oswestryalex

From what I have found, it depends on what speed you are going to do. The recommendation is if you are going over 100 mph, then front tyres on 17 inch wheels should be at 38psi and rear at 35 psi. If it is below that, then 33 psi all round is recommended. One should also take loading into account. I have a 2.2 diesel estate, and if I am carrying heavy stuff I tend to increase the rear tyre pressure by a couple of psi to compensate. Hope this helps. Most important - each pair of tyres at same pressure.

Hi guys, The X type estate diesel 2008 I got is still in limp mode, despite the garage going through procedures pretty logically so far. All filters changed and cut open to check inside - clean as a whistle at that end (fuel, air and oil filters). The solenoid valve was showing up as shot, and looked pretty bad so that was changed. Still limp. So tested the injectors, and 2 were bad the other 2 marginal, so all 4 changed and recoded. Still limp. Checked fuel tank - shavings in there. So, the diesel pump is going to be changed - which makes sense, reading about what their service life is. Only thing - what if we are still in limp mode after all that? What else is there left to change? The error codes are all to do with fuel system, but could it be elsewhere and showing there spuriously? If so, where do we go from here? I would like this car to work as it is really needed for travel next year. Any thoughts would be welcome. Cheers!

Hi everyone, My x type diesel estate 2.2 2008 is in the process of being 'de-limp moded' by my local garage. The fault codes are all on the fuel system. They changed the solenoid on the pump as it was both looking rusty and came up faulty, but that didn't get rid of limp mode. The fuel and air filters have been changed - both clean inside, no shavings in the fuel filter. Tests showed the injectors were shot, so now a new set of injectors is being fitted for me. BUT - does the car need to have the ecu matched to the new injectors, or will they just fit OK? And if so, where can that be done? Being in a remote area on the Welsh borders I've no dealer anywhere near and with the car as it is, not driveable, that makes it awkward to get it to one. Now, if new injectors don't solve the limp mode problem, what else is there to change? Obviously this was a cheap x type, and I desperately need an estate car to get abroad on a long trip but haven't mega bucks to buy something newer and can't afford to just give it to the dealers to 'sort out for me'. I'd need a mortgage....

Hi, I suppose it comes down to affordability for people - buying genuine Jaguar parts from a dealer will cost you a fortune. Yes, these cars are prestige models by and large, and when new are bought by people who have money to spend. But for the second hand market, price will likely be an issue, as it seems to be for this member - and I'd add that my own experience with dealers has been less than great over the years. So, if you buy from eBay, you may get something substandard, perhaps, if you are unlucky. But they also sell good brands. I just got a Bosch air filter for my X type from there. I could have paid double for one from Jaguar. I shall change it at the right time as per usual and doubt that there will be much difference. It is buyer beware - and check for quality. Look at the reviews and feedback for sellers and that tells you a lot.

Hi everyone, Well, at last it stopped raining today so I was able to do more than start the engine of my X Type diesel 2.2 estate (2008) - and try taking it to the nearest garage to put some diesel in. I got this car cheap because it did have a problem - and yes, when you start off with no dash lights and things running smoothly, after 500 yards the coil light comes on, then the engine management light and then it goes into limp mode. Stop, turn off, start - fine again. 500 yards - same problem. OK, so I made it down to the fuel station and stuck £20 in (the fuel there tends to be more expensive, so I shall refill elsewhere) - and tried again; same problem, so drove it in stages back home. I'll get the garage to sort it out for me - I've already asked for an oil and filter change, and fuel filter and engine flush to be done. I'll add air filter to that list and get them to check diagnostics and see what they can find out. I shall post updates on how I get on with it - hope to end up with a decent driveable estate in the end (this one has done 127K so should be good for a while longer). What amazes me - and it was the same with a Volvo V70 estate I had - is the dangerous nature of limp mode. When it comes on, you lose all power steering and the car is barely able to go anywhere - to the point that it is dangerous for driver and other traffic. It was the same with my much lamented V70 - the alternator packed in and in limp mode it couldn't even get up a slight gradient, so I had to abandon it, only to see it totalled by a truck coming along the road.... I do wish limp mode could be turned off completely as I see it as more of a menace than any potential damage you might do to the engine. Any thoughts on that, folks? Has anyone ever tried to 'hack' the vehicle to get rid of the limp mode default, for instance? Cheers, Alex.

Hi, That sounds about right for a low mileage vehicle with FSH. If you check on auto trader, the prices vary hugely and you can pay a lot less (for high mileage vehicle) and a lot more too. If it ticks all the boxes, it would seem like a decent vehicle to go for - but do all checks.

Hi, I just checked on eBay and they have pairs of shock absorbers for X type with 24 month warranty for £68 delivered, which sounds fairly decent. The cost of fitting would be the main worry for me - not being up to doing that kind of job. But check eBay - I typed in shock absorbers x type Jaguar and these came up third in the list. Hope that helps - Alex.

The solution for mine was quite simple once I found it - I had the door open and waggled the door opener from outside and then used some WD40 to loosen it up. Turned out that the mechanism was just a bit stuck from non use! Kept waggling the mechanism from inside and out and used more WD40 and it worked a treat. Both doors were given the same treatment and they've been behaving now for the last 3 years with no hassle.

I used to run Volvo estates - the 850 were good, but V70s once you get older ones seem to have serious problems with the gearboxes - either auto or manual, so I am looking at a X type diesel estate (manual) for my next load carrying and general camping vehicle (no off roading needed). Has anyone experience with the practicality of the X type estate - it's load space, how the tailgate operates, and what kind of weight can be carried safely in it? Any tips from those with experience of these estate cars would be appreciated. As a 'side kick' to my nice S type saloon it will certainly look the part. Reviews seem to show the X type as being a decent secondhand buy. I would appreciate some thoughts from members.

I would love to come down to one of these in Tamworth - I was going to be at one last year but the S type was rear ended in a car park, damaging the bumper, and I have only just found a replacement one that fits. If there is a meet before Christmas let me know.

Looking carefully at the pictures of the old Mark 2 and the old S types from the 1960s, and comparing them (two monitors are useful here!) you can immediately see the striking resemblance in the 'lines' and the way the old and new cats sit on the road, as it were. Driving my S type reminds me of my old XJ6 series 2 that I had back in the 1980s. There is no doubt at all - S types are a classic in the making - just wish I could afford an S type R!

I did send my spare key to one of the people on eBay - they checked it over (it already had a new pad etc) and sent paper with instructions to follow to get it to work. I tried, but it wouldn't work. If I am down at the Jag dealers I may ask them to program it in for me, but am managing on one key OK. I have more important matters to sort - like a bashed back bumper that some 'nice person' left me with when I was parked in a no through road not far from home..... no note so it's down to me to sort.

Ah yes, Peter, isn't it just the way? I was an industrial chemist and had a lot to do with corrosion processes in the construction industry over many years. I can just picture that Triumph Herald disintegrating in front of your eyes... I had a Citroen GSA that was 4 years old that did exactly the same for me in the early 1980s. I suppose that is why some of these older cars are so rare now - unless they were put in a museum, they'd fall apart. Jaguars were, if anything, built of tougher stuff- but unfortunately they did source their bodies from the notorious Presses Steal Fisher plant in Oxford, which churned out rust prone car bodies for all and sundry. At least, that was the case in the 'bad old days'. We of course are trying to maintain and preserve our beloved Big Cats - and even with more modern ones like the S type, we are now talking nigh on 20 year old machines in some cases. I think motor manufacturers will give a 10 year warranty, but that tells us something... I wonder how the aluminium bodied Jaguars are faring now? From what I've heard old Landrovers which also have aluminium bodies have done pretty well. My only regret would be, some of the older Jaguars have iconic designs that I'd wish to see preserved and kept going, which includes the S Type of course. Cheers!

Oh dear! the stuff nightmares are made of, eh? I was reading a Jaguar cars history and it was commenting on how cars from the 1950s and 60s are rust buckets by design... i.e. it wasn't really considered back then - by any car manufacturer. I've seen an old Rolls Royce with some choice corrosion on it too.... Our problem has to be the salting and gritting of the roads to keep them from freezing up, so that cars that have lived their lives on roads that haven't been treated are in great condition. All the same, the very best of luck getting this repaired, and I hope some decent protection for the future as well. Cheers, Alex.

Hi, yes - the Swiss motorway tags are tricky so and so's to unstick - we tend to use a bit of masking tape to hold them in place rather than risk the untender mercies of the glues they use. IT is going to be a warm water and soapiness job. If it seems stubborn, you could wet some tissue and tape it over the tag to get wetness and soapiness into the right place overnight. It may take a few days, but that ought to lift it without doing damage.