ABS Failure, and others

[Big John]

Hi David

Pretty sure there is a fault in the offside front ABS sensor or its wiring loom.

Not an expert but my understanding is that the The Controller Area Network is how the various computers (modules) talk to each other and the Buses are how the "computer" bit of the module connects to the outside world, in this case the CAN. So those U0001- codes could indicate a fault in the module wiring, or just as likely a poor earth connection or even a low voltage event. Next step for me would be to see if the S/S is now working. If it is, I would get the ABS sensor sorted and have the codes cleared. Hopefully all sorted.

If the S/S is still not working and you have a new main battery (hope you have swapped like for like i.e AGM for AGM) then have a look at the secondary one as the S/S only works if both can cope with the stop/restart process. The little one's job is to supply a steady voltage to the sensitive components during an engine restart which is handled by the big battery. If the last time the S/S worked the voltage from the little one dropped that might have caused the U0001 DTCs

Finally if you have access to be able to regulalry use a charger I would invest in a Ctek for peace of mind. I also have the Ctek Battery sense bluetooth monitor on mine so I always know what the battery state is.

Good luck

John

[David Taylor]

Thanks for the advice, appreciate it. 

The S/S worked once, yesterday. It's a manual, so may just be my driving style. I've done what I think is right, so put in to neutral and apply handbrake etc. My car doesn't have a S/S battery. Though I swapped the battery like for like. It's a 65 plate and still have the original battery, so would be time for that to change soon anyway. 

I've reached out for quotes on the ABS sensor and hoping it's that. Otherwise it's a pricey loom for me 😞

I may regret not buying an extended warranty.

Unfortunately I live in flat, do can't run a charger to the car. I've invested in a solar trickle charger, which may help a tad. 

 

 

[Big John]

2 hours ago, David Taylor said:

Thanks for the advice, appreciate it. 

The S/S worked once, yesterday. It's a manual, so may just be my driving style. I've done what I think is right, so put in to neutral and apply handbrake etc. My car doesn't have a S/S battery. Though I swapped the battery like for like. It's a 65 plate and still have the original battery, so would be time for that to change soon anyway. 

I've reached out for quotes on the ABS sensor and hoping it's that. Otherwise it's a pricey loom for me 😞

I may regret not buying an extended warranty.

Unfortunately I live in flat, do can't run a charger to the car. I've invested in a solar trickle charger, which may help a tad. 

 

 

If you are like me you may find peace of mind in getting a ctek Battery sense: https://www.amazon.co.uk/CTEK-40-149-Vehicle-Battery-Monitor/dp/B0188TGF6W/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=CTEK+Battery+Sense+40-149&qid=1629981144&s=automotive&sr=1-1

At least then you will know when the battery is getting low and can take it for a good run. bluetooth range on mine is at least 20m through a window with line of sight to the boot of the car.

Hope the sensor sorts it.

John

[Big John]

On 8/26/2021 at 10:33 AM, David Taylor said:

Thanks for the advice, appreciate it. 

The S/S worked once, yesterday. It's a manual, so may just be my driving style. I've done what I think is right, so put in to neutral and apply handbrake etc. My car doesn't have a S/S battery. Though I swapped the battery like for like. It's a 65 plate and still have the original battery, so would be time for that to change soon anyway. 

I've reached out for quotes on the ABS sensor and hoping it's that. Otherwise it's a pricey loom for me 😞

I may regret not buying an extended warranty.

Unfortunately I live in flat, do can't run a charger to the car. I've invested in a solar trickle charger, which may help a tad. 

 

 

Just a thought but if using a solar charger make sure you also use a controller as most solar panel trickle chargers can output 18v which could fry your electrics. A controller fitted between the car and the solar panel will limit the output to about 13.5v