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I enjoy looking in the members gallery and encourage other JOC members to post photos of their Jag, I thought a thread of Front Ends would be good to see, with a little detail if you wish. Here’s my XF which I purchased in October 2023.

a front end shot from earlier this year 😀 tows the caravan beautifully

...and my pair.... I've had the Sportbrake for 6 years and the X-Type for 12 months. It still has under 27k on the clock, serviced every 12 months and an interior like new. It even had the previous owners leather driving gloves in the glove box along with a bag of Werthers 🙂 It now has new sills and is fully Lanoguarded underneath. Failed 2 MOTs in its life, once for headlight aim and once for sills in 2017. Currently working on the original wheels but got some refurbed X-Triple 5 on at the moment with Goodyear Vector 3 all seasons.

Nice one Ian! This is my XK8. I've only had her for about 3 months. Endless grin!!

Steve, just as an aside, I know no longer pertinent to your original question, but: a good turn out at an X150 seminar organised by the JEC last weekend. One of the key points related to oil services for the 5L V8. David Marks was the technical/ mechanical guru delivering the presentation His advice was that the single most important maintenance step for the engine was that annual or 6k miles oil replacement/service was not just recommended, but in his experience ,essential for the long and trouble free life of the engine. Further to the regime, critical too that the oil used is CASTROL EDGE PRO, 0-20W, which is specifically recommended for JLRV8 engines. This oil even if your filler cap states 5-20, as Jaguar later a made advisory that 0-20 is the recommended grade.

Good Morning Dr Daryl, Welcome to Jaguar Owners😊 Lots of great advice here if needed from the site and members. Best Regards, Aubrey.

There is a another post from the same chap (Steve) in the New Owners section where the car he is looking at is a "low" miles (28,000) 2009 facelift X-150 with a sketchy service history and these 2 x faults showing - from a private seller, meaning nil warranty. Asking price is £16.5k and whilst the Pedestrian System can be the front sensors, my experience is that the explosive cartridges are the most common fault - they need not have deployed (making the bonnet unable to close) but they do have age related deficiency's that requires them to be replaced. For that price and poor presentation / service record, I would walk away, there are plenty good examples available with more protection. N6 JMX

Hi Dan, sorry for your loss but I hope you find the JOC community able to assist you with your task. Appreciate you are new to the Forum, but if you explore the Forum Pages a little deeper, you will find that there is a specific section for dealing with the sale of cars. In the Forum front page, scroll to the bottom of the viewable pages and you will find there a "Sale" section. Make a post in there, listing the exact model of car including year, engine size, fuel type, mileage, condition, etc, Ideally, you should also provide an indication of the sale price you are looking for from the car - sorry I can't help you with that as I am not knowledgeable on the S-type models. You will also be able to attach some photos to show the car, ideally in a good light and a suitably picturesque location - driveway is not ideal but better than nothing. Show photos of the side, three-quarter view, rear and front. Show the fitted wire wheels in a separate image close-up. Provide an image of the interior, front and back, and one of the boot and engine bay - bonnet raised. Give mention of the MoT history, i.e. does it have a current MoT and the expiry date. Mention the service history - where it was performed and at what intervals. Let folks know how long the car was with your dad and how he used it - daily driver, weekend car, show car, etc. Hope this helps guide you to make a listing in the correct location of the site. Good Luck. N6 JMX

Lower the window by 11". Remove the door card and sticky foam, cut thru the flexible glue. Loosen the two window clamp bolts and remove the glass, always use a suction cup to hold the glass. Remove the speaker box then disconnect the connectors from the door lock and window motor - access the window connector via the port in the door. Unbolt and remove the window slider frame. I have removed the window motor and gearbox but it is not strictly needed, using T25 remove the DC motor and worm drive. Clean the shaft and apply a mid to heavy grease. The light oil used by Jaguar dries and there is metal contact, greatly slowing the DC motor. With that done replace, paying attention to the brush contacts. Re assembly is a reverse of the procedure. With the glass now in keep the window bolts loose and close the window fully, now tighten the glass clamps. Result: one rejuvenated window motor.

Hi Steve, as Mark has said above, it really does come down to a personal "feel" for all things considered. The 5 litre engine is VERY robust and reliable, but a gap of 3 years in the servicing (at least twice now, would make me think long and hard. Ideally, the oil should be changed annually, irrespective of the mileage between service intervals, but nothing much else in the service regime is such an issue. My mind would think that if the previous owner(s) had skimped on getting the servicing completed - which is not at all a cheap item at a main dealer (circa £600 each visit), what else has been skimped on, so look extremely carefully at all other aspects of the vehicle before committing hard cash into the deal. With the car at coming on 10 years old, the tyres could be needing changed - 5 years is about it on these cars, irrespective of the tread remaining. The tyres should also be premium branded such as Dunlop Sport Maxx in J, for Jaguar, specification. Check the tyres carefully and if they are mismatched, or not premium, have a rethink. Also check the tyre dates on the sidewall's - refer to the Kwik Fit website for information on that if you are not sure. Also at 10 years old, the battery could well be due for replacing, again a 5 year interval between battery replacement is a good proactive / preventative maintenance option. Uncover the battery - it's in the boot behind a trim panel depending on coupe or convertible - and if it is still an original Jaguar stickered battery, once again think about the skimping that may have taken place. These cars have large / expensive brake discs and callipers and with missed servicing regime, the pads could well be seized in the callipers and the discs scored or warped - check on the test drive for any braking issues such as vibration or long pedal. Often, low mileage cars can be more trouble than a well maintained and cherished high miler - such as Mark has. If you do go ahead with the purchase, I hope you have years of trouble free motoring. They are fantastic machines with Supercar performance at Mondeo money. N6 JMX

I have great news S type jaguar 3.0 2001 Y554BPA coolant tank, fitted today no longer waiting for part jaguar has got this coolant tank in stock.

Hi Sheela, With an 8 year old battery it is simply waiting to fail. These modern cars have so many electronics going on in the background that the quiescent battery drain can be quite high and a car like yours left to sit around for a week or so will have a low battery - even when the battery is relatively new. The recommendation is typically to replace the battery in a Modern Jaguar at 5 years. If I were in your position, I would be looking for a new battery replacement and ensure you get a premium battery for a premium car, AND from a reliable supplier. There have been a number of reports of batteries failing after only a few months, so you want the back-up of a premium supplier for a no quibble exchange. Note that if you plan to change the battery yourself, then the car's ECU needs to be "informed" via a Jaguar diagnostics system that a new battery is in place in order that it can reset the charging rates, N6 JMX

A fantastic period piece featuring the iconic E-Type Jaguar (well what else are you going to use in a road movie). This fantastic film produced by Pirelli using an e-type (XKE) Jaguar to demonstrate their range of Cinturato Tires. By the time this film was made the Pirelli Cinturato range had already been available for over a decade.Pirelli’s Cinturato range of tires dramatically changed people’s perception of how good tires could be. They improved the handling of cars like an e-type Jaguar, when fitted with these progressive sports car tires. https://www.cinturato.net/tortoise-and-hare.html?fbclid=IwZXh0bgNhZW0CMTAAAR2gKn11c8-xaXDe3CsA4XlIcw6wMfdGqFki-z6VEGXrpr_u8USMJdKjVm8_aem_qOpi8lKqwyFk5IjgbhXVWw

Here's one of mine on the original plates :

Sounds like a busy week

Nice to have met you too. Glad we managed to park in the shade.🙂 Hope you had a good journey back tp Norfolk. Safe motoring.

Hi every one I’ve got some good news the alternator and battery have brought the beast back to life. I would like to thank you all for your help. I’m a happy bunny again

Hi Phil Assuming your purchase date was 1st June 2024 and not 1st June 2014 you need to go straight back to the dealer you bought it from. They are legally bound under the Sale of Goods Act 1979 to provide that "goods delivered or sold must be of satisfactory quality and fit for purpose". First recourse is to give them the opportunity to sort it out. Regards John

Had a great time at Bridgnorth Rugby club with ARC events Classic car show. Great weather and lots of different marques of cars, including those from Shropshire Jaguars Owners, who helped run the event. Exhibitor tickets sold out before the event, it was very well attended and the atmosphere was superb . Any one who lives in Shropshire who is interested in local meetings and trips with SJO, please contact me for more details. Our next big event is Ludlow Race Course in June, a bigger and even better event at a fantastic venue. Food Available, Bar, stalls, Entertainment and of course beautiful Jaguars. See Events section in Jaguar Owners for details. We can offer a discount on show tickets to Jaguar Owners Members. https://www.facebook.com/reel/1553119958580767/

As an S-Type owner, you'll be aware (I guess) of how sensitive the electronics is to low battery voltage. You'll maybe not know though, what you're expected to do after dis-connecting and re-connecting the battery. I've put together a PDF document which takes you through the procedure step by step. Nothing that isn't readily available elsewhere but just gathered together and (in my view) logically ordered into a single reference. It also includes how to get the audio system working when you don't have the security code I've been asked for it so many times that I though I'd make a thread just for access to that document so here it is:- Battery reset.pdf

I named my 2019 XJL "Tata" as in "See you later." New to me a month ago. 😁

Hi Ian Yes here she is, now I've got original wheels taking up space in my bedroom. It makes getting up in the dark very tricky.

Hi Karl, that is strange. Have you managed to get a code reader to see if there are any stored codes held in the "brain"? Incidentally, when you disconnect the battery, touch the negative cable to the positive terminal / cable which will discharge any residual capacitance in the system. I can't understand why the multiple disconnect and reconnect of the battery ultimately encourages it to start. In terms of the not starting, even a modern car only needs 3 things to start, air, fuel and a spark. Assuming you have a decent spark as you indicate it runs okay once started, it might be time to look at the fuel supply. Additionally, air leaks on the inlet side can create a problem - try a smoke test to see if there are any leaks. Good luck. N6 JMX

For future info, where the vehicle is fitted with an Auxiliary Battery, this feeds the electronics whilst the vehicle is operating in start / stop mode, maintaining a constant 12V supply to the sensitive electronics. If you find, over time, that the start / stop function fails to operate, it can be due to either battery beginning to fail. The main battery obviously provides the capacity to physically crank start the vehicle, whilst the Auxiliary battery provides the stable voltage. Too many restarts in a short space of time, as in crawling traffic, will drop the main battery to the point where it automatically switches off the stop / start functionality until such time as the main battery has recharged itself with engine running. Typically a main battery in a stop / start vehicle will be of the AGM style, and 5-years should be considered as the typical lifespan of the battery before replacement becomes a need. N6 JMX

Hi I'm new to the club and the xf is the first jaguar I've owned I'm open to any help and advice thanks

Hi Graeme, message received and the instructions have been emailed to you. Good luck. N6 JMX

Myton Jaguar Parts https://www.myton.parts/jaguar-parts Mention 'Jaguar Owners Club' for a discount

I'm reluctantly selling my beautiful XJ TDV6 that I have had the pleasure of owning for the last four years and have had 40k miles of smiling driving! Many trips to France for skiing and wine buying. A really good car that just wafts along. Fully maintained including recent cam belt change. Just had an MOT which had a few jobs but all done along with a service. Please call me to discuss history. Price: £5,950 OVNO Location: Devon Nick 07968 186559

Hi Dias and Sheela. Jim is absolutely correct. Your cars are very heavy battery users and at 5 years you should be looking at replacement as a precaution unless you are prepared for it to fail at the most inconvenient of times 🙂 If you are only doing short(ish) journeys the car will not have chance to fully charge the battery. Unless you are doing long runs every couple of days, I would be looking to use a battery maintainer once a week (I use a Ctek). Only comment on Jims advice would be to add that if you don't "update" the car that a new battery has been added the car will eventually work it out for itself as it "checks" the battery every few months by discharging it down to 75% capacity by limiting charge voltage to 12.2v. This is another reason to use a maintainer, as if the car has just done a "check" when you park up for a few days your battery may well already be down to 75% of its potential capacity. Another thing to look out for is if the Stop/Start works as the car will only Stop/Start when it is sure there is enough battery capacity to re-start. Regards John

I plan to sell my XK 140 FHC RHD. It has been in my possession for over 30 years, but because of me getting older, and making less use of the car, and hence driving out less, I feel that there comes a time to say goodbye. The car is in 2361 Warmond, The Netherlands but is originally imported from England before I bought it. The car has the steering wheel on the right side. The car has been refurbished during the time that I had it and is in a good condition. I have done club meetings in The Netherlands, and several tours abroad. Attached I am sending some photographs as well as the Jaguar Heritage certificate with details of the car. I can be contacted by email: [email protected] or else by mobile phone +31 655736676. I hope to find some interest Kind regards Peter Uyttewaal

With the potential damage to the old girl, my head say it is probably sensible to move on 😞 A quick look on Autotrader and other sites suggest a like for like replacement at between £2k and 12k depending on mileage and condition. Just a guess but you are almost certainly looking at north of £5k for a rebuild. However if you swap it, you are then buying an unknown and he has already invested heavily in the car so sorting the engine may be the best route. Bottom line is how much is it worth to him and can he afford the repairs? If he can I would start looking at an engine rebuild (I rescued a 2003 X-Type with 26k miles from this site for fun - and £250 and spent around £2k on sorting it (body and sills) but now have a car which I will keep as long as I can. Essentially one for the heart v head v wallet to sort 🙂 A quick search through Google suggests the garage the car is already at is probably as good as any in the area so I would be inclined to be guided by them. Good Luck, and keeping my fingers crossed you decide to "pay the vet bill" for the old cat...

Thanks yeah I guess it's the piece behind the thermostat pump, that bolts to engine. Replacing the whole thermostat housing assembly, and then I'll move to the pump. He did say he had replaced it not long, the pump, but from experience sometimes things just go bad... But yeah my beautiful Jag will be sitting til I fix her. My daughters not too happy as I'm using her car, but with what I paid, I'm not mad, just frustrated his 'fix' didn't work.

Hi All, I’ve posted some photos in the gallery under “Simply Jaguar 2024” if you want to take a look

The wifes F Type after a machine polish and cermaic coating, affectionately known to her as Rupert 🙄 I personaly run a new Defender from tractor division known as Dave.

Struggling to find part numbers MJB1341AC and MJF1346AA ... my usual go to Barretts are not coming back with any information. Nearside front suspension arm and bush. Any help out there in XK8 land?

I am selling my late father's collection of Jaguar car related memorabilia including Le Mans 24 Hours era. - Large quantity of Jaguar Driver owners club magazines and a few other Jag mags, including one set in binder. - Jaguar VHS historic video tape selection - Jaguar hardback book - Framed prints of XJ-220 & XK8 - Classic Jaguar picture made from clock parts - Jaguar Drivers Club dvd - Business card holder in case - Jaguar car brochures - Leaping Jaguar emblem metal model - Jaguar oddments like car badge, postcards, keyring, sew-on patches, matchbox, pouches, etc £50 for the lot - not looking to separate. Cash on collection only from Woodford Green IG8 area - no shipping, PayPal or bank transfers

Hi Jay, well the rearmost hanger definitely looks shot, so replacing that would be a first step I reckon. Not so sure as to why the rattling ceases when you clamp the gap in the hanger back together. Unless there is a metal to metal contact point somewhere in the same area. N6 JMX

Please note that when you replace the battery, you will need to "tell the car" that a new battery has been installed. This allows the battery control module to reset the alternator charging rates. This is achieved via the OBD port and a plugged in suitable code reader, which most garages should be able to undertake. N6 JMX

Hi Ross Are you certain that the booster pack you used was fully charged, and powerful enough to start the engine? Re-reading your original post in isolation I would say dodgy battery. A decent starter pack will only require engaging "Boost" if it is unable to detect a voltage in the vehicle battery. To then only do a couple of turns with a fully charged starter pack suggest either the starter pack is not powerful enough (or is itself flat) OR their is a massive short when the starter is engaged. Just because a battery reads over 12v at rest does not mean it is OK. My wifes Skoda failed to start last week. Started fine with my Noco GB50 attached but initial quick test by garage said battery was OK and at 80%. Only when tested again 2 days later did it show as knackered. New battery and now running fine. Is it possible to try a jump start from another car with heavy duty jump cables?

Hi wonder if anyone can help me. I recently bought a Daimler double six from a salvage yard. It was a none runner but in beautiful condition. It’s now running perfectly. The vehicle is a Japanese import which has never been registered in the uk. The salvage yard bought it from a deceased estate so we literally have no paperwork whatsoever apart from what I think is a shipping note in Japanese lol. Can anyone advise me how to register the car in England?? I’m willing to pay for any advice that will help me. Yours faithfully Dave Webster

Hi Guillaume, welcome to the Forum. The XJS is a great car and I had a V12 Convertible back in the day, which we used to undertake road trips to Europe, mainly Italy. I live in Scotland, near Aberdeen in the North East of the country, so if you have any questions or need advice on visiting Scotland, just send me a PM and I will try my best to help. N6 JMX

We have a one sided display of a Jaguar XJ-X350 on castors that is free to anyone wishing to organise transport

Hi, Dave Hope you’re keeping well (never sure whether to “quote” or just reply to the topic lol). I completely blanked it off at the throttle body and where the pipe meets the — cooler(?), and removed the two pipes completely. So, four plates in total for the S Type (X2004). Not sure if the X Type is the same. I got no light or anything, and I didn’t remove the throttle body butterfly, because I wasn’t sure how, even though others advise to do so. Not sure if this makes a difference or not. I did some research on my model and discovered that deleting the EGR from the ECU isn’t necessary. However, if the garage is going to sort all that out for you, then let them get on with it. Maybe they’ll discover it’s unnecessary. I dunno. I’d have to research the X Type to know. Not sure if it was related, but I got an “unusal flow” (or something like that) alert recently. I removed the throttle body, checked the butterfly actuator, tightened the blanking plates, refitted everything, and now everything is fine again. unrelated to the EGR, but as an aside, I recently replaced the glow plugs (bit of a nightmare job) and the last one snapped off. So now I have to figure out how to remove that. Oh, joy. Incidentally, it seemed that the ones on the left bank(?) - passenger side - were all seized and dirty. Not sure if this is a sign something is wrong. I’m still getting coolant loss, particularly when I ride her hard. Mechanic found nothing after pressure test, and I did a block test and got a negative result for gasket failure. I suspect the heater core needs to be removed. I also recently replaced the transmission fluid and filter and reset the TCM/TCU — doing that on your back is a bar-steward lol. keep me up to speed on everything, please, Dave. I’m interested to know how everything goes, and would like to help, if I can. All the breast Marty 😉

Hi Dave, thank you for being good enough to take time to take and send these pics. After the weekend settling of the overheating event I have decided to purchase a new top hose and heater control valve and have them fitted. I shall be putting forward to my guardian angel a compression test done and also a cooling system pressure test. Also if possible flow test the rad as well. I think this is the best way forward for now. I've also bought a new radiator expansion tank cap. Thanks again for all you help, regards, Tony.

Hi I'm looking to do CCF edits. Any recomendation on what and where to buy? Thanks

There's usually a filter on the pump inlet which is where the pump fits into the reservoir. Not all cars have it so yours may not or perhaps you haven't pulled the pump out yet? Either way if your drivers side jet only dribbles but the passenger one is fine, the problem is likely to be a blocked jet, usually you can clear it with a needle but i often remove the jets and soak them in a strong solution of vinegar and boiling water - an aerosol cap is usually big enough to do it, drop the jet in and cover it in vinegar then top up with boiling water to about half full. Leave it for a while (overnight if you can) then remove, rinse in clean water and refit. Usually unblocks them. When i first got my Honda, the rear washer jet didn't work, that was blocked and i could see gunge in the pipework so fitted a small filter in-line. Soon after the fronts blocked up, i renewed them and added the same type of filter : https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/234980007066 For under £4, it saves a lot of grief and if it blocks, it can be removed, stripped and cleaned and rebuilt and refitted. 😉 😄

Excellent, thorough job 👍

Hi all, thanks for the welcome.

Can you please report your findings for me as I'm very interested in the outcome. So far I've replaced wheels, tyres and have had the wheels balanced for the umteenth time and still not really making things any better. Would be much appreciated 👍