Big John

Pretty sure the main battery showing its age can do all sorts including throwing the EML. How old is the main battery?

Not as far as I know. Have you read the codes? John

Hi Jessica My advice would be do not drive it until you have sorted the leak as you risk serious damage. The V8 is known to have issues with both its water pump and pipe work. Both are relatively cheap and easy to fix. The plastic fittings (such as elbows) used in the cooling system tend to crack with age so if one has gone you might want to consider replacing all of them at the same time for peace of mind. The S Type is a lovely car but it is 20 years old so if using as a daily driver you need to get ahead of the game and make sure you address issues as soon as they arise or ideally do the preventative maintenance to stop them arising in the first place. I hope you get it sorted and enjoy driving it as much as I enjoy my 21 yr old X Type. Regards John

Hi Plenty on ebay: Part no LR053666 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/134611874934 Regards John

Hi John Assuming you manage to get to your next destination ok 🤞, I would be tempted to call out your breakdown cover people at that point as they should be able to at least give you a diagnosis and hopefully either sort it at the roadside or take it to someone who can before you need to move on to your next destination. Obviously when calling them, the light will have just come on for the first time 🙂 Good luck John

Hi John As Glyn said, you need to get the codes. Any garage will be able to get at least the basic codes (there are Jag specific ones that need a dedicated diagnostic computer) and will be able to give at least a general diagnosis. They will also be able to reset the EML. You should be able to buy a Code reader (they are about £30 on amazon or ebay but probably more if bought in a european equivalent of Halfords. Assuming that your issue is a simple one (they often are) simply being able to reset the code if it keeps coming on with your reader may allow you to finish the holiday and get home. As long as the car does not go into limp mode it should be fine to keep driving. Limp mode is designed to enable you to get to a garage.... I Think the german equivalent of Halfords is ATU. https://www.atu.de/ Good luck John

Hi Andy My guess is one of two possiblbilites. 1) Seat occupancy sensor not reconnected - Simply reconnect to sort it, or 2) Battery not disconnected before starting the job and a transient voltage event scrambled the SRS module when disconnected /reconnected.. In this case it is probably going to need a re-code for the module, or worst case a new module. First thing you need to do is to read the DTC codes (or get them read). Failing that, this (from another forum) may help... "the airbag light should come on for six seconds, then go out and stay out. If there's a fault, the light should come on for six seconds, then go out for two seconds, then flash the appropriate number of flashes for the fault, go off again for two seconds, then repeat the whole sequence five times. Finally the light stays on until the ignition is turned off. Eg; Flash code 16 would be shown as lamp ON for one occurence of 0.5 seconds, then lamp OFF for one second, followed by six occurences of lamp flashing ON/OFF for 0.5 seconds each (1 - 6). here is the list of codes i.e. the number of flashes that are seen, may help point you in the right direction 13 - Crash data memory full 16 - Pass seat weight sensor CAN fault 17 - Pass spatial sensor CAN fault 18 - Pass airbag deactivate lamp circuit fault 19 - Airbag circuit status fault - driver 21 - Airbag circuit status fault - pass 22 - Side Airbag circuit fault - driver 23 - Side Airbag circuit fault - pass 33 - Seat Belt Pretension fault - driver 34 - Seat Belt Pretension fault - pass 42 - Impact sensor circuit fault - front 43 - Impact sensor circuit fault - driver side 44 - Impact sensor circuit fault - pass side 51 - Seat belt switch circuit fault - driver 52 - Seat belt switch circuit fault - pass 53 - Airbag audible warning circuit fault 54 - RCM configuration failure" Please let us know how you get on. Regards John

Hi Keith. Propshaft bearing can produce that sort of symptom. You can try greasing rather than going straight for a replacement. These threads may be helpful: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x-type-x400-14/info-needed-greasing-prop-drive-shaft-68483/ https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x-type-x400-14/how-grease-replace-driveshaft-bearing-187890/ Regards John

...and my pair.... I've had the Sportbrake for 6 years and the X-Type for 12 months. It still has under 27k on the clock, serviced every 12 months and an interior like new. It even had the previous owners leather driving gloves in the glove box along with a bag of Werthers 🙂 It now has new sills and is fully Lanoguarded underneath. Failed 2 MOTs in its life, once for headlight aim and once for sills in 2017. Currently working on the original wheels but got some refurbed X-Triple 5 on at the moment with Goodyear Vector 3 all seasons.

This any good: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/235536712669?itmmeta=01J34PT5KVDJ0P5JN5XY1CG93Z&hash=item36d71503dd:g:9BgAAOSwJc9mKjK4 Regards John

Personally I would not dream of any such action, and even if feeling reckless enough to do so, I wouldn't until I had a proper diagnosis (rather than someone thinking "it is probably the turbo actuator") on the basis I could make things a lot lot worse..... Regards John

Hi Graeme and welcome. First thing to do is get the DTC fault codes read. It is an easy DIY job once you have a cheap code reader from Amazon or eBay. Alternatively a garage should do a diagnostic for you at a reasonable price. Once you have the code you will have a much better idea as to what the problem is and how to fix it. Good luck John

Available from Berkshire Jag: MJB1341AC: https://www.berkshirejagcomponents.com/xk8-xkr-reconditioned-front-lower-wishbone-arm-left-hand-jlm21305-c2x18743629 and MJF1346AA: https://www.berkshirejagcomponents.com/xk8-xkr-lower-front-wishbone-arm-right-left-handed-mjf1346aa-c2x25083925 Regards john

Hi John I would be looking for an independent Jag specialist rather than a main dealer. There are several in Yorkshire but Yorkshire is pretty big , however there is likely to be at least one near you. Good luck John

Hi Brian If it was me and it is just the exhaust attachments that have corroded I would try a DIY fix with "bits" and epoxy to attach a replacement fixing. The images here might help: http://www.jagrepair.com/images/Electrical/XFWorkshopManual/Exhaust System.pdf If that doesn't work, is it not possible to spot weld a new attachment bracket in place? http://www.jagrepair.com is always useful 🙂 Good luck John

Hi Keith. Not a simple answer but in short I would say yes, that is too low. A lot depends on when you measured it. The jag, like most modern cars is a shed load of networked computers on wheels. These computers are very power hungry and like a toddler take their time going to sleep, so will still be drawing power for up to 30 mins after you turn the car off. I have a bluetooth voltmeter on mine and when I turn mine off after a run I would expect voltage to drop to 12.8v. If I leave the car for a week and it gets below 12.5v I would be connecting my Ctek charger. 12.48v within minutes of shutdown suggests to me the battery is weak or it is not being charged properly by the alternator.... BUT 12.48v should not cause a problem in itself. The question would be what does it drop to when you next try a start? John

Sorry forgot the link.... http://www.jagrepair.com/images/Electrical/XFWorkshopManual/Body and Paint.pdf John

Hi Andy The window regulator stop function works on monitoring the current drawn when closing the window. When current drawn increases (end of travel or resistance to closing -such as a trapped finger) it stops. In your case it sounds like either there is resistance at the top of travel - maybe loose trim at the top of the frame or (more likely) the front of the window has dropped out of alignment. I assume from your post it is not possible to raise the rear of the window by the same 3mm as you can the front? If so, my guess is the front support mounts have dropped. Have you tried re-setting whilst "helping" the front to close that extra 3mm? The previous model details are here but I would imagine the windows are not dissimilar. John

Hi Carl First simple things I would check is the condition / volume of the Engine oil and coolant. Are there any signs of coolant in the oil or oil in the coolant?. A lack of smoke is not always diagnostic of a failing cylinder head gasket. The smoke comes if oil / coolant is reaching the cylinder and being expelled through the exhaust. If cylinder pressure is leaking into the oil ways or coolant you should see fumes from the crankcase when you remove the filler cap or have coolant being forced out of the radiator cap. As Jim said, it could be a blocked / leaking coolant system but I once had the AA out to a Saab 95 which was overheating on the motorway. They said faulty temp gauge as everything seemed OK. I stopped 20 miles later when temp gauge fell but by then cylinder head was already warped 😞 Good Luck John

https://www.wolvesparts.com/product?pid=JAGUAR+XF+X250+REAR+BUMPER+REINFORCEMENT+CRASH+BAR&sku=1170

I Agree, these are great cars and well worth the effort they require from those of us who love them 🙂 Slightly worried about the " used to start a wagon before" and "after using the booster everything is now dead". I hope the booster was set to 12v not 24v......😫 Good luck

Hi Ross Are you certain that the booster pack you used was fully charged, and powerful enough to start the engine? Re-reading your original post in isolation I would say dodgy battery. A decent starter pack will only require engaging "Boost" if it is unable to detect a voltage in the vehicle battery. To then only do a couple of turns with a fully charged starter pack suggest either the starter pack is not powerful enough (or is itself flat) OR their is a massive short when the starter is engaged. Just because a battery reads over 12v at rest does not mean it is OK. My wifes Skoda failed to start last week. Started fine with my Noco GB50 attached but initial quick test by garage said battery was OK and at 80%. Only when tested again 2 days later did it show as knackered. New battery and now running fine. Is it possible to try a jump start from another car with heavy duty jump cables?

Hi Ross Can we just go back and explore in more detail exactly what happens when you try and start the car? Are the key batteries OK? Does the car show any signs of "waking up" when unlocked? Have you tried starting with the key held over the sensor? Any lights on the dash? Have you tried jump starting from another car / starter pack? etc Regards John

Hi Keith First thing to check would be the battery. Random codes and problems such as you are suffering are often down to a failing battery. How old is the battery? Have you had it tested / have you tried charging it? Was / Is your stop / start working normally before these symptoms? Has the car been stood for a while / used for short journeys only? Regards John

Hi Ross I would still have a look around the mega fuses as a poor connection there could well fit your symptoms (including the burning smell) and I am not convinced a dead alternator would account for non-operational interior lights and hazards... Good luck John