JustBadly

The upper panel has a chip right next to the on/off button. Given time the soldered pins will fail due to board flex, causing this. Remove air-con controller and resolder chip that should do it.

Lower the window by 11". Remove the door card and sticky foam, cut thru the flexible glue. Loosen the two window clamp bolts and remove the glass, always use a suction cup to hold the glass. Remove the speaker box then disconnect the connectors from the door lock and window motor - access the window connector via the port in the door. Unbolt and remove the window slider frame. I have removed the window motor and gearbox but it is not strictly needed, using T25 remove the DC motor and worm drive. Clean the shaft and apply a mid to heavy grease. The light oil used by Jaguar dries and there is metal contact, greatly slowing the DC motor. With that done replace, paying attention to the brush contacts. Re assembly is a reverse of the procedure. With the glass now in keep the window bolts loose and close the window fully, now tighten the glass clamps. Result: one rejuvenated window motor.

If the console is removed and the drop down pocket accessed, the spring can be biased to closing the hatch. It means that when it is 'opened' it only drops slightly and the clip can keep it shut whereas normally it cannot.

The intake flap gaskets are prone to leaking and drip oil goo onto the exhaust downpipe causing smoke on startup. They are accessed at the back of the inlet manifold casting. Gaskets are available from eBay, don't get the electrical connectors mixed up. This advice is for the V6 petrol.

It wouldn't hurt to introduce some lubricant into the vacuum device since there are several springs in there. A spray oil (no silicone) for example, there has to have been a grease or otherwise used during assembly and by this time it will have dried out. Galling, or cold welding as it is sometimes referred to, is a form of severe adhesive wear between two metal surfaces.

The rechargable battery inside the alarm box fails, then the alarm sounds the time. A garage will simply disconnect it. I think I will look at mine and see to replacing the batteries, but probably only when it starts to play up

What type of EPB - Twin wheel mount or single cable actuator?

The place it is situated couldn't be worse for maintenance, if it faults it's a towaway followed by considerable cost. Not to mention the garage has to gather all parts before taking the job on so you lose your car for a month. It really is the elephant in the room for the S Type. Doing this means the actuator is protected from spray, freezing temperature, dust etc. Everything is within reach for servicing. Don't get me wrong this method of EPB is very good since the brake is cable actuated and that lowers unsprung mass but my EPB has not been moved since new and it showed. I had difficulty pulling the EPB cable and all the bolts were a rusted lump. All told this cost about £40 and the original actuator has gone back in yet some clown on eBay wants £1250 for a new S Type parkbrake. Need I say more?

Here I present my conversion removing the parkbrake from it's location above the differential to the spare wheel tub. The diff has to be dropped a few inches with a special tool T10179 needed for the rear bolts. Given space the parkbrake eases out. The actuator was quite rusted and I had to grind every bolt down. However internally it was all ok with new Allens fitted for reassembly. I chose to extend the loom from the parkbrake and feed it to the original plug under the car, the wires to the parkbrake module are very thin. Making a loom rather than intercepting those wires was the easiest option. The parkbrake bolted to the side of the tub with the cable running out to the original route and being reconnected to the cables as normal. The way the cable actuator operates means that for it to be fitted internally there is about one place for it to go. I wanted to do this for a while and although it did not cost a great amount it was a hard days work I don't mind saying.

Pull the ddr module and resolder the chips. With the vibration of driving and door function it can cause pin solder cracks. My car was not responding to the key fob. I bought another ddr module but reworked the original. Now I have 2 working ddr modules. This is the first thing I will do with electrical faults.

Here I am changing the hood release cable from a two piece to single cable. I have a 3.6m brake cable and pinch bolts, these are bicycle parts. I remove the pear nipple and retain the barrel nipple. I am going to secure the cable with two pinch bolts, they will exchange with the standard cable attachments. After cutting the cable attachment the 1st release cable can be pulled thru the cable outer from the driver compartment. Then the second cable release is cut and removed. Although the replacement cable is thicker (1.5mm) it still fits thru the original cable outer. Here I have passed it into the engine compartment. The pinch bolt must be placed on the cable before passing thru the second cable outer. Then it is a simple case of securing the second pinch bolt and the hood catch mechanism. I have had the standard hood release cable break and after some thought this is my solution, it is quite secure and durable, low cost and took about 1.5hrs labour - negating the need to replace the entire cable assembly -which is no small job. Quite within the capability of an independent garage or competent mechanic.

The windscreen drain can block 'inside' the vehicle since this can happen frequently it is your responsibility to check this.The rear of the Chassis - forward of the back wheel has cutouts for jig alignment. Due to modern tire width water is not only splashed outward but forward. Meaning water is able to enter the cutouts causing inevitable internal corrosion. I made simple oversized bungs from packing foam and gorilla tape to fill these holes.

The driver floor pan deteriorates if the windscreen drain is blocked. It overflows below the wiper drain and reaches the floor pan. The rear arches go due to water splash from the rear wheels entering the chassis from the cut-aways forward of the rear wheel. I made removable bungs to fill these.

Plenty of S Type parts here Berkshire Jag

Tell the people who said they will refurb the unit that, if they can't do anything with the unit they MUST return it to you. Then send it to me, I will give it some PCB rework and we'll see if that does it. Don't worry, I work for an electronics firm and there isn't much we can't do. PM me if ok.

Try Auto Reserve Jaguar, they recover parts from running cars and the parts are guaranteed. I made an override kit for my S Type. https://www.jaguarownersclub.com/forums/topic/26212-parkbrake-override-kit

There is a second electronic device within the key fob! This is 'powered' by the car when the key is inserted. The original key must be completely dismantled to get at this, it is shaped like a pill. I hope you haven't disposed of the original key yet.

Lumen output was calibrated using wiki figures and configuring app. Don't believe 1600 lumens for a fog light, the brightest torches are 1800 and they can light up forest. The brake and indicator are canbus but the rest is not monitored on my 2004. I have bought several 'brighter' T10s only they are never that good, so I decided to repurpose the H3 but it still only draws 4.5 watts and won't blow a fuse. I've got led all round but had to rewire the tail lights since jaguar have the negative swapped to positive. Same with the indicators.

The standard side light on our Jag is a feeble effort given todays vehicles so I decided to increase the Lux by 'swapping' the 5 watt filament bulb with an H3 led. What is good about the H3 is that it is the same width as the filament bulb and will fit thru the mounting hole into the reflector. The H3 was pulled apart and the driver removed with a copper strip board soldered in place. This allows the H3 to plug in to the standard bulb holder. The driver was soldered in line and connected to the loom with crimp connectors. It fills the reflector with light now but is not so bright to dazzle. The original bulb is approx 8 lumens, the H3, 20 lumens.

Restricted performance is usually due to emissions/cat fault. Limp mode usually gearbox. I would restrict driving to a minimum.

What is the engine capacity and has the radiator been changed for an aftermarket one? The other thing that can happen is a new rad splitting - that is the channels running across the rad 'part'.

headlamp LH The difference between headlamp units is if it is HID or normal argon beam.

Fluid level is low. Mine had a crack in the oil filter/pan only about 1.5ltr in it. Warning light would go on every day and usually when selecting reverse. Used a pump and forced 7 litres into the sump - has been great ever since. Don't know about this 'dribble' business that's how to seize the trans pump - an auto is a wet clutch gearbox and needs a large reservoir.

Had the minor news that the steering tie rods were playing. Garage said it was about 1 hours work and (god forbid) they would also realign the steering. Took it upon myself to replace both sides and honestly it was not that bad. Essential to have the tools so I purchased a universal tie rod wrench for the inners. Jaguar use the ear-type band for the CV boot anyway and they are cheap enough. Tightened the inner tie rods to 100Nm with loctite thread lock and checked wheel alignment with a laser. Super.

The driver door module is at fault here. What you need do is remove the DDR and take out the PCB. Then resolder the chips on the board. The soldered legs on the biggest chip have failed due to heat and vibration. You can tell this because the fault is intermittent, not a failure. By a coincidence I have worked on a DDR this week, picture below. It has 60 pins and a fine solder tip is needed. Do this and it will work again.