Jimbob64

Wow, I thought I had updated this thread... The Jag was fixed eventually. Turned out the new alternator was faulty (or at least had compatability issues with the ecu) so took a punt and fitted another. After a reset all was fixed. I had loads of help and advice from many people so thanks to all. On a sadder note, it was written off earlier this year and is no more 🥲 I'm selling all of the modules I bought on Ebay atm so if anyone is interested give me a shout. Adios.

Hi all. I was going to update when the vehicle was up and running. It's still not. To save a lengthy post see: https://www.jaginfo.org/threads/help-with-sdd-smartkey-problem-and-others.113707/#post-2885067 I'm currently in the process of replacing the GWM and DBM to try and cure the battery not charging issue. The key problem was easy to sort (but will reoccur if CJB is not replaced/flashed). If and when I sort the charging problem I will remove the CJB and have it flashed. I've also been very busy so haven't had the time to work on the Jag - I'll update when things change. This is the cable and software - https://www.obdiitool.co.uk/wholesale/jlr-mangoose-sdd-pro.html The software (V160) and cable were£32.00 and take about a week to arrive. I use mine on Windows 10 pro (took a while to install correctly) Good luck

on another note, I managed to restore the central locking using the SDD setup 🥂

Another update... I couldn't easily get the vehicle to a suitable garage due to my location and distance required to drive so I got myself a Mongoose OBD cable and SDD software and after much hair pulling I managed to get some success... It appears that my fault is down to the dual battery fuse box (part number - CX23-14K131-BC) It's easy enought to get to and replace, I just have to find one now... If anyone has one hanging around in their shed/kitchen draw/man cave then please give me a shout..

Thanks again John. I'll have a look at those dowloads although you are correct in your assumption that it needs a garage to sort... I'm trying to find someone local who has the SDD set up who might be able to generate a proper code. Cheers.

Hi John. I've checked the voltage with engine under load (12.0v), at tickover (12.2) and engine off (12.4v). It appears not to be charging at all - I can drive around 40 miles before other fault messages occur on the dash and by this time the battery voltage has dropped to around 11.7v and causes a gearbox fault and the power steering stops working... I then recharge battery and all other faults are gone, just the battery not charging warning written on the dash. I've reset the BMS each time the battery has been disconnected, checked all fuses with a meter and done a visual check along all plugs and cables. My nearest dealer is about 70 miles away, although the autologic garage is a bit nearer. I just don't want to break down and have to be recovered...

Hi all. I'm no further along with this as I've not had much time. If anyone has anything extra to add I would be extremely grateful. So far: New battery, new BMS module, new Alternator and visual check and clean of rear junction box. I don't have access to a proper code reader, local garage has a basic one which gives a fault - P065C - which is a general generator fault. I am thinking of buying a mongoose cable and SDD set up but having never used them I'm concerned that I won't understand fully how to use it... I live in a rural location so driving any distance for a diagnostic is out of the question as I probably wouldn't make it home again. Thanks.

So, another update. Replaced BMS module (on -ve lead), no change so bit the bullet and replaced alternator, no change... Pulling hair out so removed batteries and carriers to access fuse box underneath the small battery, found some corrosion on the bottom connector. Cleaned corrosion, checked fuses, checked relays (visual check), all looking good so reassemble - NO CHANGE STILL... If anyone out there has any thoughts, be my guest... P.S. Had codes read at local indy, just said generator fault...

No, both AGM

Cheers John, I've measured the voltages of both batteries, engine off, running, and under load. The small battery behaves normally in all of those conditions (13.30v, 13.37v, 14.00v)Large battery reads: engine off - 12.48v, engine running - 12.24v, under load - 12.00v As the small battery behaves normally, I'm hoping you are correct. I will see how it behaves over the next few days. Unfortunately I dont have access to a code reader at the moment so can't do any more than monitor. Thanks, James.

It seems my current problem is bigger than before. Just put the new battery on but still have the battery not charging light on the dash. I've put a meter on the terminals and it appears that the large battery isn't charging. The small battery is charging as normal so I presume the alternator is ok... Anyone have any wise thoughts? Thanks, James.

http://www.garejarwyn.co.uk Garej Arwyn’s Garage in Caernarfon has the Autologic software - I've not called them to see if they have done this particular job though

Just to bring this thread back to life, I have had a recurrance of this issue. Short story - Wife driving away from home and battery not charging light come on dash. She drove home approx 2 hrs and by the time she got home all manner of warning lights were showing. Had battery checked and confirmed that the battery had failed (13 months old) and was showing 64% on my local garage machine. New battery being installed today but the central locking isn't working and I'm pretty sure I will have to have a trip to a garage using Autologic software - luckily I've found one closer to home (although MDM were brilliant...). Watch this space...

Always connect (via jump leads) a spare, fully charged battery to the + and - leads whilst changing the battery - I learned my lesson...

Fantastic. I thought it was something like that but didn't want to get your hopes up. Mention the forum (and the chap with the sport brake who had the key cover).

I honestly can't remember as they also sprayed and supplied a lock cover for me. Give them a call and explain the problem - they are familiar with it now so should be able to give a rough idea of cost.

My garage did the latter, however the voltage in the donor battery was lower than required and still triggered the problem. A freshly charged battery or a charger is the best way to go.

Doesn’t work in this instance... (ymmv)

Find the nearest garage with an Autologic machine and book it in. Takes about 10-15 minutes.

Fantastic, It's great to pass it along... I'm in Dolgellau but have family in Leics. so made a short weekend of it. I'm going back in a couple of weeks to have a second key coded too.

Hi. I wanted to add to this thread as I encountered the same problem after a local garage installed a new battery for me. Without all the detail, their Autel system wouldn't reprogram so I went to another placewith the JLR software which also didn't work... I then came across this thread and booked in with a garage who use the Autogic software. 10 minute and on my way, all done. They're an indy Jag specialist. MDM Services Unit 4 Stephenson Industrial Estate Coalville, Leicester LE67 3HP 01530 838666 No affiliation at all to said garage but they were fantastic - fitted me in without an appointment and were well priced. (oh, and thanks to the posters who gave this info in the first place )