S-Type 2.7d DCCV replacement

[justsam]

Oh. My God. 

No amount of research could prepare me for this job.

So it turns out the Dual Coolant Control Valve (DCCV) for the 2.7d is NOT in the same place as the petrol models. It is far, far worse.

I drained the coolant (after much searching for the drain point - about 6 inches forward of the circular gap in the splash guard), and removed the coolant reservoir and a few hoses to access the area behind the radiator where I thought it would be. No sign of it.

Tried removing the front splash guard to take a look from underneath. All torx screws corroded and impossible to remove. Tried removing the front bumper in its entirety, but experienced the same issue.

After much swearing and scraped knuckles I finally found it; jacked up on the front right side (and secured with an axle stand under the proper point), removed the front right wheel and wheel arch liner - and there it is! Underneath the windscreen wash reservoir.

The person that designed the location and mounting for this valve needs shooting. Removing the bolts that secure the front splash guard to the main under tray will help a little bit, but not much.

A few tips for the unwary:

1. Even after you have drained the system, be prepared for a lot more coolant to escape from the valve and hoses once unfastened.

2. Don't try to use mole grips to move the constant tension hose clamps. It will work, but it is very, very difficult due to the tight space and awkward angles in this area. You are much better off using a purpose-made tool.

3. Use a purpose-made tool to remove the hoses from the fittings. It will save you hours of sweating and swearing. And just be patient with the electrical connector, there is a knack that is impossible to describe.

4. The DCCV for the diesel models is NOT secured with a 10mm bolt as with the petrol models. It is a T27 torx screw, and the head is on the far side of the fitting. Don't try to remove the "nut" on the side facing toward the right of the car, it is welded to the mount as a receptacle for the torx screw. Only took me 2 hours to figure that out... Use mole grips or similar to hold the old DCCV in place while you wrestle to undo the screw, or you will bend the ridiculously thin mount.

5. Silicone lubricant spray is a must to get the hoses back onto the new DCCV. It also helps in sliding the constant tension clamps back into position.

I hope this helps any other 2.7d owners that dare attempt this task themselves. Using the right tools and knowing where the DCCV is on this model will save you a great deal of frustration.

[JOE-DOT-COM]

hi

you never said whether you got it working

as sometimes, if the connectors get enough water in them and corrosion, they take the climate module out

cheers

Joe

[justsam]

Not installed the new RCCM yet but it has arrived (reconditioned one obvs, am not made of money). Will whack it in later and hope the whole thing hasn't been in vain...

The DCCV connector looked fine, no corrosion or scorching. The old RCCM had a track scorched out so hopefully with that and the DCCV replaced, I shall have cold, cold air again. Fingers crossed!

[Alan huxley]

Sam,

You sound either a Detective, Saint or Doctor. Well done, sit down after and have a cool beer as you apply the plasters to your knuckles.

Regards,

Alan.

[justsam]

Thanks Alan, I would love to be able to claim to be any of those three.

As it happens, I finally found time just now to fit the reconditioned RCCM. A task so easy I actually got my four-year-old daughter to do it, in about 5 mins.

And success! Even the air con is kicking in once more. Such a relief that all that time and effort wasn't for nothing. The S-Type lives to fight another day!

[Chidders]

Sam,

Well done, now get some use out of it.

 

dave

[Wee Cy]

Just completed this job today and thanks to guidance from Sam it was done in a little over 2 hours. A great time saver if you're doing this job is to remove the mounting plate (1 torx screw) and take it out with the valve attached, disconnect the hoses from the car and remove valve with hoses in situ and replace them on the new valve being mindful of orientation and, as per Sam's advice use plenty of silicone spray for refitting to the car. Re the splash guards I just drilled out the rusty fittings and replaced, saved a LOT  of time.

Thanks again to Sam as I don't think I'd have been so keen to tackle this job without his guidance.

You sir, are a hero, someone's always got to be first.

[Wee Cy]

Just completed this job today and thanks to guidance from Sam it was done in a little over 2 hours. A great time saver if you're doing this job is to remove the mounting plate (1 torx screw) and take it out with the valve attached, disconnect the hoses from the car and remove valve with hoses in situ and replace them on the new valve being mindful of orientation and, as per Sam's advice use plenty of silicone spray for refitting to the car. Re the splash guards I just drilled out the rusty fittings and replaced, saved a LOT  of time.

Thanks again to Sam as I don't think I'd have been so keen to tackle this job without his guidance.You sir, are a hero, someone's always got to be first.Also, further to Sam's advice, I purchased a tool from amazon it looks like an overgrown grip of some kind with a wire attachment but it is the absolute dogs b*ll*cks for this job. As I say, without being forewarned I'd have gone at it with my usual mole grips which would've been another time nightmare.

[mrmike]

I ordered the new DCC valve which came with the mount so I could see how it was mounted, I have a pair of bent pliers fairly thin nosed ideal in this case for removing the clamps or at least sliding them along. Easy job but it did not solve my problem. The old DCC was working fine as was the ACCU. I followed Karls guide on the US site and was in contact with him for some weeks on the site. I did many tests with clamped tubes, measured thermistors, Strobed  A/C compressor clutch etc. Finally I was left with 2 possibilities The Evaporator unit (Dashboard out job) or the A/C Compressor itself. I went to an A/C specialist Co and their opinion was that the Compressor was tired. I changed the A/C Compressor with a S/H unit, gas recharge and Voila cold air! It was a bast^&* job , (Local indies did not want to know) It took me the best part of 3 days half of that time was due to the hose clips and their positions. The manual is wrong in quite a few instances, in sequence and missing info altogether. The Txn Oil heat exchanger removal and refitting is a nightmare. The Diesel is completely different to all the other models and advice from Petrol owners that have done the job is completely different as regards to the removal and refitting of the Compressor itself.

I still have a problem with the ACCU, On cool, one side is 5deg warmer than the setting, The M/S control to the switching FET is incorrect, the thermistor is OK and the components appear ok too, A glitch in the processor I presume, Anyway just setting it cooler compensates not that Her indoors notices as it is usually on full blast here in the summer.

BTW Karl's Guide really is the max for faultfinding the S-Type A/C system, It is virtually bullet proof and Karl is very forthcoming with advice etc. I did the job last spring (2021) after a hot summer with virtually no cooling A/C. Our saga should be on the .com site during the summer of 2020.

MM