FazerScotty

Thanks Dave - I'll check at the weekend.

Hi Dave, Can you post a picture of the offending item - I'm having similar issues with the wife's 2.2D Auto and it maybe the same issue as yours. Cheers

Any damage to the plastic covered loom maybe an indication that the wiring is damaged internally. Other than that it would be a door card off job.

Have you had a chance to check the loom in the hinge area of the passenger door?

Yes, I thought mine was all fine and dandy. Had the same issues as yourself - £15 isn't a huge amount to pay out to fix something on a Jag is it? When I took the key apart, there appeared to be a chemical residue on the PCB. This may have had something to do with it?

I would think the remote is on its last legs. Just replaced mine from ebay - £15.49.

I've got a 2.2d estate, auto, 2008, 17" Alloys - no sunroof & a 2.2d saloon, auto, 2008, 18" Alloys - with a sunroof

Following on from this event - the local fire brigade came and hosed down the car, starting with the back of the engine/bulkhead area. Anyhow, returned the car to service following a check out at the garage which had performed the wheel bearing change. They couldn't find anything wrong. Used the car to commute from Worcester to Selby, approx. 150 miles mainly on the motorway. Whilst driving up to Selby, the orange DPF regeneration lamp came on - twice. I didn't give it a second thought, other than, that's never happened before in 30K of driving. The following day, whilst driving in the local area of Selby, the Red DPF lamp came on. This would reset itself by switching the ignition off and back on, but would re-illuminate within 3-4 miles. I drove back to Worcester, stopping periodically to reset the DPF light, however, the EML light also joined the party. Following day, bonnet up, I discovered the EGR to Intercooler was split - this was replaced, however after clearing the EML light the DPF light would still come on. Everything I have read at this point is saying that the DPF is either full and won't regenerate anymore or its broken! New DPF purchased online, new DPF temperature sensor (couldn't get the old one out) and I'm ready to go. Fitted all the new shiney bits and heyho, within 4 miles the red DPF light was back on. Disconnected the battery, reconnected and all's well - just as well - the local Jag dealer wanted the best part of £1800 plus 6 hours of labour to do what I've done with £280 and a few hours of my time. Happy Days.... 😎

So, today, I put my trusty 2.2D Auto into a local garage to have the offside front wheel bearing replaced. It had started grumbling a few weeks back, so before anymore mileage went on, thought, best get this sorted. Picked the car up from the garage, drove the three miles home - everything seemed to be good. 30 minutes later, I'm on the phone calling the local fire brigade as there is smoke coming from under the bonnet and from beneath the car! Smouldering put out by firemen, they stayed around to make sure it was cold - even jacked the car up so they could get access underneath. No evidence of anything combustable. Garage owner has come out and crawled around underneath - he can't see anything either, so the car is going back tomorrow to go on the ramps for a thorough looking at. A question - could a DPF (not sure if I've even got one fitted) get that hot when regenerating, that it smoulders? I done approximately 30K over the last 14 months so it can't be through lack of use!

I have just encountered a similar situation, however a "friendly" mechanic managed to lose mine key completely! If you get really stuck and don't want to go to the dealer, get a cut off tool and cut a slot in the top of the locking wheel nut dome. Using a cold chisel and a big hammer, you can then shatter the dome. This gives you access to the stud, which can be removed using stud removers from Machine Mart. I don't think the dealer will be helpful - the last I heard was that there is no real way of identifying the locking wheel nuts on the X-Type. I did the above trick on all 4 wheels and fitted normal nuts.

I am not laughing (cos I did the same) - have you tried pushing the stalk away from you...…….

Steve, the only issue I had with the drive belt on the left was when the crankshaft pulley decided to break up. That then shredded the belt. May pay to get a bright light down on that side of the engine and have a close look.

Steve, Sounds like the belt driving the PAS pump has failed - this also drives the water pump! (Or the PAS pump has failed and taken out the water pump in someway?) I replaced both on mine at the same time. As you look at the engine, from in front of the car, the belt concerned is on the right hand side as opposed to the drive belt for the alternator & A/C on the left. Good Luck

Thanks for all of the responses. Took a while to look through the pages on the forum and this snag comes up quite a lot, with varying resolutions. Yesterday I took a look under the bonnet. Checked for anything broken/split etc. Removed the clip on the turbo actuator arm and lo and behold the movement is a little notchy. Clip refitted and the actuator end has been well and truly "coppaslipped". Couldn't see the turbo end in detail - in the aviation industry we have a product called "Mouse Milk", which is used to free off and lubricate turbo actuators etc on large piston engines. Might give that a whirl (if I remember to ask the storeman!). I'm going to run it with branded diesel (Shell/BP) as opposed to Tesco's/Sainsburys. When I fill up tomorrow morning, I shall add some of this stuff.

Just picked up a 2008, 2.2 Auto Estate. Fantastic drive, however, every now and then, with no consistency, it trips into limp mode, glow plug light flashing with gearbox fault illuminated in the message window. Pull over, turn off the ignition resets everything, however, it can trip out again, with no warning, i.e. sometimes as I crest a hill and back off the throttle or even when pressing the accelerator gently to pull out on the motorway. Can't see anything mechanical - and no error codes show on the OBD scanner. Any pointers?