V6 Left-hand Bank

[Wrinkly]

When Jaguar and OBD11 codes refer to left-hand bank of the V6 is that the left bank when you stand in front of the car and look towards the engine?

I ask because on many occasions the left side of a car is referred to as being the nearside/passenger side.

Many Thanks And Best Wishes 

Regards, John

[Wrinkly]

19 hours ago, Wrinkly said:

When Jaguar and OBD11 codes refer to left-hand bank of the V6 is that the left bank when you stand in front of the car and look towards the engine?

I ask because on many occasions the left side of a car is referred to as being the nearside/passenger side.

Many Thanks And Best Wishes 

Regards, John

Have now found this link, which appears to answer the question and may be useful.

https://www.jaguarforum.com/threads/s-type-cylinder-numbering.102059/

Regards, John

[Russ68]

Hey John,

It's almost always the 'left' bank which is an issue on the S-Type, it was on mine when I bought it. She would run ok until under load when she stuttered and coughed and was not happy. Reason being you have to take the inlet manifold off to get at the ignition coils and spark plugs on that side. So I imagine most traders / mechanics just don't bother when it come to servicing, meaning I had some ancient ignition parts under there and you could too!

Good news is that the relatively low cost job transformed the car performance. I went for good quality coils and plugs, plus changed the inlet manifold gaskets I disturbed, she ran like new afterwards 👍

Good luck 😉 

[Wrinkly]

9 minutes ago, Russ68 said:

Hey John,

It's almost always the 'left' bank which is an issue on the S-Type, it was on mine when I bought it. She would run ok until under load when she stuttered and coughed and was not happy. Reason being you have to take the inlet manifold off to get at the ignition coils and spark plugs on that side. So I imagine most traders / mechanics just don't bother when it come to servicing, meaning I had some ancient ignition parts under there and you could too!

Good news is that the relatively low cost job transformed the car performance. I went for good quality coils and plugs, plus changed the inlet manifold gaskets I disturbed, she ran like new afterwards 👍

Good luck 😉 

Russ

My question had nothing to do with plugs, coils etc as they were all done about 200 miles ago and only because I had a warning about number 3 ignition coil having a problem. Although costing more, obviously, all six plugs and ignition coils and all inlet manifold gaskets were replaced with top quality parts. I do not believe in the cheapness of some of this Chinese manufactured parts that are available. At my age ( nearly 72) I have learned through the "university of life" that you only get what you pay for. If you are going to do a job, do it well, do it with quality products and it will be cheaper in the long run. I was advised because of the low mileage (62,000) only to do the No.3 cylinder. I am afraid I do not believe in this method of maintaining a classic I absolutely adore, see as the last of the true looking Jaguars and get tremendous pleasure from driving.

My reason for asking was that another "know it all", (I stress nothing to do with this Forum) and I think we have all come across one or two of them, was convinced that Jaguar was totally different in describing left bank from south bank. Like, why ?????????????. Almost as though we were talking about the River Thames in London and which was the North or South Bank.

The reason for establishing the correct interpretation was because I recently got a code error suggesting the emissions reading on the left bank CAT were not reading correctly. The car had only passed it`s MOT 350 miles before and had no issues or reports of any type. I am well aware of the fact that an MOT is as good as the person carrying out the test and is only truly valid at the time of the test. However having removed/reset the code it has not reoccurred as yet and I am not very likely. right or wrong, to do much about it until the car either plays up or fails an emission test.

Thanks for answering my post.

Beat Wishes and Regards, John

[Russ68]

No problem John, we sound of similar mind about proper maintenance and our love of the S-Type. Glad you sorted the issue and hope it stays fixed 👍

[Wrinkly]

On 8/31/2021 at 10:57 AM, Russ68 said:

No problem John, we sound of similar mind about proper maintenance and our love of the S-Type. Glad you sorted the issue and hope it stays fixed 👍

Russ

The yellow engine light has come on again and it is the same as before (18miles done). I.E. Left Bank Cat not within limits. With all the recent history explain in this thread I am surprised that it has raised it head yet again and so quickly.

As is written herein there was no mention of anything to do with emissions at recent (and low mileage since) its last MOT.

I have read elsewhere however that the problem may not be the actual (CAT) but related sensors, which I have no knowledge about at all. Feeling reluctant to go as far as replacing the CATs because of the very high price that they are. The car is showing no signs of any loss of performance or excessive exhaust or fumes of ant sort, in fact it is running extremely well.

Any further advice from anyone would be greatly appreciated.

Many Thanks and Regards, John

[O.T.H]

I had this with my X Type  my fitter was on the ball and it turned out to be a sensor on the  exhaust breaking down he changed it and been ok since??

[Wrinkly]

11 hours ago, O.T.H said:

I had this with my X Type  my fitter was on the ball and it turned out to be a sensor on the  exhaust breaking down he changed it and been ok since??

My understanding is that there are two sensors on each cat, one forward and one rear of the cat.

 My ODB11 does not specify if either of these is faulty only that there is a difference/imbalance in the reading on the left bank. Other than buying both sensors (are they the same????) and changing one at a time has anyone any idea how I can identify which sensor is or may be at fault?

Many thanks for this informative reply.

Regards and Best Wishes , John

[Wrinkly]

33 minutes ago, Wrinkly said:

My understanding is that there are two sensors on each cat, one forward and one rear of the cat.

 My ODB11 does not specify if either of these is faulty only that there is a difference/imbalance in the reading on the left bank. Other than buying both sensors (are they the same????) and changing one at a time has anyone any idea how I can identify which sensor is or may be at fault?

Many thanks for this informative reply.

Regards and Best Wishes , John

Forgot to give the code produced.

CODE : P0420 and reads, Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold Bank 1.

[JOE-DOT-COM]

hi

I dont think its the cat

sounds more like a bad connection somewhere

usually this can be a faulty lambda sensor, but as its passed mot, maybe not, worth checking all the connections and also ecu connections, sometimes they corrode and throw up intermittent faults

think you already gather L/H Bank, id R/H side looking from engine bay, L/H side from inside the car

ideally you want someone with Jaguar IDS/SDD to plug in, as when it throws up faults it usually logs it and a lot of other data, which might help find the fault

cheers

Joe

 

[Wrinkly]

On 9/5/2021 at 7:45 PM, JOE-DOT-COM said:

hi

I dont think its the cat

sounds more like a bad connection somewhere

usually this can be a faulty lambda sensor, but as its passed mot, maybe not, worth checking all the connections and also ecu connections, sometimes they corrode and throw up intermittent faults

think you already gather L/H Bank, id R/H side looking from engine bay, L/H side from inside the car

ideally you want someone with Jaguar IDS/SDD to plug in, as when it throws up faults it usually logs it and a lot of other data, which might help find the fault

cheers

Joe

 

Joe

Thank you very much for your recent thoughts and advice regarding the Code P0240 and reading I am getting. You mention a IDS/SDD to plug in.

Would this piece of equipment (link attached hereto) do the job of diagnosing the fault deeper/more specific. Being as my S Type is going to be a keeper for the rest of my "natural" (hopefully a probable 10 years at least) I would be prepared to invest in a diagnostic of this type if it was to be of more specific diagnosis detail than my Forseal OBD11 I currently use.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/223569021373?hash=item340dc089bd:g:5rMAAOSwmZBg22Ey

At this sort of price it would only be twice the price of a new Denso upstream Lambda Sensor. I have been given some advice by a technician, who is a friend of my Son in Law, that I should buy a new upstream Sensor and take a chance on the fact that it could well cure the problem, which in his view is where the problem is originating. Good if it happens to be the cure, but I feel I would like to attempt to diagnose the actual problem rather than just throw new parts at the job until something works.

Your obvious experience and knowledge of this model is appreciated and therefor your views and advice are likewise respected. I anxiously await your response to this post.

Best Wishes and Regards, John

[JOE-DOT-COM]

HI

Jaguar ids/sdd is software used by jaguar and used with a mongoose lead, can do everything jaguar can

its very good for fault finding, you can also use most descent code readers where you can monitor live data, that way you can monitor the 4 lambda sensors and see which one is failing when you get the code

also you could swap the upstream sensor with the other bank and see if the fault shift to the other side, then you will know which one it is for sure, also when you buy a new sensor, try to stick with denso sensor, after market sensors dont all ways work correct

cheers

Joe

[Wrinkly]

11 hours ago, JOE-DOT-COM said:

HI

Jaguar ids/sdd is software used by jaguar and used with a mongoose lead, can do everything jaguar can

its very good for fault finding, you can also use most descent code readers where you can monitor live data, that way you can monitor the 4 lambda sensors and see which one is failing when you get the code

also you could swap the upstream sensor with the other bank and see if the fault shift to the other side, then you will know which one it is for sure, also when you buy a new sensor, try to stick with denso sensor, after market sensors dont all ways work correct

cheers

Joe

Joe

Yet again good, sound and informative advice.

This particular diagnostic tool apparently does not work with Windows 10 , which I have. The seller has offered to supply FOC a piece of software that will make this possible and will give continued support regarding installation and use.

I feel this may be a good investment for future times and will probably make this purchase unless I get any negative reaction or advice about it.

Many thanks once more and Best Wishes, John

[JOE-DOT-COM]

hi

for diagnostic use you can download the software and run it via vmware, virtual image, ok for diagnostics only

but for programing modules, updates and programing keys and so on, its best to use on a dedicated window xp pro laptop, its far more stable, you can pick a laptop up for about £50, it the best software out there, you can do every thing jaguar can.

some Icarsoft code reader for Jaguar are also very good

cheers

Joe

[Wrinkly]

4 hours ago, JOE-DOT-COM said:

hi

for diagnostic use you can download the software and run it via vmware, virtual image, ok for diagnostics only

but for programing modules, updates and programing keys and so on, its best to use on a dedicated window xp pro laptop, its far more stable, you can pick a laptop up for about £50, it the best software out there, you can do every thing jaguar can.

some Icarsoft code reader for Jaguar are also very good

cheers

Joe

It did cross my mind to get another laptop to run this diagnostics, so having read this I shall attempt to find a good used Windows xp pro.

Thanks very much for this advice.

Regards and Best Wishes, John

[Wrinkly]

On 9/7/2021 at 9:06 PM, Wrinkly said:

It did cross my mind to get another laptop to run this diagnostics, so having read this I shall attempt to find a good used Windows xp pro.

Thanks very much for this advice.

Regards and Best Wishes, John

Joe 

Have purchase JLR/SDD diagnostics and a stand alone computer running Windows XP PRO 3 to run it on.

Also as an update to previous problem with Code P0420 reading Imbalance on Bank 1 Cat System. Have hopefully cured this with a New Denso Upstream Sensor. Car has done 16 miles to far with no yellow engine warning light. "Not counting the chickens before  they hatch" as when I have reset on previous occasions it has taken between 16 - 20 miles for the warning light to reappear. 

Best Wishes, John

[JOE-DOT-COM]

hi

hopefully cured, denso are oe and the best ones to fit

most after market ones wont work

cheers

Joe

 

[Wrinkly]

11 hours ago, JOE-DOT-COM said:

hi

hopefully cured, denso are oe and the best ones to fit

most after market ones wont work

cheers

Joe

 

Joe

I specifically purchased Denso due to your previous advice that they were OE and it was best to buy them. In fact not very much dearer than some unknown brands that can be obtained.

Many thanks and Regards, John

[Wrinkly]

On 9/13/2021 at 11:14 AM, Wrinkly said:

Joe

I specifically purchased Denso due to your previous advice that they were OE and it was best to buy them. In fact not very much dearer than some unknown brands that can be obtained.

Many thanks and Regards, John

Hi Joe

The Upstream Denso Lambda Sensor having been fitted has thrown the same Fault Code again at 20 miles, I.E. P0420 Catalytic Converter Bank 1 showing imbalance. Have now ordered the Downstream Denso unit in the hope of that being the cure for the Code Fault.

Just wanted to be sure of Bank 1: in my understanding it is the left bank as you stand in front of the car and look towards the engine (I.E. cylinders 1, 3 and 5).

Thanks again and Best Wishes, John.