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Well this is how mine turned out after cleaning with the stuff above on a 12 year old car. At first I thought the same, that they were too far gone (and I'm not saying yours are not) but I didn't think they were recoverable. I was really surprised at the results - sorry, I'm not the best photographer:

If you are like me you may find peace of mind in getting a ctek Battery sense: https://www.amazon.co.uk/CTEK-40-149-Vehicle-Battery-Monitor/dp/B0188TGF6W/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=CTEK+Battery+Sense+40-149&qid=1629981144&s=automotive&sr=1-1 At least then you will know when the battery is getting low and can take it for a good run. Bluetooth range on mine is at least 20m through a window with line of sight to the boot of the car. Hope the sensor sorts it. John

It will be the buttons. I had the same issue and replaced them. Very tricky to do but solved my problem. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/for-Jaguar-X-S-XJ-XK-XJR-Type-4-Button-Remote-Key-Fob-Case-Repair-Refurb-Kit-/172182298119?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=710-127635-2958-0

Hi David Pretty sure there is a fault in the offside front ABS sensor or its wiring loom. Not an expert but my understanding is that the The Controller Area Network is how the various computers (modules) talk to each other and the Buses are how the "computer" bit of the module connects to the outside world, in this case the CAN. So those U0001- codes could indicate a fault in the module wiring, or just as likely a poor earth connection or even a low voltage event. Next step for me would be to see if the S/S is now working. If it is, I would get the ABS sensor sorted and have the codes cleared. Hopefully all sorted. If the S/S is still not working and you have a new main battery (hope you have swapped like for like i.e AGM for AGM) then have a look at the secondary one as the S/S only works if both can cope with the stop/restart process. The little one's job is to supply a steady voltage to the sensitive components during an engine restart which is handled by the big battery. If the last time the S/S worked the voltage from the little one dropped that might have caused the U0001 DTCs Finally if you have access to be able to regulalry use a charger I would invest in a Ctek for peace of mind. I also have the Ctek Battery sense bluetooth monitor on mine so I always know what the battery state is. Good luck John

Hi John found F32? as well check out video. As far as I know - I am not an expert- To use the cigarette lighter in any car even older cars you have had to turn the key to the accessory position for it to be able to work. They have never had constant power to them even when turned off because doing so causes unnecessary drain on the battery when accessories are not being used Would only be on if hardwired to battery If not fuse / relay assume it would be wiring fault? or unit itself? Best Regards, Julie.