Front discs/pads replacement difficult or not?

[Solus]

MOT on my 2003 S-Type 3.0 V6 is due and I know that the front pads need replacing...although there was no mention of any wear on the previous MOT...do they do that? Anyway was wondering how difficult it is to replace the discs and pads myself? Have done plenty of work on cars and bikes in the past but never done anything at all on a Jag. I am also wondering if I can just order the parts going by reg, model, vin number? I know I will have difficulty getting the passenger side wheel off as two of the nuts are seized. They had to be replaced at the last MOT and seems the same issue is still present. 

Any advice would be most welcome. Also need to sort out the rear left ABS but will stick that in another post.

Thanks in advance.

Saul

[Russ68]

Hey Saul,

I did mine awhile back and can't remember any issues. If anything the Jag was easier than some as bigger and better quality components. There was a countersunk crosshead retaining screw on the discs which took some persuading, I may have used and impact driver on that. I recall having to buy a brake piston wind back tool to get the calipers wound back in, but pretty sure this was for the rears, not fronts.

Good luck, you should be fine 😉

[Solus]

Thanks Russ. Yeah I heard there was a tool needed for the rear brakes but I think they are fine for the MOT. 

Did you order parts just by Reg number/Vin or did you need to check what was on there already?

[Russ68]

Since I ordered my 1st service kit from Berkshire Jag Spares, I get everything from them. I generally order by phone to go through the options and it's always arrived quick and right. They may want VIN, but more likely explain year and model and they'll know the rest 😉

[JustBadly]

Front pad replacement is simple but heavy work. While you are at it buy new bleed nipples for the brake calipers. You will need a piston rewind tool, they are stiff !Removed!'s. When you have the job set up and are ready to rewind the pistons, loosen the bleed nipple until hand tight. Then as you rewind the piston loosen the bleed nipple so the brake fluid drains out (all over the floor). Once fully recessed, tighten the bleed nipple. This dumps the brake fluid nearest the pad - which will be seriously out of grade. When the pads are in and wheel on, pump the brake pedal till firm and top up the brake reservoir with new fluid. This is a quick and reliable way to 'bleed' the brakes.