piria33

Sure will do! I wasn't able to acquire a new shaft/CV joint. R&R CV's don't have stock and other suppliers wanted a huge amount of money for a half shaft. There was only one supplier for the window type reluctor rings for my model. reluctorrings.com. About 48 pounds each and come in 2 sizes for mine. Had to buy 2 sizes as nobody could confirm the size, 88.9 or 90.0mm inner diameter. They'll refund me once I send the unused one back. They are an improved version over stock. Much stronger. I might just swap the unused one for the size on the nearside and get both done in 2 visits. Once they start to stretch with the rust its only a matter of time before they become so warped or just snap. You've seen how rust on rods within concrete walls split the concrete? It has a lot of force. My local garage have done many reluctor ring changes on mercs (owner/boss is doing it as he has the most experience). They slide the half shaft out of the hub and clean up the surface first. Then heat the ring to expand it and fit it in. In fact when I visited them he had one next to his desk that he was about to do. Probably about an hours labour each side. They'll pop in the new sensor I have also and fingers crossed all fits well. he said it wasn't worth changing the CV joint or shaft as they tend to last forever on the rear drive cars. Wish I had an osciliscope to see the square waves in action.

Very much so. I've been having issues with mine. Box was running fine, but then the DSC would kick in very early around corners. shifting became harsher and it started surging too. Then ABS nearside rear fault came up a week or 2 later. Cleaned up the reluctor and replaced the abs sensor. all back to normal after that. Then again last week the offside rear abs fault came up and gearbox shifting became harsher. The reluctor was quite warped and had scraped quite a bit away from the sensor. New sensor would not fit in due to the peaks on the ring. I bought a new reluctor ring and will be fitted next week. Had to buy 2 sizes as nobody is sure which one until we've cleaned up the CV joint.

If there are no air leaks (smoke test?) then it could be the maf. Try cleaning it. I've had super lean conditions before on a different car. new maf sorted that out once air leaks had been ruled out.

Thanks! Yes worth the effort to make sure all teeth are spotless on the rear wheels especially. Didn't realise how dependant the gearbox is on these. The speed of each is fed into the ECU which in turn is read by the TCM and decides when and how to change the gears. If one sensor is sending odd numbers then the box can surge, kick and shift at odd times. Exactly what was happening to mine. Obviously when I saw mine surging, rpm going up and down, I thought the worst! Had many sleepless nights. It was kicking from 1-2 also (lurch) and changing at odd times. Just done a 200 mile round trip to Wales (M6/M54/A5 and lots of windy Welsh roads). Worked perfectly. Not 1 kick or surge. (well apart from a leaking expansion tank! new tank/hose/top hose kit going on this weekend)

Recently I had the ABS/DSC fault appear. I checked my battery and it was a little low. I charged it, cleared the faults and went on my way. 10 days or so later it appeared again. Battery seemed ok but I reset it again. Then came on freqently. C1175 code every time. I had noticed over the last couple or months the transmission was acting funny. A bit indecisive, some surges etc. I thought the worst as I had an oil/filter change before this. Booked in for a reset and software upgrade with Jag end of May anyway. I had also noted the DSC came on very easily while going around corners. Cruise felt funny like it was up and down. This week I changed the left rear abs sensor and cleaned up the ring. The car is transformed so far. No faults, transmission feels much better, no surges, better shifting. No DSC while going swiftly around corners. I'll check all reluctor rings and clean them up as it seems these are so dependant on the outputs of each wheel also. The ring was quite blocked up and rusty. So for 15 pounds and 45 mins work...check the condition of your rings and sensors. Thanks

Just going through the relearning process (non sports mode). Had VMTP Midlands do a check after, top up the fluid and reset the TCM adaptions followed by a test drive. 3 days into driving all feels good. 2 bumps occurred from 1-2 over 50 miles done but just hoping that's the learning process. It has high mileage so its never going to be that good. bump from 5-6th has gone. At least I know it has all new fluid now. Fingers crossed. Will check for leaks over these weeks just in case due to the movement of oil cooler pipes and the rear output seal changed.

The day arrived on Saturday. Arrived at 9am. We hooked up with Launch ATF machine. All brand new. New sump, rectangular adapter seal, 4 housing sleeves, plug sleeve, new bolts. 16 litres of Lifeguard 6. (a couple of extra just in case) Bit fiddly getting the lines hooked up to the oil cooler pipes. Added the Launch flush cleaner. Ran it through the gears for 10 minutes. Drained 4 litres through the Launch. Torx screws were such a pain. 3 had to be forced out due to the heads stripping. He broke 2 torx pieces! But all out eventually. New ones have much bigger torx heads! Dropped the sum to drain the other litre. Loosened some of the screws on the unit, another litre or 2 must have drained from that too. Then we started with the output seal. removed the driveshaft ****** etc. Popped out the rear seal and this is where it went wrong. Wrong size seal!!!! So drove away in the courtesy car. New seal being delivered tomorrow! He'll drop the mechantronic unit today and replace the rectangular seal, plug sleeve, 4 housing sleeves and sump. once the output seal arrived he'll replace that then begin with the full exchange of the oil tomorrow.

Think I found my answer:

Just looking at a photo of the drive shaft flange/coupling - How is the coupling removed to pop a new seal on the box? Is it floating and slides out?

I'm actually looking for a garage that can perform the exchange through the oil pipes, not a flushing. Bluechem has a list but haven't found any locally yet.

Thanks for the advice Jo. Fluid was apparently checked a couple of years ago and it was clean so hope it has stayed that way since then. (unless I was lied to). So many diferring opinions on whether you should exchange all the fluid or just do a partial drain. I guess the best and safest way would be to perform several partial drains to gradually dilute the old oil but very time consuming I imagine. I can't see a garage doing that. On the sump is there a drain plug in addition to the overflow pipe to get the level right? Was thinking once the new sump and fluid is on then you could drain it again and refill with another 6 litres without distrubing the sump.

Now I'm confused! To flush or not to flush. To exchange or flush? To drain all day or just drain and refill. Some drain, some flush (how?), some use an exchanger(is this the same as flush)? Some say flushing is bad as it can stir up all the rubbish and not get flushed out.

I'm looking around for a trustworthy place to service my 6 speed box but at a reasonable price. Doncaster Jags gave the best quote but they are not open at the weekends. I really need someone who is open on Saturday. VMTP in Cannock is a possibility but over £400. Does anyone have experience with J.A.G in Bilston? Thanks

If you're going to change the battery yourself be aware (if you're not already) the support bracket can be a pain to loosen as the bolt goes through the floor and rusts from the underside. I changed mine a few weeks back and took me a good 30 minutes to loosen the bolt. Don't force the bolt out as that can destroy the threads that hold it onto the floor. I did mine 1/8 at a time to loosen the rust and applied a lot of wd40. wirebrushed the underside thread also. AA might just use brute force and damage it.

Thanks. I'll get on it straight away. Drive shaft. Not sure why I wrote prop!!

During an oil change today we noticed a slight seeping from the seal to the prop shaft. Looks fairly new. Was planning to get the fluid changed very soon anyway. Is this the correct seal? http://www.xjkltd.co.uk/jaguar-s-type-automatic-gearbox-output-shaft-extension-oil-seal-xr85804/ Thanks

Decided to go for the 5w30 Fuchs. Meets all the Ford and Jag specs. Good price. Getting it changed on Saturday for 56 pounds at local tyre centre. Saves getting cold and wet.

Fuchs appears to have all the approvals at half the price. What's the catch? Fuchs TITAN Supersyn F Eco-DT 5w-30 Specifications ACEA A5/B5 FORD M2C913-C Approvals FORD M2C913-D FUCHS Recommendations ACEA A1/B1 FORD M2C913-A FORD M2C913-B IVECO 18-1811 S1/S2 JAGUAR M2C913-B RENAULT RN0700 API SL/CF

I was informed that the recommended Castrol Edge A5 is now discontinued. I see a couple of places still selling stock. Is it only the 5w30 discontinued or the 0w30 A5 also? What is the replacement now for my 3.0l petrol? one Jag garage said they use Shell helix Ultra. Should I pick up the old stock A5 and store it? I'd prefer to use the 0w30 as its a group 4 synthetic I believe. Better quality synthetic than the Magnatec. Thanks

Similar experience to owning an old alfa I'd say. A good connection with the car and the road. It has character that you don't get with most cars. Owned my old boxer alfa for 5 years and now a proud owner of my s type.

Good to know thanks. I replaced my battery last week. The only reset I performed was the electronic handbrake calibration. Didn't know about the kick down reset or windows. I'll have a look at this today. Other issue I had was removing the retaining bolt of course. copious amount of wd40 under the car and an 1/8th of a turn at a time. 1/8 turn and 2 turns back repeated about 100 times!! Finally came loose. Then after reinstalling I applied lots of lithium grease underneath.

Hi all, I've finally got my Jag. Nagged my wife for 2 years to get one. All I got was 'No way, its an old balding man's smelly old car!' all the time. I'm 42 so old enough. Insurance fairly cheap. Spent 4 months searching for an s type I wanted - well always some things to compromise on. 2004 Sport 3.0l. High mlieage , 138,500 miles, but had an excellent service history. 14 stamps, oil change always done by the year or mileage. never missed. Last 38,000 miles had all been done on long journeys. got to know the previous owner and did aircraft fitting jobs away from home so travelled up motorways mostly to get to his base. Car had spent most of its live down south. He had the rear bushes done and new shocks recently. bad points: wheels need a refurb, had 1 wheel straightened. Gearbox does need a service but has no issues. couple of touch up jobs to be done, 1 on the front offside wheel arch(previous scrape). Inside of drivers door needs a sand down and treatment/spray. Planning to remove sill covers to inspect and treat/wax . heated seats and heated windscreen all work fine. Inside black leather and aluminum trim. (my favourite). Changed battery last week. Was original! Next job is to service the autobox and oil change. Then spark plug change plannning to do this myself replacing the inlet manifold upper gaskets too. Thanks Chris