Big John

Personally I would contact my Bank STAT and explain, as identify fraud scam may well be in hand....... Good luck

....at that price I would be running away rather than walking.....

Simple enough check on the explosive side is that if they have deployed the rear of the bonnet should be obviously raised. I agree the sensors seem to be the ususal cause of problems with this system. Not sure but I think you should be able to read the oil level and pressure with via the OBD port. Might be worth a discussion to see if the seller is willing to take it to a specialist with you.... Depending on the price and your circumstances might be worth a punt 🙂

Hi That looks like the passive mis-fuelling has NOT been triggered as that is bright yellow plastic. The passive device is to prevent fuel flow when a petrol hose HAS been inserted into the filler. I think you are looking at the actiive mis-fuelling device which is designed to prevent a petrol nozzle actually being inserted in the filler. The handbook suggests that you may be simply holding the pump incorrectly.... https://www.ownerinfo.jaguar.com/document/2H/2017/1390844/proc/G1862756/G1901405 Good luck John

Hi Brian That code could be one of a number of issues with the Catalytic Converter. Personally I would get it to an independent Jaguar specialist to sort. This video might help a bit: Good luck John

Hi Clive. This the one? :https://www.britishparts.co.uk/classic-jaguar/jaguar-xjs/steering-suspension/power-steering-hose-cac3654 Regards John

Hi Probably the gear linkage bolts. This video (actually about transmission oil change) describes how to tighten them. I think as it is an American video that "Drivers side" may actually be our passenger side. Good luck John

Hi Paul My guess is that the software on one, or more modules, has been corrupted by the low voltage. It happened to my XF during the Covid lockdown and stopped the rear doors locking / unlocking and the rear windows opening and closing. Sorted under warranty for me by dealer (non-jaguar). I think if the garage use the Autologic system they should be able to sort it for you. Apparently Jag dealers like to replace the module which costs rather a lot.... For the future I would recomend using a battery maintainer (I use Ctek) if you are not using the car for that long, and probably as a regular habit at least every couple of weeks. As an aside I would replace the battery at least every 5 years as they are a consumable and do deteriorate with age/use and particualry if allowed to go flat... Good luck John

.. thats a bugger, there was one left when I posted 😞

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/266692167215 Regards John

Hi Patrick. If your DPF warning is amber just take it for a run and it should clear itself after 30 mins or so. If it is red I would advise taking it to a garage where they can properly diagnose and test the problem. Regards John

Hi Patrick I can.t see the image but as a rule going for a drive of at least 30 mins at a constant speed around 50-70 should force a DPF regeneration. (basically your "soot filter" is blocked and the car needs to burn it clean). However, if you have just bought it from a garage you should take it straight back an get them to sort it. Just refer to section 14 of the Sale of Goods Act 1979 which requires products sold to be of "satisfactory quality". Regards John

Hi Jon I feel your pain. TX valve on my XF is stuck. £30 valve that needs two screws undoing to replace. Except to get at it you need to remove the entire dashboard and Heating and Ventilation / Air conditioning system 😞 Good luck John

Hi John. Only thing to add to Jim's excellent advice would be to ensure you get the correct "type". I think yours uses an Absorbent Glass Mat (AGM) rather than a traditional wet cell battery and replacing with the wrong type will almost certainly cause problems. When I got my XF it had a standard wet cell fitted, presumably as they are about half the price of the AGM but often fail within 12 months so if the previous owner was already thinking of selling when it was replaced...... Regards John

Hi Greg, and welcome. Could be a number of things from spark plugs through to fuel pump, and many more.... The good news is that, as it has thrown a CEL, it will have recorded a diagnostic trouble code or codes (DTC). Any garage should be able to read these for you, or it is a really simple thing to do yourself with a code reader. These are readily available on Amazon or Ebay for about £20 ($25). Please let us know how you get on. Regards John

Hi Michael Is this the one? https://www.keymoon.uk/jaguar-s-type-three-button-remote-with-flip-key-fo21.html You may then need to get it programmed to the car but a good auto locksmith should be able to do that. Regards John

That sounds very odd 😞 Only thing that comes to my mind is a faulty ignition key switch or wiring, or possibly power to the fuel pump as, once started, a diesel just keeps running until its fuel supply is cut off or it is starved of air. For it to switch itself of "cleanly" without any misfiring, as you are describing, suggests that either, there is a fault in the key circuit (it thinks you have turned the ignition off). or the fuel pump is losing power and cutting the fuel off. Maybe you could try rummaging around the wires inside the steering column (when parked!) and see if you can replicate the problem? Regards John

Hi Julian. I think you would find that having the fog lights as DLRs is not legal as they are too low. Fog lights are only supposed to be used in fog (when visiblity is below 100m). Also DRL are only usally fitted to the front as they are to improve your visibility to others. Regards John

The EGR stuck can certainly produce a rough idle, stalling etc. BUT It should also throw the Engine Management Light and record a DTC such as P0401 or P0402. You could try using this. Never tried it myself but might be worth a try: https://www.eurocarparts.com/p/wynns-diesel-egr-valve-aerosol-200ml-555770100 Regards John

Hi Rich. How full is the fuel tank? Also can you confirm if the gear selector fails and the stop/start fails as well when it stalls? If so there must be something else other than fuel causing that.... Regards John

Hi Richard. These seem to be a possible... https://www.sandcmotors.co.uk/ Good luck John

Hi Phil "Hi I recently bought a Ftype 3.0 v6 2020 but stop start won’t work I just have the logo pop up with a line through it." When you get that on the dashboard it means that Stop/Start is disabled. At each start-up the system should be re-activated unless you press the Eco button to disable it again, at which point the sign on the dash comes up to say it is disabled. As Jim said it is possible that, assuming you have not used a code reader to "tell the car" about the new battery that it has not yet realised 🙂 I know with the XF that every few months the car performs a battery test to confirm its status. Until the car does this it might simply be that it is not sure that the battery is able to complete a "start" so does not initiate a "stop". For me the Stop/Start light being on is important. If this comes on without you pressing the button there may well be a fault. You say you recently bought the car? If not a private sale I would be heading back to the dealer for them to sort it.... Regards John

Hi Rich "when at lights or roundabout the car seems lumpy upon accelerating this is when i believe the stall is going to happen, I’m having to depress accelerator 3-4 times approximately 4 secs elapse before revs increase enough to pull away" That sounds much more fuel related. Starting point for me would be to change the fuel filter (quick and cheap) as these seem to be regularly "missed" when service is completed by major chains so will eventually clog up and impede fuel flow. Do keep us updated. Regards John

Hi Rich. Personally I only ever use Shell V Power Diesel and have not had any issues for the past 6 years of ownership.... However I am not convinced your issue is fuel related as that should not affect either the start button or selector functions. When the car stalls do you have any warning lights? Have you tried reading the DTC codes? Does the Start/Stop system worked? Have you tried diasbling Stop/Start to see if the problem is the Start/Stop only doing its "Stop" then failing to restart? John

Hi Ian Can you give a little more detail? Does the engine just stop dead? Any warning lights? Any smoke? Rough running? Noises? Not sure I agree with your mechanic that yours counts as "an older car" in terms of reading the DTC codes. My cheap code reader is more than happy reading any DTCs on my 2.1 petrol from 2003.... Regards John