignition switch, don't use it. The one on the right goes to the starter motor so definitely don't put it on there!

In case you're in any doubt the one for the starter motor will almost certainly have a flat metal plate clamped under the nut which goes through the outer case of the motor, passing through a rubber or plastic insulator on its way. So it should be easy to identify. Make sure the one you put 12v+ onto has a big thick cable leading away into the depths of the car, this will be the cable to the battery.

The best thing to use would be a wire with a biggish crocodile clip, the sort you would see on a battery charger. A jumper cable might do but may be a bit bulky. Connecting to this solenoid should be the very first connection you make, then connect the other end to your 12v source (charger, spare battery or even one in another car). Only once you know that both ends are secure do you want to complete the circuit by connecting the negative of the power source to the chassis of the car (actually the engine block's probably a better place).

There are various modules which may well start drawing a current as soon as they get power so there may be some small sparks as you connect the negative. Keep this rig connected for as shorter time as possible, so if someone else is handy then get them on standby to press the boot release  as soon as you make the circuit.

 

 

[The Voices]

The 'cigar lighter' type jump starter should be able to start the car or at least power up the electrics so that can get into the boot ?

Sounds obvious but make sure the other car is running, you may need to leave it for a few minutes to get a bit of charge back into your battery before attempting to start it.

Might be the solution if you are not confident messing about getting a 12v feed to the starter motor or the terminal under the wheel arch ?

 

 

 

[dazav8]

OK quick update, I had a friend who popped over lastnight to take a look at my situation, An hour later hes inside the boot!, He took out some of the rear seats with enough room to crawl into the boot and get things opened, That was the good news, The bad news now and more expense is my battery charger decided to die and now i have to buy another one, Its like someone does not want me to drive my car anymore haha, Anyway new charger coming today, Fingers crossed!

[Lazlo Woodbine]

Result! Shame about the charger but at least you're in there, and more importantly someone else put the effort in!

[dazav8]

Sorted, Got my baby up and running, Now to the original problem i have, the MISFIRE :P

[JOE-DOT-COM]

Hi

If its a petrol, what engine do you have

its either going to be a bad spark plug or a coil pack

if you have access to a engine code reader it should tell you which cylinder the misfire in on

cheers

Joe

[dazav8]

Hi Joe its a petrol V8, I tried the reader and it shows 0 codes, Today i went out to look at the sparks and they are all brand new, As for the coils i took them out 1 by 1 last week and they all seem ok, Maybe i missed something

[Lazlo Woodbine]

As I said in your other thread, I think it's bad insulation on one or more coils.

[JOE-DOT-COM]

Hi

Its usually a faulty coil pack, its a common problem on the V8's, especially if there the original ones

It could be a air leak, causing a misfire, but I'd be more leaning towards a coil pack

diagnosing this without any  kit is going to be awkward,

if its a air leak, I'd use torque app and a bluetooth OBD tool and would show if you have a air leak easy by monitoring fuel trims

for the coil pack or plugs I'd use Jaguar IDS/SDD software, connect it and drive it and it will log any misfires and would show exact which cylinder it is.

my S-type R, in the engine ECU has a data logger built in, when you plug in with Jaguar IDS/SDD you can view this data and it store a massive amount of data, things like faults, misfire, all engine pressures and sensors, all gearbox sensors, speed, gps position, every thing, with the right software may be easy to find

its not going to be easy to find with out jaguar software, unless it creates fault codes and eml comes one

if it were mine, I'd change all eight plugs, if that dont work, i'd change all eight coil packs

even if i knew which coil or plug it was, i'd still change all eight, if one has failed, the other 7 wont be far behind and fail eventually

shame there's no one near you with jaguar software who could help you out

cheers

joe

[Lazlo Woodbine]

Hey Joe, do you reckon you'd be able to do a thread as a sticky on here with a guide as to what's needed to get set up with the Jaguar IDS/SDD software?

 

[JOE-DOT-COM]

17 hours ago, Lazlo Woodbine said:

Hey Joe, do you reckon you'd be able to do a thread as a sticky on here with a guide as to what's needed to get set up with the Jaguar IDS/SDD software?

 

Hi Ralph

Its not all that difficult to get setup with with Jaguar IDS/SDD

I Paid £70 for my Mongoose lead and software, I bought it from British diagnostics, but I think there more towards £100 now, but its a genuine mongoose lead not a clone,

I use v131 software, which came with it, its the most complete software and works with every model, IDS is used with pre 2005 cars and SDD is used with post 2005 cars

the software can be downloaded from every where on the internet, v130 & v131 are known to be one of the best, have not tried v130 yet, later versions after v131 are more for later cars and you loose some functionality on earlier cars, and really later software you loose IDS.

Software needs to be installed on a computer with windows XP professional, I've set up a laptop dedicated for the jaguar, Good spec laptops for windows xp professional can be bought for less that £50 for mint cond one, from like gumtree or sphock.

The software can do everything Jaguar can, so must be used with caution, but if your using it as a Diagnostic tool, its quite straight forward, programing basic modules is also quite straight forward, like adding jaguar voice, phone module, basic modules, but I keep away from like updating software in transmission and engine.

but as a Diagnostic tool its great, you can plug in and scan every module on the car and It will bring up all the fault code, give you  a possible reason for the fault and a remedy for the fault

the software can also be run on windows 7 up to latest windows, using software like VMWARE, which creating a virtual windows 7, which works ok, but is no where near a stable as using a windows xp pro laptop.

you also have access to a lot of dealer options like alarm sensitivity, double lock horn chirp, panic, global locking, drl, automatic arming, are just a few

will try upload some pics of the IDS software if I get chance

cheers

Joe

[dazav8]

Sounds good too me, I purchased a cheap code reader and it keeps coming back with 0 codes but i have a misfire, MY amber light flashes, So i put the code reader on after the drive and nothing shows up, This method your speaking about here sounds the best idea for me