Big John

Hi Steve. FYI The P1000 PCM code can be thrown by a battery disconnection, or possibly low voltage and needs a Drive cycle to be completed to allow the Power Control Module to reset. Drive Cycle Instructions are normally to drive until everything is warmed up and use all the gears with a fairly aggressive right foot. Then leave the car overnight and hopefully it will have reset itself. The P1647 upstream O2 sensor fault refers to a sensor in the exhaust monitoring the Catalytic convertor, so probably worth getting a proper diagnostic on that whilst you are at the garage to avoid damaging the cat. Good luck John BTW the sills you can see from the roadside are plastic covers. The scarry bits are underneath 🙂

Hi Steve and welcome. First suspect would be a flat battery. Do you have any idea how old it is? A low battery charge is quite capable of throwing all sorts of fault codes and as the codes have not re-appeared that sounds the most likely cause. If you checked the battery just after you got home it may well have indicated a reasonable state of charge. I would give it a full charge and see how it goes. Only really serious problems are usually to do with rusting sills but there are replacements availble to weld in (Mine has been done and is covered in lanogaurd to keep it rust free.) Good luck John

Hi Nick Without recoding: https://www.autoreservejaguar.com/xj-x350-2003-2010-coilover-shock-spring-kit.html or cheaper alternative: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/354203796871?_skw=xj+spring+conversion&epid=7047144579&itmmeta=01JY7827ZCFRRN10CAVGKSP7N6&hash=item5278310587:g:lcoAAOSwvsplTgNR&itmprp=enc%3AAQAKAAAA0FkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1eRTia%2B9aXD0yOY1pn5M6%2BFIttb1D%2B9WdyOqBcaijPmuGnIU7KZeYD44jmO%2BkhsJZAisvmn4GPpG%2FBs16ViWgdd7ivgKFeV3YLU1SAuEpqtdPTitkPuqtBs9e0Fr7mjR8bB8DcbWvXRVgvp5ZKpIBAE5WLo3LsFxjw2VRZMrWGOEcHlPlB5HKJjtmqIS4XYFeA4GdYlbbehvKqE7pJn5PmZply6rb6snez8NrhjgiNsSAlrAcdgFe80kI51wqedLVY%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR_r_iOjxZQ or this kit claims to include a module to sort the electrics as well... https://aeropik.eu/item/1929#:~:text=Arnott's Coil Spring Conversion Kit for the,kit also includes Arnott's patented (US Pat. Good luck John

Hi Gordon This might help: https://www.lockingwheelnutkeys.co.uk/ Good luck John

....Just make sure it is an AGM or it will almost certainly fail before you expect....

One here: https://www.autoreservejaguar.com/jaguar-parts.html/x-type-diesel-2005-2010-2-2d-automatic-drive-shaft-front-right.html ...or maybe here... https://www.rexbo.co.uk/car-parts/drive-shaft/jaguar-x-type-estate/31069-2-2-d Good luck John

Hi Tim This might help: https://autotechnician.co.uk/brake-servo-fault-finding-guide/ Good luck John

Hi Tim Found this on the jaguarforum.com site: "There is a common fault with the X Type that follows a brake bleed using the manual pedal pumping method. When the brake pedal goes to the floor during a pedal pump bleed, damage to the brake booster (servo) normally results. I personally suffered this following a full service at a garage that I had requested a complete brake fluid change be included. I specifically told them about the manual bleed problem and asked if they had a pressure bleeder. Although they did, the boss forgot to tell the mechanic and he manually bled them and detroyed the servo. One of the members here posted that adjustment to the push-rod between servo and master cylinder is possible and successfully cured his fault by winding in the push-rod to give some slack. Other members report putting a block of wood under the pedal to restrict pedal travel when pedal pump bleeding method is used. "Never allow the pedal to go all the way down." Symptoms include solidly locked on brakes and brakes that slowly begin to bind as you drive before locking up completely (like mine)." Not sure how that would damage the servo though....... Have you tried turning each road wheel when the brakes are locked on to see if it is all 4 or just one, or one circuit which is at fault? Good luck John

Hi Fred Only 2 possibilities. It is either leaking: 1) externally, such as venting through the radiator cap as steam or through a leaking hose or radiator or heater core, all of which should be visible. 2) Internally, Either directly into the cylinder to be expelled through the exhaust, or into the lubrication system which should show as "mayonaise" in the oil. I would check the oil for signs of coolant (likewise coolant for signs of oil) and then recheck for leaks when standing still as that is a LOT to be losing without an external leak. Good luck John

Not sure but this might help:

Hi Jon Sounds right to me. If the starter is drawing current and fails to start in the normal time, repeated attempts will drop the battery voltage to a point where the computers start hallucinating 🙂 Hope you get it sorted. Johnn

Hi Jon http://www.jagrepair.com/images/AutoRepairPhotos/CarPDFFiles/SType/S-Type 2002.5-2008-FSM-Workshop.pdf You will find lots of useful stuff on the jagrepair.com site. Good Luck

Hi Jon If turning the key results in nothing, a click or a start that sounds like the problem is the starter. I assume that you are not getting the engine to even turn over when it "fails to start". If the starter is actually turning the engine over at normal speed (every time you attempt to start) then you can rule it out as the problem. If not that is where I'd start. I would try to check the voltage reaching the starter when you turn the key either with a voltmeter or a test bulb. Regards John

Hi Jas Personally i would walk away. Probably looking somewhere close to at least 1/3 of the cost of the of the car as a minimum and there are plenty of decent ones around as alternative purchases. Good luck John

Hi Jana It should simply slide back on. Open the fuel doorand then the cover should slide on. This is from an XF but I think the mechanism is the same. Good luck John