Sheered wheel nuts

[Clive Hunt]

Hello All,

I have a Jaguar XF S 3.0d (62 plate). I have now had a second wheel nut sheer whilst trying to remove a wheel (one front and one rear). The first was just over a year ago and cost almost £1000 to resolve at my main dealer. The second happened a week ago and is about to go back into the main dealer to be sorted once again. The reason for wheel removal was firstly, a puncture, the second to replace the front brake pads. My fear is that more will sheer in the near future.

Is this a common fault? Does anyone know how best to get the sheered nut out/off for cheaper?

Many thanks,

Clive Hunt

[JOE-DOT-COM]

hi

not sure about the XF, but I think the wheels nuts are the same on my S-type R

if there the flat seat ones with a stainless cover, there a bad design, if there tightened up with air guns, the stainless sleeve slips and you can't get them  undone, also there reknown for shearing off

have a look at the pics below

cheers

Joe

standard ones oe wheel bolts

 

swap them for these, these are solid no covers and are still 19mm so oe wheel brace can be used

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/20x-ALLOY-WHEEL-NUTS-JAGUAR-S-TYPE-X-TYPE-CHROME-LUG-BOLT-STUD-QUALITY-20L/322551270259?_trksid=p2485497.m4902.l9144

[Clive Hunt]

Joe,

Very many thanks for the info on the wheel nuts. They look very similar if not the same as on my XF. I have had 2 sheer so far, am I the only one I wonder?

No doubt it’s going to cost me a small fortune to have it removed by my Jaguar dealer!

Cheers,

Clive Hunt
 

[Michael r white]

Try sn32 wheel nuts i bought mine for my s type from advantage motorsports oulton park. 

[Jimbov8]

On 12/19/2019 at 8:37 PM, JOE-DOT-COM said:

hi

not sure about the XF, but I think the wheels nuts are the same on my S-type R

if there the flat seat ones with a stainless cover, there a bad design, if there tightened up with air guns, the stainless sleeve slips and you can't get them  undone, also there reknown for shearing off

have a look at the pics below

cheers

Joe

standard ones oe wheel bolts

 

swap them for these, these are solid no covers and are still 19mm so oe wheel brace can be used

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/20x-ALLOY-WHEEL-NUTS-JAGUAR-S-TYPE-X-TYPE-CHROME-LUG-BOLT-STUD-QUALITY-20L/322551270259?_trksid=p2485497.m4902.l9144

And this is what lurks beneath the chrome cap after just 8 years. Get them changed for the solid versions.

[David Burgess]

This is a serious on going fault with the design of these nuts.

I have all four tyres replaced. And was strongly advised to replace the nuts. As they are swelling???? 😳

I ordered a new set costing £50 for all 16 nuts.

I wish I kept the old ones as the garage who fitted them, threw the old ones away. 
Recently had a full service and all good.

just picked up car after having wheels refurbished. And a nut has sheared of a stud.

so having to replace the nut and the stud.

This is very concerning . Imagine being at the road side in an emergency attempting to change a tyre. When I have had to remove a wheel. I had to put a steel tube over the brace to crack the joint to free the nut.

So what do we do guys? Is there a product, we can use to prevent this happening in the future?

[LairdScooby]

17 hours ago, David Burgess said:

 

So what do we do guys? Is there a product, we can use to prevent this happening in the future?

The biggest major problem is with tyre depots using windy guns to tighten the wheel nuts. The torque figure on my S Type is 93lbft or 130Nm for the wheel nuts, windy guns (pneumatic impact wrenches) have a maximum torque of 250lbft (~320Nm) which is a shade over 2.5 times what the wheel studs/nuts were designed for - also more than the wheels (more importantly) were designed for.

This is something i get particularly angry about as after having wheels balanced on two separate cars at a tyre depot, the wheels were damaged irreparably due to the use of windy guns. There is also the strong likelihood the wheel studs will sheer simply through excess torque.

As for the corrosion problem under the stainless steel cap, if windy guns are NOT used, the cap remains close fitting, excluding all corrosion catalysts (water, air, dirt etc) so the nuts themselves do not corrode. If they do corrode, rust grows almost organically and does indeed swell the nut - just look at the rusty wheel arches on a late 90s Merc/VAG or similar and you will see big bubbles where the rust has formed.

Using a smear of copper grease on the threads of the fasteners and avoiding ALL use of windy guns (including removal of the nuts) will prolong the life of the nuts in the first place. Replacing the nuts with aftermarket solid nuts is one option, however the quality varies and the bright nickel plating on some cheaper nuts tarnishes and flakes off.

Sadly i've got a lot of experience of these type of nuts having run Rover 800s for many years - not relevant? The nuts are near, if not completely, identical.

The basic design of a steel nut with a polished stainless steel sheath over the top is definitely the same, the thread of M12 x 1.5 is the same and when the S Type was designed, Jaguar Land Rover were still (at least in part) part of the Rover Group and Rover had been using these Honda designed nuts for over a decade by then. I know Ford bought the remaining shares in JLR a little later but many things were kept the same.

[Bigvic]

The last person to have the wheel off probably just gunned the wheel nut on and over-tightened it. The nuts are supposed to be torqued up - don’t know the torque.

original jag nuts have an alloy covering which looks pretty to start with, but rust eventually develops beneath and swells the nut. I swapped mine for toyota solids

[Bigvic]

Erm…

mr lairdscooby just beat me to it with a much better reply