JustBadly

Only the gasket rings (2) I think you can just about access them without removing manifold casting. When you have one actuator removed, test it with 12v to check it's function and don't get the loom connectors mixed up between the upper and lower actuator.

It isn't the cam cover gasket it is the manifold actuator flap gasket. Check behind the manifold casting and you will find it is wet. Another good reason for an oil catch tank from the engine breather. https://ebay.us/m/IYddQl https://ebay.us/m/OkfXPQ

No, but SDD 131 and mongoose can do it. As soon as you plug it in it will read the car and send you to 'Legacy' IDS. Apparently this version is easy enough to track down and it has to run on WinXP with the PC date August 2012!

I would look into having them remanufactured by a hydraulic fitters company. If you sent the eBay lot to them they could work them over. Since you now have a spare set you should look into it.

The ZF 6HP26 is so reliable few people have ever asked. The most common fault is when a garage runs the engine without any oil in the transmission. This breaks the pump in the transmission, I have heard of a fire in the transmission that cooked 3rd and 4th. Otherwise a service changing the filter and fluid fixes it. What's the problem?

Start with the basics, check the diff oil level. It takes about 750ml of fluid and is simple to suction out and refill, not a bad idea since original 19yr old fluid will be in there. I use Smith & Allen FS 75w-140.

Only SDD/IDS can access immobiliser faults. Then you can remove the battery sounder and strike it off the dealer options. A fault signal from the battery sounder will trigger the main alarm. Diagnostics will tell you if a module is playing up, all in all recommended. Until then you are doing as much as you can.

Not as scary as it sounds, a Dedicated Ground Return is a negative cable from the alternator that runs back to the battery. Here I have bolted a tag to the alternator housing with the cable lug riveted. Cable is pure copper 8awg, and I used 5 meters. From the tag to behind the FR wheel liner then along the RH rocker cover, then behind the RR wheel liner above the exhaust to a convenient blind grommet into the boot. This is delivering a better charge and it is not surprising since the negative to the battery runs thru 3 meters of mild steel chassis after the engine. The DRG is also better for canbus due to lower signal interference.

I have these and put them in 5 years ago now! Recommended. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/165076815757

I think this is what you want. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/276758430601

The upper panel has a chip right next to the on/off button. Given time the soldered pins will fail due to board flex, causing this. Remove air-con controller and resolder chip that should do it.

Lower the window by 11". Remove the door card and sticky foam, cut thru the flexible glue. Loosen the two window clamp bolts and remove the glass, always use a suction cup to hold the glass. Remove the speaker box then disconnect the connectors from the door lock and window motor - access the window connector via the port in the door. Unbolt and remove the window slider frame. I have removed the window motor and gearbox but it is not strictly needed, using T25 remove the DC motor and worm drive. Clean the shaft and apply a mid to heavy grease. The light oil used by Jaguar dries and there is metal contact, greatly slowing the DC motor. With that done replace, paying attention to the brush contacts. Re assembly is a reverse of the procedure. With the glass now in keep the window bolts loose and close the window fully, now tighten the glass clamps. Result: one rejuvenated window motor.

If the console is removed and the drop down pocket accessed, the spring can be biased to closing the hatch. It means that when it is 'opened' it only drops slightly and the clip can keep it shut whereas normally it cannot.

The intake flap gaskets are prone to leaking and drip oil goo onto the exhaust downpipe causing smoke on startup. They are accessed at the back of the inlet manifold casting. Gaskets are available from eBay, don't get the electrical connectors mixed up. This advice is for the V6 petrol.

It wouldn't hurt to introduce some lubricant into the vacuum device since there are several springs in there. A spray oil (no silicone) for example, there has to have been a grease or otherwise used during assembly and by this time it will have dried out. Galling, or cold welding as it is sometimes referred to, is a form of severe adhesive wear between two metal surfaces.