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Welcome to the club, Dave. You know your Jaguars better than I do. I wanted a Jaguar in 1963 while I still had a Motor cycle. Cash enabled me to buy a few cars and a bit of good luck had me having 29 years of company cars. — they kept me going but I never bought a jaguar until 2011 when I bought an X Type ad then an s type in 2013 which I am delighted with and still have. Enjoy your car! Regards, Peter.

Hi everyone, thanks for all the advice I got from the forum on the DPF Full sign. i managed to clear the message off the screen and the engine came out of limp mode, so I’m back up and running with normal performance. One thing remains, which is the amber engine warning light. This came on a day or so after the DPF sign. It took a couple of trips to clear the DPF, so I am thinking the amber engine light was a result of the original DPF sign, but now it won’t clear. Other than taking it to my independent Jaguar guy and asking him to clear it, does anybody know of a nil or low cost alternative? I have seen various suggestions from buying £20 diagnostic tools to clear it and another was to disconnect the battery and that should reset it unless there is indeed some other (more serious) fault, in which case it will come back on. All suggestions welcomed. Thanks.

A useful response, thanks John. I'm booked in for a battery change, anyway, as S/S hasn't been working for the last 8 months. I hadn't really thought about it, just putting it down to me not 'activating' it properly. But if that doesn't solve things, then It'll be on to the wheel sensor next. Would be a real pain if that, and the TPMS, went at the same time. I don't have a reversing camera, only the audible sensor, which still works. That may also indicate it's not just a battery issue. I suspect I've got a duff battery, as well as some failed sensor.

Hi If you are getting 12.4 v on a cigarette lighter socket voltmeter with the car unlocked but not running the true resting voltage is probs 12.8v (fully charged). As soon as you unlock the car (and enable the socket) the car is drawing around 4 Amps and voltage drops significantly. As mentioned before, if S/S works battery is fine. I would be looking at an ABS wheel sensor as cause, along with a fault in the TPMS which luckily I don't have as they are very tempremental. One approach to sorting the TPMS is to over-inflate the tyres and then reduce pressures back to normal. If that does not work it is most likely a wheel Tyre pressure sender at fault. Systems like traction control rely on knowing how fast each wheel is turning, so a faulty ABS wheel sensor (which is what measures each wheels speed) will generate a fault which forces other functions that rely on its input to fail and throw a warning light so you know that function is not available. A failed parking sensor will switch off the reversing camera as well and alert you that you are "on your own" as there is a fault so don't blame us if you hit something when reversing! Good luck John

Thanks. I borrowed a similar one from my brother, over the weekend. I got a reading of 12.4v, with the car on but not running. Currently have a solar charger on the jump points, so let's see. I drove a good 200+ miles yesterday, to British Motor Show and back. Unfortunately that didn't turn the lights off. So I'm worried it's a little more serious. If that doesn't charge the batter then what will!?

Thanks for your comments guys, just to update, I put my meter back on the battery cold (both batteries) and they both show 12.3-12.4 v present, I then idled the car for 10 mins, checked again and got readings of 14.8v on both, I then pulled off the battery by way of lights wipers and heater, checked again and got 14.8v again, do I conclude my battery and alternator are healthy? My diagnostic print out shows ABS fault “ permanent “ among the many other historic and intermittent codes so as per big John’s comment above I’m going to focus there, should have my OBD2 reader tomorrow so I’ll check, record error codes reset and check again, and report back, thanks again guys

Check with Halfords what the warranty period is on the battery. A replacement battery in a 5.5 year old car would seem to indicate that there is more wrong than the battery. My car was 12 years old when I replaced the original batteries and only because stop start was not working that normally indicated that they are on their way out.

Any advice more than welcome 🙏 I to have the amber engine warning light on followed by just about every warning message cycling thro on my dash, I’ve heard the XF is very susceptible to battery issues, I took it for a diagnostic check at halford and ended up with 3 pages of intermittent faults, also when these warning messages come on my jag wants to shut down and sticks in drive mode and won’t let me set to park until I switch it off for a while (5 mins) also have an audible warning. Checked the battery and I notice it isn’t a factory fitted battery, it’s a Halfords AGM 019 battery so I’m think my car is 5 1/2 years old and has already had a replacement battery, any idea where I go from here pls? Do I get another battery 🤷🏻‍♂️, if so what is best money can buy for my XF? Help