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Posted

I'm looking around for a trustworthy place to service my 6 speed box but at a reasonable price.

 

Doncaster Jags gave the best quote but they are not open at the weekends.

I really need someone who is open on Saturday.

VMTP in Cannock is a possibility but over £400.

 

Does anyone have experience with J.A.G in Bilston?

 

Thanks

Posted

Now I'm confused!

To flush or not to flush.

To exchange or flush? To drain all day or just drain and refill.

Some drain, some flush (how?), some use an exchanger(is this the same as flush)?

Some say flushing is bad as it can stir up all the rubbish and not get flushed out.

 

 

Posted

I'll level with you, I've never had an auto or even worked on one. However it's one of those things that's definitely worth doing right. My gut feeling is that if you're going to do any more than just a fluid/filter change then a full service would be the way. I'd research the companies you're considering and if they have a good rep then follow their advice.

Some people even take their ZF equipped cars to ZF themselves, in Dortmund!  http://www.bimmerboard.com/forums/posts/527361 To be fair no-one can know them better.

Posted

HI

No need to flush, that's what the filter there for

the Oil should come out quite clean, the Oil just degrades due to high temperature and age, if it come out heavily contaminated or dirty, it has other issues and a service aint going fix it

Genuine parts alone are £200, it takes a few hours to do and a strict procedure for end level check

when you drain, you only get about 6.5 L of fluid out and about 5 L stays in the torque converter, only way to empty that is to remove and drain

I did mine a couple of years ago, it worth doing, but doing right, use the genuine parts and the genuine Oil ZF Lifeguard 6, if you don't you will regret it

mixing oils from different brands is bad and can make the oil go bad if mixed

don't recommend flushing because flushing will disturb dirt and particle's from the filter and move them round the gearbox, which is bad, as the gearbox basically is a hydraulic system with lots of solenoids and also there's the ecu for the gearbox also submersed in the oil as well

having a indy or dealer do is good as they should also check the software is up to date and they also reset the adaptations, the ecu memory and how the gearbox drives, it also learns how the drivers style, problem is it also remember faults and bad gear changes, these will be all cleared and usually makes the car drive really well again

cheers

joe

Posted
11 hours ago, JOE-DOT-COM said:

HI

No need to flush, that's what the filter there for

the oil should come out quite clean, the oil just degrades due to high temperature and age, if it come out heavily contaminated or dirty, it has other issues and a service aint going fix it

Genuine parts alone are £200, it takes a few hours to do and a strict procedure for end level check

when you drain, you only get about 6.5 L of fluid out and about 5 L stays in the torque converter, only way to empty that is to remove and drain

I did mine a couple of years ago, it worth doing, but doing right, use the genuine parts and the genuine oil ZF Lifeguard 6, if you don't you will regret it

mixing oils from different brands is bad and can make the oil go bad if mixed

don't recommend flushing because flushing will disturb dirt and particle's from the filter and move them round the gearbox, which is bad, as the gearbox basically is a hydraulic system with lots of solenoids and also there's the ecu for the gearbox also submersed in the oil as well

having a indy or dealer do is good as they should also check the software is up to date and they also reset the adaptations, the ecu memory and how the gearbox drives, it also learns how the drivers style, problem is it also remember faults and bad gear changes, these will be all cleared and usually makes the car drive really well again

cheers

joe

Thanks for the advice Jo.

Fluid was apparently checked a couple of years ago and it was clean so hope it has stayed that way since then. (unless I was lied to).

So many diferring opinions on whether you should exchange all the fluid or just do a partial drain. I guess the best and safest way would be to perform several partial drains to gradually dilute the old Oil but very time consuming I imagine. I can't see a garage doing that.

 

On the sump is there a drain plug in addition to the overflow pipe to get the level right?

Was thinking once the new sump and fluid is on then you could drain it again and refill with another 6 litres without distrubing the sump.

 


Posted

I'm actually looking for a garage that can perform the exchange through the Oil pipes, not a flushing.

Bluechem has a list but haven't found any locally yet.

 


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