S Type 2.7 - Park brake actuator & cable(s)

[keithstype27]

Hi, My 2007 S Type 2.7 has recently displayed the fault message 'Parking Brake Cannot Be Applied'. (Fault Code C1802)

After checking  brake calipers and changing pads etc, I discovered it is a broken cable. The broken cable is not the drivers side or the passenger side brake cable, but appears to come directly from the Actuator situated over the rear differential.

Now, here is the question.....can that cable (from the actuator) be replaced and if so how does it attach to the actuator, or, does this require a replacement actuator together with attached cable?

(My S Tye has been a challenge recently but still worth keeping)

Edited February 4, 2020 by keithstype27
words in wrong place in sentence

[JOE-DOT-COM]

hi

dont think that cable is available on it own

so its either a used cable if some one is willing to part it, a used park brake motor and cable or new park brake motor

cheers

Joe

[keithstype27]

Thanks Joe.

I'm not looking forward to tackling this job!!

 

Keith

[keithstype27]

Now having problems getting the disconnected Actuator out  - does it follow the path of the cable or does it have to come out somewhere else?

[JOE-DOT-COM]

hi

two bolts on top, one electrical connector, then it just slides out to the side and down

make sure you disconnect the battery and reconnect, before switching the ignition on, so the EPB resets its position

cheers

Joe

[keithstype27]

Thanks Joe.

I eventually managed to get the old actuator out but it was quite awkward and required some colourful metaphors! I had to come back to this forum to check what others have said as I thought maybe I was reading the directions incorrectly.

The actuator did come out of the passenger side (uk left) following the path of the actuator cable. It needed much twisting and turning to find the path out.

Just a tip for anyone doing this job on their own car, when putting the actuator back in, I found it easier to tape a stiff wire to the electrical connector and then feed that stiff wire back through the correct path first,  then pull the actuator connection wires through. This prevents the electrical connector wires from becoming twisted around the actuator or getting snagged as you move the actuator around trying to pull and push the replacement back in.

One of the most awkward parts to this job is getting the brake cables disconnected from the 'joiner' situated behind the wheel well. They rust and need lost of releasing fluid and wire brushing to loosen them off. Sometimes the plastic cover coating of the brake cable gets damaged when holding the cable with pliers or grips, exposing the bare metal cable so I painted these areas with enamel brake paint to prevent rust returning.

REASON FOR REPLACING ACTUATOR - The cable that runs directly from the actuator is the reason I had to replace the whole shebang. The cable protective covering had been rubbed away against the body and the cable had rusted and snapped. I had the fault message ' Cannot Apply Park Brake' and the faulty code C1802.

New rear pads fitted whilst I was at it.

Park brake re calibration procedure followed.

Job done.

Relieved man.

[JOE-DOT-COM]

hi

glad it sorted, there not the most accessible part on the car and troublesome when they play, hope you have routed the cable so it wont rub through in the future

cheers

Joe

[keithstype27]

I hope so too. Thanks Joe.

 

Regards

 

Keith

[JustBadly]

A sticky on another Jaguar forum recommends dropping the differential and accessing the parkbrake motor from there. Looking to do mine this year since the inspektor said it's operation is erratic. Though looking at the design, if I had my way the parkbrake motor would be in the boot, underneath the side trims, there is enough room there!

[keithstype27]

Hi Justin, Thanks for the post. Yes, I had to drop the diff' to allow sufficient room to remove and replace the actuator. It is fiddley to remove but does come out. Let me know when you intend to do yours as I have some photos I can share if you wish.

 

Regards

 

Keith

[JustBadly]

Yes put the pictures up anyway. I'd guess you will have used offset ring spanners to loosen the 18mm bolts on the rear of the diff. One question, are the actuator 10mm a/f hex nuts 'attached' to the inside of the sub frame? I would expect them to be.

[John 2007 Jag]

On 2/12/2020 at 8:54 AM, keithstype27 said:

Hi Justin, Thanks for the post. Yes, I had to drop the diff' to allow sufficient room to remove and replace the actuator. It is fiddley to remove but does come out. Let me know when you intend to do yours as I have some photos I can share if you wish.

 

Regards

 

Keith

Hello My name is John and I'm contacting you from Philadelphia. I'd love to see those photos as I plan on tackling the same job when the weather breaks. Also, was your replacement actuator used or new?