JustBadly

If I am working on the car and a wheel is off, when I have a break I put up netting over the work area. Scares the kids into leaving well alone. No accidents, squashed people, paperwork, etc.

Decided to buy one after last winter and how the Jag crank rate drops in cold weather. So the car was sat for 5 full days and the battery had dropped to 11.9v. I've got a voltage monitor on the centre console and when I connected the power leads it raised to 13.8v, not seeing any point waiting I turned the ignition to start and it started really well. What a tool! After starting the charge on the jump starter had dropped to 84%,

I've had them in for over a year and they are working fine. If you want the product details I can do this. The sales page showed part dimensions and I was able to compare emitter height vs standard filament. Once I had that I knew the beam pattern would be identical to a standard bulb - except much brighter! Having said that, main beam isn't too bad but standard dip beam is almost dangerous. These sort it out and are comparable to HID.

Best headlights ever, makes it look like daylight. Dip beam has a fan, full beam does not. Recent changes to the mot mean that led lights can be used on a vehicle when not original equipment, providing the beam pattern is satisfactory.

I think it is a diesel and the injectors need to be reseated since gas from the compression stroke is leaking past them.

Water from the windscreen runoff gets between the glass and the cowl. Seal that up to stop the water. Check the cowl drain isn't blocked. Water onto the engine is never good. What engine is that? Looks like a diesel.

Found the ground point, it's at the top right of the screen. Power-in is near the base of the screen. Anyways, the all the connections check out it's the screen that's at fault. Can't even buy a new one because the screen companies require insurance details to replace it. Will have to wait for a big crack.

Where will I find the earth connector on the windscreen? RHS is not working and I've checked the supply side of the circuit, which is all ok. Everything's good from the +12v supply, the trigger from the AC unit, relay link, cable from fuse box to the windscreen connector. Which leaves the negative strap from the windscreen, don't want to waste time and skin from knuckles.

So I removed the centre bolt for the flywheel, about 175nm I think. Next I had to purchase a 4" puller and cut the arms in half. This allowed a smaller pull radius since the V6 flywheel is dinky, it didn't take much force to remove it. The old crank seal came out with the seal pick, a little stubborn but no drama. In with the new one and I must say it is important to use a press-kit and don't over insert the seal, keep an eye on it and leave it flush with the engine casing. The flywheel was next and I had to make a thin washer as the bolt was short when it came to pressing on. With that on I tightened it to about 150nm, I will check again in a week but that was enough for me that day. Took about 5 hours although I didn't have to drain the water coolant.

If you've got time, swap the catalyst sensors over between exhausts. If the fault changes side it's the sensor. If it stays it's the catalyst.

Putting the tools together.

Anyone replaced the front crank seal, and did a universal crank seal tool kit do the job?

I did a silly thing on Saturday, I dismantled and cleaned the throttle body! After 98k the sides were coated with a thick oily residue. Amazingly, the engine characteristics have changed. The transmission is smoother, it revs freely and it starts with a roar. I think this is because the idle/low rpm was rich before the cleaning! So there are several reasons why the ZF can give odd running.

Changed one of them today, I did this as an exploratory repair since I was unsure how the process would pan out. Now you can see the new bush is on the roll-bar. Very few tools needed, the biggest task was to undo the 13mm a/f bolt due to grime coating the threads. Very little room in there but there is enough ceiling to allow the capture flap to be removed. Then a pry bar gets the old bush out. Easy enough but that's when it gets tricky and take heed, the workshop manual gives no guide on how to change this bush except for removing the subframe. They are right - so I cheated!

Sent email to a Jaguar CCM specialist: On Wed, May 5, 2021 at 12:43 PM Tests done to diagnose the problem: Realised Amp meter had blown fuse, replaced then ran fuse 10 testa again Fuse measured 1.95A with AC off. AC on, hi temp - 4.02A. AC on, lo temp - 5.65A. Sorry about that. _______________________ Current level you measured are too high. The DCCV probably has a short circuit inside.

Just had the climate control start flashing the LCD display with code 'd2' on the passenger side. Is this a control valve error? If so that's easy - advice welcome.

The ride has been noisy from the back of the car, suspecting the anti-roll bar bushes I sprayed some snake oil on them. Sure enough the ride was quiet the following day. I think I'll go in from the side with a wheel off - what could go wrong? Maybe I'll post a pictorial guide.

I was looking through the manual today and I found a section about new keys. This said that up to 8 keys can be stored on the system. To store a new key, insert key into ignition and turn key to switch on ignition (do not start the engine). Leave ignition on for not more than 5 seconds then turn off ignition and remove key. After 10 seconds insert second key, turn to switch on ignition and leave on for not more than 5 seconds. Turn off ignition and remove key. Wait 10 seconds and repeat as necessary.

Noticed a fault in the last week or so. Remote key buttons not working but I can still start the car and drive. The remote works occasionally so I tried the second key with the first and both work. When the 1st remote does not work, neither key does so it's the car. The ignition transponder is working since I can start the car, that leaves the door module and remote receiver in the centre console. Anyone have a better idea? or is this a common fault with a common fix...

Have a look at this then Conversion

The EPB cable will hook onto the caliper lever if the caliper is off the disc since the lever can freely travel. Or you can wind back the piston, then unhook the cable, etc. Awkward however you try.

I happily buy from eBay, reconditioned units mean it is a Jaguar part. The alternator I bought has a smaller pulley to aid low rpm charging. If I needed a new starter I'd buy it from the same people. The catalogue number is a guide for your vehicle part but sellers often want the VIN code.

The modification here is solely to do with the backlight. If your radio has an additional fault then you might purchase another radio from a Jaguar parts specialist. Naturally, you will still have to fix the backlight on the replacement unit.

After I start the car I release the EPB by using the cabin switch and before putting into gear. When parking I'll place it into park then activate the EPB before turning off the engine. I just hate error codes.

Might have found it! Checked over the engine for vacuum leaks and found a hole in the engine breather. Replaced the hose length, will see if all is ok next run.