Big John

Hi Depends on what has actually failed. Does nothing work or only some bits? Is it all doors and boot/tailgate or just one or front/back? Do windows work? Kind regards John

Yes the connector the sensor plugs into is part of the front bumper wiring loom. My reading of the fault code is that it is the right inner sensor, so the one nearest the number plate on the right. I think you may have changed the right outer sensor. Good luck

Hi If changing the sensor doesnt work it is probably the front bumper wiring loom. To change either sensors or loom needs the bumper to be removed (not as big a job as it sounds but still likely to take a while!). J

On mine it was the front bumper wiring loom. Could equally be a dodgy parking sensor or a break in the camera wiring loom. The Park Assist and Camera work together as a system so if one bit stops working the car will shout at you to warn that you are on your own and Park Assist / Camera won't be working. Wiring Loom on mine was about £50 ish fitted by Jag Dealer.

Lots of short journeys, particularly with stop-start will quickly drain the battery. The cold will also be making the batteru weaker and the oil thicker/ resitance to turn-over greater. Slow turnover is because battery can't cope. These cars are basically dozens of computers wrapped in mechanics and they don't take kindly to low voltages which trigger erroneous error messages. Sometimes the low voltage can scramble one or more module so that they need re-programming but hopefully if you can get thet battery charged you chould be OK. Remember to attach the -ve cble of the charger to the car body NOT the battery terminal as there is a computer in the battery earth strap and the car will not recognise how much charge you have given the battery unless the current flows through the bttery control module at the end of the earth strap. Good luck John

Hi Phil 14.8 whilst driving is normal. Also be aware that occaisionally the car will enter a diagnostic mode and deliberately discharge the battery to 75% capacity by limiting charging voltage to 12.2v. It does this to test capability of the battery to fulfil a stop-start restart. My guess if the bluetooth monitor is over rearding slightly 🙂 John

Hi Barry. Given the temperatures this morning, battery issues would be top-of my list. Can you give some more detail on the non-start. Did the engine turn over at normal speed or was it sluggish? Have you tried a jump start? If you have a battery charger that would be my first port of call. How old is the battery? Has stop-start worked normally recently? Do you do lots of short journeys? Good luck John

Certainly possible in mine (2013). Key needs to be detected to start but once started it does not shut down if key is no longer detected, the consequences of that could be horrible.... 70 mph at nght in the rain in the outside lane of the M6! In mine you do get dashboard warning if contact with key is lost but the car continues to run. It detected the key when you started up, if the engine was still running it would continue even though the key was no longer detected and your wife drove off. If it then started up for your wife with no key present that would be diffeent. John

Hi Starting point would be a re-gas. If cooling improves when car moving it is probably due to increased airflow over the condenser. If system has less gas than required for full efficiency that extra airflow will be helping to improve the heat exchange. Let us know if a re-cas helps. John

Hi Tim The low voltage of a flat battery has probably corrupted one or more of the many computer modules which control everything in the car (hence Wrinkly's advice on using a CTek which many of us do). A flat battery during first lockdown in mine resulted in non-unlocking rear doors and non-functioning rear windows. The solution is probably to get the software unscrambled. Jaguar dealers will probably want an arm and a leg but garages with the Autologic diagnostic systems seem to be able to sort quite cheaply. I remember there is a garage in Sutton Coalfield(?) which has been mentioned here a few times but probably not viable from Cheshire as you can't get it started. I would ring round Jag specialists in the North west. Jagman in Wigan has a good reputation and I think there is one in North Wales and another in Liverpool that have been recommended here. Good luck John

Hi Obvious advice is to check oil level and then top-up accordingly. If oil level correct next stop would be level sensor but I would certainly be very wary of not sorting it ASAP. If oil level is dropping it is either leaking externally which should be visible under the car or being burnt in the engine which should be visible as blue tinged smoke. Runing with insufficient oil risks a whole host of hurt 😞 Regards John

Hi Never heard of it, or experienced it, in an XF but there is a Topix notice against some Land Rover models : TopIx details: Reference SSM72501 Models Discovery Sport / L550 Range Rover Evoque / L538 Title AJ200 Fuelmisting when filling with fuel Category Engine Last modified 04Nov2015 Symptom 404000 Fuel System Concerns Content Issue: Fuel misting may be seen from the fuel tank filler neck, with the fuel filler cap removed and when filling with Diesel fuel. Discovery Sport &Evoque 2.0 I4 Diesel (AJ200). Cause: When the fuel is returned to the tank from the engine, it is deposited into the swirl pot to maintain the fuel delivery performance of thesystem. The recirculatedfuel is hot, so it may sometimes create a mist inside the tank. When the car is refuelled,the mist may escape through the filler neck and can be seen with a naked eye. This is a natural phenomenon and can only take place if all of the following conditions are met: Low fuel level in the tank (approximately 10 litres or less). Normal fuelling flow rate. A temperature difference of 50 degrees Centigrade (or 122 deg. Fahrenheit or 323 deg. Kelvin) between the fuel inside the swirl pot andthe fuel inside the tank (Example: An engine has been run shortly before refuellingand there was not enough time for the mist tocondensate inside the tank). Action: No action required. Typically such gentle mist may form and escape the fuel tank if the above conditions are met. Hope that helps: John

Hi Michael When the car is locked battery draw should be a few milliamps. Occasionalyl you may get an error in one or more of the modules so that the computers fail to go to sleep properly and continue to draw current. As soon as you unlock the car all of the computer modules wake-up and the car is then drawing maybe 20 Amps. This is why you will quickly get a warning if you sit in the car listening to the radio without the engine running. Personally I would want to be using it more than once a week and that use would need to be a good hour run. Otherwise it probabaly would benefit from a trickle charger such as a CTek when left parked. Good luck John

Hi Mine is the 200bhp 2.2D Sport (more imposing front end) and I am more than happy with performance and economy. The sportbrake does have air suspension at the back which is pretty reliable (very for me). On mine you can hear the air pump (if you listen) running for about 20 seconds about 200 yards after start-up. Advice is pretty standard such as FSH, and they are heavy on brake discs (about 2 years life for me and I am not at all aggressive on them) but a couple of known issues are water ingress in front foot well and spare wheel well in boot. Both of these can drown the computers and cause all sorts of problems. As with the saloon low battery voltage can cause computer issues so lots of owners use a CTek battery charger to keep the battery topped up on a weekly basis. Check every thing electrical actually works. On the 2.2D cambelt cost me £600 at dealer this year but note replacement is now 7 yrs not originally specified 10. I only use V-Power fuel which does increase running costs but have had no issues at all with DPF issues. Good luck in your search

Hi Although mine is 2013 I presume basics are similar. Along with many modern luxury cars the XF has a whole raft of computers which use a LOT of energy. When you are just sat in the car without the engine running the car will be drawing several amps as the computers are all engaged waiting for you to start the car. That is why you get the warnings 🙂 Hopefully the computers will be able to reset themselves without any intervention but the modules are sensitive to low voltage events causing software corruption. Personally I ensure battery is always topped off using my CTek charger once a week. If sitting in the car for awhile I would always keep the engine running as the computers may not shut down if you do not exit and lock the car. John

Hi Sounds like it needs a new outer sill in near future. I had a similar notifaction on my daughters clio and it just needed a new radiator support bracket. I would get a reliable bodyshop to have a look. Good luck John

Hi I would check mileage recorded at service in 2018, along with mileage at any MOT (should be at least one) to compare with current mileage. That will show how much use it has had potentially "unserviced". Given the reduction in most mileages due to covid it could be the previous owner was going off mileage and ignoring the time period for servicing. Obviously main issue with servicing is oil so if it is 3 years overdue a service but has only done 10k since last service I would be happy (if given a decent discount!) John

On mine the work was tried at the purchasing dealer (Fiat/Volvo) so clearly they did not have SDD. The fault came up as Front Outer Parking Sensor which they changed but did not cure the problem so sent me to Jag dealer. My understanding is that the Jag Dealer found the same fault code and, as the sensor was already replaced, had a play with the front bumper loom to arrive at their diagnosis.

Hi. That happened to me too, several times before it finally went altogehter. See what the codes are as it is quite possible it is a dodgy parking sensor or a dodgy connector / bumper loom. Good luck

Hi Camera and parking sensors work as a a coherent parking assistance system so a fault in any component will automatically shut off the other bits of assistance and warn you that you are "on your own". Need to get the codes read with a jaguar compliant code reader but if you have already done the boot loom my bet would be a front parking sensor or the front bumper wiring loom. Mine was the wiring loom. @£40 for the parts from Jaguar. Other possibility would be low battery which throws up all sorts of random faults. Does you Stop/Start work? Good luck

Hi From fig 58 it looks like the front axle differential is built into the gearbox casing, Info from www.jagrepair.com Regards John 2002 MY X-TYPE Transfer box.pdf

Hi The XF is very unforgiving of low voltage and it can cause corruption of the many computers which would cost a lot more to fix than a battery replacement. If I were you I would change the battery now or get a CTek charger to keep the battery topped-up until you do change it. Failing that, at least make sure you do a good hours drive when you do use it. John

On my 2013 XF sportbrake the problem was faulty front bumper wiring loom (front offside parking sensor connection corroded) replaced for less than £200 by Jaguar dealer. On the XF the parking sensors and camera work as a complete system so a fault in any part can shut down all of it, eg a faulty front parking sensor can stop the rear camera working as well as the parking warnings. If it was me I would be trying a good auto-electrician as they should be able to repair the wiring loom or even replace it with a used one for a fraction of that price. I would only expect that sort of cost for replacement of the entire wiring for the car. I know it is apples and oranges but I had the entire front wiring loom replaced on a Peugeot 208 by main dealer for £1200 4 years ago. Good luck

Hi As I said in earlier post mine had this sorted before I got it but it came with a receipt from Preston Jag Centre for @£1100 from late 2017. I have heard good reports about JagMan in wigan. Might be worth a call. Hope you get it sorted OK.

Hi I get @25mpg in town, @35mpg on short journeys to the shops etc, @42mpg on a run and 50+ on a motorway run. Highest I have managed is 62mpg at a steady 55mph on a quiet, flat motorway. Love the car in all of the above scenarios. Your actual figures would depend on how far you are from the motorway at each end, what the traffic on the motorway is like etc, but mid 40's is easily achievable on that sort of journey. 🙂