Big John

Hi Mark Just a thought but have you reset the journey it is calculating the figures on? Could be previous owner drove around town and had a very heavy right foot so you average is still including their driving. If I reset mine at a steady 60 on the motorway it can go as high as 60+ mpg. I have mine set so it records the average over the "entire" journey which for me is currently well over 2000 miles since I last did a reset. Regards John

Hi Tracey Only if they were standard or the original owner added the "mirror pack" when ordering 😞 Mine is a 2013 Sportbrake S and they are not fitted so the only options on my screen are, like yours, about windows global opening and global closing. Still think it was not really acceptable to have this as an option on a Jag but have to live with it as I still love the car. 🙂 Regards John

Hi Mark and welcome Mine is a 2013 XF Sportbrake S with the 200bhp engine. I average around 44-45mpg with my driving which is fairly gentle driving locally for 30% of time and Motorway at 70(ish) the remainder so yours does seem a little "thirsty" if you are doing similar. However "enthusiastic" driving could well account for that sort of difference. Assume you have checked things like tyre pressures and tracking. Regards John

Don't worry if it shows only 12.2v when the engine is running. It does that as part of the self-calibration routine. When mine is doing a calibration it drops to 12.2v under load but goes back up to 13+ on the over-run. When not calibrating mine is steady at around 14.8-14.9v. When calibrating it fully charges the battery then discharges it to 70% but never below12.2v to work out the battery capacity and state of health. It should then fully recharge. Hope your battery survived its swimming lesson 🙂 John

Hi Jason If you haven't already got one I would recommend getting a Ctek maintainer https://www.ctek.com/uk/products/car/ct5-start-stop-uk Usual reason for Stop / Start not working is battery charge state. A cigarette lighter voltage display (£5-6 off ebay) will give an idea of state. Remember as soon as you unlock the car all of the modules fire up and start using huge ammounts of current so my full battery at 12.8v will instatntly only show 12.6 on the display. If yours shows less than 12.2v as soon as it lights up battery charge is almost certainly too low for S/S to work. Regards John

Hi Wal First port of call with the XF when you have any warning lights is to check the battery state of charge. These are VERY prone to all sorts of wierd problems if the battery is even a little bit dodgy. From experience with the Saab 95 the usual cause of a christmas tree on the dash is an ABS sensor fault. I would try charging the battery if possible and then get the fault codes read. Good luck John

Known problem. Mine had it sorted by previous owner but cost over £1000 as electics were damaged. Now bone dry 🙂 Mine now has a little drain hole in the floor as a safety last line of defence (belt and braces) plus packed with water absorbing packs and a water detector (little battery device from ebay designed to detect water leaks behind washing machine etc). Call me Mr Obsessed. Entry point seems to be either rear light cluster seals or tailgate strut mountings. Hope you caught it before the electrics were permenantly damaged. Regards John

I think if you have changed the door control modules they will need programming to the car. Not sure if that can be done by any garage or if it needs a Jag dealer or specialist. Hopefully there will be someone more knowledgeable along to help 🙂 Regards John

At 4 years, could need a new battery and it must be an AGM not an ordinary one so probably looking at thick end of £300 at a Jag main dealer (around £180 fitted at Halfords and the like). If you are not doing many long journeys it could simply be in need of a charge. If you park on your drive I would get a Ctek maintainer (£70ish) to keep the battery topped off. I also use the Ctek Battery Sense which is a bluetooth device (£50ish) which connects to your mobile phone and monitors battery state so that you can easily see when you need to "top-up" the charge. Modern Jags (and all premium cars) are essentially a bunch of computers on wheels and take a surprising amount of energy even when seemingly dormant. If you get one of those cigarette lighter voltage displays and sit in the car with the engine off you will see a frighteming rate of discharge!. The last thing you want to do is let the voltage drop enouugh to start corrupting the computers software which can be fiddly to repair. It is why they have the second, smaller battery. When the Stop/Start stops the engine this takes over as steady power supply for the "sensitive" components leaving the main battery to sort out restarting and basic "in-sensitive" functions such as the air-con and lighting. Regards John

Hi No experience of the XK but presume there is an emergency key hidden in the fob as with the XF. You should be able to get in through the door (or boot) which has a manual lock. Regards John

Hi Ian It says in the handbook that it will reset after next start. I was just suggesting turning them off one at a time before locking / unlocking to see if it cured the "mislock" warning to identify which sensor may be at fault. Hope you get it sorted 🙂 Regards John

.....or If I had looked in my handbook first: "Page 15 Sensor Fault. If the security systems detect a fault with one of the security sensors, 2 error tones will sound from the alarm after the vehicle is unlocked and disarmed." .....so you could try disabling sensors from the security settings on the touch screenbefore arming and see if that makes a difference...... John

"The X250 central locking switches are located above the center console. The buttons lock and unlock all doors and the trunk. The switches are non-latching and allow all the vehicle entry points to be centrally locked or unlocked from inside the vehicle. Pressing and holding the buttons will operate the global open/close function. The windows and sunroof will stop opening if the button is released. When the central lock or unlock switch is pressed, a ground is connected to the CJB sending a signal to the lock or unlock motors in the door and trunk latches. The doors and trunk will only respond to the central lock/ unlock command when they are fully closed. If a door is ajar the central locking feature is inhibited. The operator will be notified of a ‘mislock’ by two audible chirps and a light flash. " The above is from the original American Technicians Training Manual from 2008. It seems to me to say that the "double beep" indicates the CJB has not recieved confirmation of lock position from one of the door modules when you are unlocking so announces a "mislock" even though the car was locked, so maybe the catch is slightly sticking but only being noted as incorrect on unlock. Have you tried repeatedly locking/ double-locking and unlocking to see if it maybe "shakes" something into place, or even slaming the doors before applying the central locking? Regards John

Hi Can I check that the double beep is on Locking?: "Over the last 2 days, when I unlock the car either with the fob of door handle I get 2 beeps. when it locks and the mirrors fold in" Just a thought but have you tried to open the fuel filler when car is locked as this is part of the locking process so could be the flap lock? Regards John

Hi Ride on my 19" wheels XF Sportbrake 2.2 200hp more than acceptable and look good too. Mine is an S but believe it is just the bodykit is different with a more aggressive front end and standard suspension. Tyre cost should be a factor. Pirelli P Zero at Kwikfit: 20" £235 19" £163 18" £120 John

I can also recommend the CTek Battery Sense Monitor. Fixes to the battery and connects to your phone (CTek App) by bluetooth to give a state of charge as %. Actual voltage and Temperature on your phone. Mine sits on Drive and Bluetooth does reach front rooms of house about 10yds away. Very comforting when you are only using the car every now and then. Quite pricey at £50 but well worth it for the peace of mind John

Very Handsome. Mine is black as well so needs regular washes to keep it looking nice 🙂

Hi Chris Welcome. Usual cause of any drop in cooling performance is that it needs re-gassing. Any idea when it was last done? About every 2 years seems average and it is worth doing as the "gas" helps lubricate the system and seals and prevent bigger repair bills in the long run. Obviously it also makes driving much more pleasant 🙂 Regards John

Hi In the UK, assuming you bought from a business, you would probably be covered by the Sale of Goods Act because the "goods" were misrepresented as being "Premium Luxury", which it is not, rather than "Luxury" which JLR says it is. However I would be looking at going back to the seller and complainining about each feature which they actually claimed the car to have which is missing. Mine is an "S" but doesn't have the mirror pack which I think is not really acceptable for a Jag but the seller did not make any false claims about fitted equipment so I live with it, especially as I LOVE the car 🙂

Hi I do currently have a warranty which seems to work and was very cheap when I bought the car with it. (@£500 for life of car and a 3 year renewable service contract for another £500). It has already paid out for a rear door re-coding after a flat battery left both rear doors and windows totally dead. However..... That seems like a hefty premium, £700 a year is quite a lot of repairs and for me it would depend on the small print. Your profile says car is 9 years old. Even mine, which is a very good policy, reduces cover at 10 years or 100k miles. I would do extensive research in reviews of their payment history for claims (as you are here) and go through the policy fine print with a magnifying glass. I also had a warranty from Skoda for my wifes 2015 Rapid. That was £200 a year but virtually everything you might potentially claim for was excluded. It was not renewed wheras I will be extending my Warranty4Life on the Jag. Hopefully you will get some more views to help make up your mind. 🙂

Hi On the basis of Google translate that is: GOOD AFTERNOON ,, I HAVE A FAILURE IN THE XF 2013 IN THE LIGHTS ALWAYS THAT I WALK WITH THE AUTOMATIC CONTROL THE LIGHT IS ALWAYS A FLASH FLIGHT ON AND DELETE ANY KNOW HOW TO SOLVE '???? Have you checked the Lights are not on exit delay setting on the light switch? John

Hi If you can't find the real thing, lateral thought suggestions would be to try Humbrol Chrome enamel: https://www.fredaldous.co.uk/products/humbrol-enamel-14ml?variant=31477161918566&sfdr_ptcid=32296_100_590473681&sfdr_hash=b8e2f9bb593da3b1824476962cb83ea5&gclid=Cj0KCQjw6uT4BRD5ARIsADwJQ195xU2Lpx3JXmEWzVozBIclJGQ5zZIGPoMWEmehkTA7P_MNflVXQx0aAkbpEALw_wcB But maybe this would work better, They do whole cars in it so should cover a button 🙂 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Stretchable-Car-Wrap-Glossy-Mirror-Chrome-Vinyl-Foil-Film-Sticker-Sheet-Decal/223950130707?var=522702069673&hash=item342477ce13:g:mukAAOSwf1RecfAY John

Hi Presume it is the 2016 model year but not sure the socket stays live with ignition off. Personally I use the USB socket in the arm rest. If you do use the dashcam with the ignition off I would ensure you are hooked up to a CTEK maintainer or you are very likely to end up with a flat battery at best. John

Hi If you go to https://www.tyre-shopper.co.uk/ and put in your registration to search for tyres it will tell you what the car model is: Mine comes up as XF D SPORT SPORTBRAKE Kind regards John

Hi Nicholas CTEK are actually Swedish so I am sure they will be available wherever you live. If not there are other options just make sure that it has overcharge protection. Simple trickle chargers just carry on charging and will damage the battery if left connected too long. My car has a warranty from the supplying garage which is actually a Volvo/Fiat dealer but with Jag dealers in the group.They rang the Jag dealer for advice and were talked through the process. As they are not a Jag dealer themselves I assume they have a generic "Diagnostic" computer rather than a specialised Jag one. They told me the Jag garage said it is a common problem and indicated it was a simple fix. They kept the car overnight to fully recharge the battery. I would take from this that a good independant with the correct kit should be able to do the job. It may be mechanical but I certainly think it sounds like a software (or possibly hardware) issue. In my case, I am in Shielding in the UK with the pandemic so left the car alone for over a month. Big mistake. Voltage was down to 5v when RAC finally managed to get in (Battery is 18 months old and AGM). After doing lots of research it is not just a JLR problem but effects lots of modern high-end cars.The problem is that with all of the computers they use copious amounts of electricity and that is even when everything is off. If you think about it it is never "off" as it is always waiting to recieve an unlock command or detect an alarm trigger. I have seen a video of a car with the engine off drawing over 10A. If you repeatedly do several short journeys, maybe sit in the car listening to a track finishing on the radio, it is not hard to see how the voltage could drop when you start the car. The clue is that JLR use an auxilliary battery to look after the computers when the S/S is active. That protects the many modules from voltage drop problems. It is a little like a desktop PC. Even without dodgy voltage they sometimes freeze and need a reboot. For the future I would at least monitor the Stop/Start and if it stops working as expected, take it for a long motorway run with minimal loads (lights off, Aircon off, sound system off etc). Ideally get a CTEK maintainer and Battery sense like me 🙂 Hope that helps Regards John