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Hi all, With Peter's agreement, please find below, links to the official Jaguar S Type Workshop Manuals and Wiring Diagrams. They are in PDF format so easily viewable... and printable if you've enough paper ;) http://www.raistlin295.com/archive/download/jaguar/WSManual/WSManual.pdf http://www.raistlin295.com/archive/download/jaguar/Wiring/2002/S-Type%202002.5%20Elec%20Guide.pdf http://www.raistlin295.com/archive/download/jaguar/Wiring/2005/2005StypeElectrical.pdf http://www.raistlin295.com/archive/download/jaguar/Wiring/2006/2006STypeElectrical.pdf Perhaps, if found useful, a Mod could pin this thread somewhere?

Denis has sourced another complete Premium Sound system for the later S-Type. If you've ever heard the Premium system you will know it beats the socks off the standard system. He's offering it for £195 if anybody is interested and if it goes to a forum member he and I will do the complete installation free of charge, preferably in Penkridge or Wolverhampton or reasonably close. Installation, which will include modification to the fibre optic network (D2B), usually takes no more than two hours. The sub woofer parcel shelf is black. Anybody interested?

So I fitted some Powerflex Black Series polyurethane bushes to the lower front arms of my S-type the other week. Mine is the early type suspension so 2002.5 onwards cars will be different but I should think the same differences in ride/handling would apply. It all started with a noisy wheel bearing.. I already had a spare upright which I took the bearing and ball-joint out of back in June as covered by another thread. So I refurbished that ready to go on but I knew the big bushes at the front of the lower arms were poor and couldn't bring myself to fit new void bushes in their place. I have used poly bushes on various cars in the past and although I don't agree that they are better or even equal to rubber in all situations they should in theory be just fine in this application. Here are the arms. Ignore the one nearest as it's upside down. The one further away is as it would sit on the car, as you can see the little bush sits level with the wheel hub. The big one sits some way in front, about level with the tyre. Apparently these big bushes "never fail". I beg to differ. The rubber was even more degraded than shows in the picture. They still took some effort to remove though. The central rubber part pushed out with the hydraulic press quite easily but the aluminium outer shells had to be cut out. Cutting these shells out is really just slotting them so that they can be shrunk in diameter so they let go of the register. It requires accurate cutting but isn't difficult. As you can see in the two pictures above I've made two cuts and removed the bit between them. This can be necessary when the shell is thicker to give room for it to contract. It's best to make each cut a little at a time so that one isn't too much deeper than the other, this helps avoid pinching the saw blade. This is what the big bush was made of. The small bush was awkward. It's a two part bush but the central tube is flared at either end which doesn't make sense to me. I burned and cut the flange off one end so I could push the tube and hopefully the other half of the bush out, it worked. After cleaning up the registers I was ready to put the new bushes in. The big ones actually have the central hole off centre and it's important to get them properly aligned. To do this I marked the register and the smallest part of the bush with a Sharpie so I could keep it lined up as they went in.rim Pushing the new bushes in was uneventful. Just make sure you have all of the old one out. On the small bush I didn't, there was an aluminium shell still in the arm that looked for all the world like part of the arm.

Having fitted the arms and done a complete alignment adjustment the car it is now driving beautifully. Cornering is more stable and predictable with none of the wandering or bump steer like tendencies from before. The ride is a little coarser but it really is only on the sorts of slow country lanes where is doesn't matter much anyway. I would say that on the open road at decent speeds the ride is overall far better as the car feels far better planted on the road and doesn't wallow as much. I would even say that there is some feeling through the steering wheel, something the S-type seems to usually do a good job of preventing.. Not only is there more feel for what's going on with the tyres and road surface but the slight knock or judder that I would sometimes get through the wheel when changing direction on rougher roads is gone. Overall I'm very happy with them. None of the improvements I feel could really be judged scientifically as it's all just sensation but it feels better and that's good enough for me.

Hi all, just noticed my wheel nut key has broken.....can anyone advise on the best way to replace the key without changing the nuts and the hassle that will cause? Sorry the pics not brill but not easy to get a good one. The nut is domed and the key has four lugs on it 3 close together and one further round. Thanks in anticipation

Hi Saw this clip and though it was a great little clip of the S-type on top gear many years ago not the best quality, but the only one I could find link to clip CLIP cheers Joe