Jaguar Owners Club

Hi Rob.....welcome to the Club It would probably be best to obtain a data only SIM as there should be good deals through companies such as 3 or Tesco for 20GB data packages. Good to have you onboard Cheers, Trevor

How did you get on with it....did they replace the whole pedal box assembly?

Hi Chris....how did you get on with this issue? What was the conclusion?

How did you get on with having one fitted?

Damned unfortunate! How did you get on with rectifying the damage?

Please let us know how you get on and what the conclusion is, thanks

Let us know how you get on with this and how the engine system upgrade affects performance, etc

I wonder if it is the coolant temperature sensor which is giving a false signal which in turn would control the ignition and injection and this is causing it. You can test it with a cheap scanner which shows the engine temperature as it warms up.

Hi Barry....welcome to the Club I would scrutinise the service history and see that everything has been maintained at the correct time/mileage intervals. Otherwise, not sure of any issues that would lead to premature failure of components if it has been maintained and also driven correctly over its life so far. Let us know how you get on with acquiring it and ensure that you get a good warranty with it if purchasing from a dealer. Cheers, Trevor

Hi Ashley....welcome to the Forum It's a tough one....although the water pump is not part of the cambelt setup (which is when you would definitely replace it regardless of whether it is leaking or not) it is in the general area of the cambelt and by the time you have the front of the engine stripped back then it would be prudent to replace it at the same time. I would negotiate a discounted price to replace the water pump whilst they are in the same area, which should save quite a bit on the labour. A philosophy to bear in mind is that the water pump bearing has done the same amount of work that the tensioner and guide pulley bearings have done over the 100k miles.....why wouldn't you replace it? Let us know how you get on with it

It looks like a boot-up screen test for RGB but not sure why it would just pop up Would definitely contact the dealer to enquire just in case it is a warning that a system is about to go faulty.....it may have stored a code for this error

Hi Paul....welcome to the Club I'm not surprised you're happy with the car's performance, it has a great engine under the bonnet. Not sure about searching the specification options but as Peter has mentioned, it would be worth chatting to the dealer who should be able to print out a spec sheet for you. Good to have you onboard and enjoy the Jag! Cheers, Trevor

I thought there was 200% import duties when purchasing a new Jaguar in China?

Hi Peter Your membership is due on 2nd October 2019....you should receive a reminder invoice before the due date which you can pay directly but if you are on a PayPal recurring subscription then please do not pay the invoice as payment will be taken automatically as membership renews. Regards, Trevor

Here are a couple of links I found on eBay....there may be others out there that are cheaper if you cross reference the individual part numbers listed in the previous post link. Also, you could always sell it on afterwards and get most of the money back therefore a lot cheaper option https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Crankshaft-Crank-Puller-Pulley-Set-Jaguar-Land-Rover-3-0lt-V6-5-0lt-V8/183595829110?hash=item2abf2a0776:g:5dgAAOSwRbpcG3Qi https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_odkw=land+rover+3.0+MASTER+CRANKSHAFT+DAMPER+REMOVER+SET&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=+Crankshaft+Crank+Puller+Pulley+Set+Jaguar+Land+Rover+3.0lt+(V6)+%26+5.0lt+(V8)&_sacat=0

Found this reference to the kit...which also fits the Land Rover 3.0 litre V6 https://www.hinodetools.com/upload/instruction/AF0912 INSTRUCTION.pdf

It shouldn't be a major issue if the sump has enough space to clear the subframe. I would personally try nipping up the sump bolts first to see if that cures the leak. Be sure to only nip the bolts and not tighten them too firmly....best use a torque wrench to tighten them correctly (as far as I can determine 12lbs is around 15nm which should be more than tight enough)

Hi Ady....welcome to the Club Long may you enjoy your Jaguar and hopefully you will be trouble-free ownership for many years. Cheers, Trevor

That would definitely cause the lack of air getting directly into the engine and the silicon hose would be much more beneficial and probably cheaper

Hi Terry...welcome to the Club Good to have you onboard Cheers, Trevor

Hi John....welcome to the Club Does sound like mounts are failing again after two years....if it cured it then it is possible it is the same issue once more Let us know how you get on with it. Cheers . Trevor

Hi Alan I have moved your (this) post into the X-Type section as more members with this model of Jaguar are likely to read the post and hopefully offer some assistance. At first thought, it does sound like driveshaft(s) but I would definitely get it checked in a garage first to eliminate the shafts or even wheel imbalance....hopefully a much cheaper result if its just that! This could occur at around 60mph and is easily rectified by rebalancing the front wheels. Let us know how you get on with it all. Cheers, Trevor

Hi Brian....welcome to the club Sounds like it could be a body control unit programme setting, I'm sure something that your local dealership could resolve quite quickly and cheaply. Let us know what you find Good to have you onboard Cheers, Trevor

Hi Kirk....welcome to the Forum It sounds like the master cylinder is applying the pressure to the rear brakes (unless there is a compensator valve on the rear suspension). It would be quite easy to diagnose by releasing the pressure on the rear brake lines attached to the Master Cylinder by cracking off the unions and if the brakes release then the problem is with the Master Cylinder. Be careful to carefully crack the unions loose as brake fluid will be expelled. Also best to cover any paintwork and have a watering can handy to pour over any fluid to neutralise it. If this does not produce any results then I would look at the servo being instrumental in applying pressure to the brake pedal....but if this were the case then you would imagine the front brakes to be applied and not the rears. Let us know how you get on with it.

That's great news and thanks for feeding the information back, it's certainly a great help for anyone with this issue. Happy Motoring !