Big John

Hi Lyn Common problem caused by dry contacts in the switch. Mine did it much more frequently in warm weather 🙂 Good video here shows how to sort it. regards John

...If the temperature outside is below 4C then it is simply working as it should. It is to warn you of possible icy conditions when driving, if warmer, then the outside temperature sensor is probably faulty, or there is a poor connection to it. My previous XF would intermittently show a temperature 11C below the real temp before the sensor was replaced. Not a big deal except Air Con also used that sensor to control the internal climate 🙂

....So not DPF 🙂 I would still advise looking at the codes as that should help you identify the problem. I assume there is no associated text shown in the info screen when the lights come on.... Regards John

Hi Kevin Your profile does not specify your fuel type but if it is diesel I think you may be looking at DPF full warning lights. If it is diesel it may be worth taking it for a run at 60mph for 30 minutes which should allow the dpf to regenerate but really I would advise getting the DTC codes read (really easy to do with a cheap reader from amazon, or any garage should be able to do it for you for less than £50. Regards John

Hi Kevin Can you post a photo, or at least give us a description, of the symbols that are showing amber and red? Regards John

Hi Matt Hard to see the details on the photos but the battery could well be the cause, although it looks like you now have several of the computer modules sulking and not talking to each other. This can happen if the battery voltage gets low and corrupts the software. My sportbrake had problems in lockdown when I left it for a month, battery went flat, jump started OK, but rear doors and windows were now permenantly locked 😞 I think the car "stores" 3 copies of the entire software in various modules and it is possible (if you know what you are doing and have the correct diagnostics) to repair the corrupted software with a "clean" copy. Apparently there is a place in Milton Keynes called E & E who are really good at clearing the codes and sorting the module issues. Obviously a long way from you, but might be worth a call. Otherwise I suggest a specialist with the Autologic diagnostics as they seem to get the best results. From previous threads on here if you go to Jaguar they just advise changing each "faulty" module with a VERY large invoice at the end. Good luck John

Hi Ava Personally I would leave well alone. On my X Type I fitted one of these in the Cigarette lighter and can now make and receive calls as well as play spotify on the car system for less than £20 🙂 https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07TFDPCT5?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title John

Hi Matt and welcome. First port of call is the battery. If the battery is more than 5 years old I would change it. These cars, like all modern premium cars, eat up the amps at an alarming rate so unless your battery is recharged often by a long run it will suffer a drop in voltage sufficent to upset at least one of the many computer modules. If possible put it on charge and see if that solves the problem. Personally I would use a Ctek charger at least weekly. Make sure you use a charger capable of handling the AGM battery. Also if the battery is low the S/S will not be working. Also worth checking for water in drivers footwell as the washer bottles can leak and flood the electrics causing all sorts of wierd problems so fingers crossed yours is nice and dry... Good luck, John

Hi Opinion varies but this is from the Jaguar Workshop Manual pg 2201; http://www.jagrepair.com/images/AutoRepairPhotos/CarPDFFiles/2007XK/X150Service.pdf The 6HP26 transmission has the following features: • Designed to be maintenance free • Transmission fluid is 'fill for life' • The torque converter features a controlled slip feature with electronically regulated control of lock-up, creating a smooth transition to the fully locked condition • Shift programs controlled by the TCM • Connected to the Engine Control Module (ECM) via the high speed Controller Area Network (CAN) bus for communications • Default mode if major faults occur • Diagnostics available from the TCM via the CAN .... My choice has always been to leave "sealed for life" systems alone. Your choice 🙂

Have you tried to replicate noise without leaving car parked? My X type does make a clunk of the pads freeing from the disk as I reverse off the drive. it is only being driven once a week at the moment. Maybe try the manouvere without giving the front brakes time to "stick". Good luck John

Hi Tim I love mine (27k and serviced every year!) Your issue sounds like the pistons are sticking in the cylinders so not properly returning when pressure is released. It could well be if there was air and condensation in the system causing corrosion you may end up needing new calipers all around as well as a new master cylinder assembly to solve all of the issues. If it is half as good as mine though it will be worth it in the end 🙂 Good luck John

https://www.autoreservejaguar.com/accessories/wiper-washer-system/xf-xj-2008-2022-windscreen-washer-pump.html https://www.berkshirejagcomponents.com/products/xf-screen-washer-pump-c2z30987 Good Luck John

Hi Tim Presume you have already had a look at the sills as these are hidden behind the plastic covers and are VERY prone to rust. Mine had some rust but has had full repair plates welded to both sides and the whole underbody is now protected with Lanoguard. Good Luck with yours John

Hi Tim If the piston seal on the master cylinder or slave cylinder is perished it is possible that the fluid simply by passes the piston, so no compression. However you would expect that to be showing as a leak.... John

Hi Tim The brakes are a simple hydraulic circuit. Pressure applied at the pedal is transmited to the rear of the brake pads pushing them onto the disc. So there are a limited number of reasons for your symptoms. Firstly the brake pedal is not compressing the fluid inside the master cylinder. If that part is working OK and there are no leaks in the system the hydraulic pressure must be passed to the slave cylinder. Unless that is seized the pressure will force the pads against the disc. If all parts are free and connected with no leaks, applying pressure at one end will make the other end move.... unless there is air in the system somewhere. Air is compressible, brake fluid is not, so if you have any air in the system it will absorb the applied pressure rather than transmitting it. No leaks suggests an air-lock somewhere. Regards John