Jimbov8

Can you post a picture of your multimeter with the settings you have it on for measuring voltage. It may be that it’s not set up right.

Hi Chris, As you’re in God’s county, Chris Isles at Doncaster is the guy you want for servicing. Very friendly, knowledgeable and reasonable prices. I drive mine throughout winter unless there is snow on the roads however, 3 things if you want to take it off the road, pump the tyres to around 45psi, will help stop flat spots. Fill the tank with fresh fuel and get yourself a CTEK charger/maintainer. As for water in the boot, I personally have not heard of anyone with this problem on an XK so worth check the seals around the boot and lights. Hope this helps.

Wakey wakey Alfie, you’ve been dreaming again.🤣

Sad individuals who’ve nothing better to do.

How long did you charge the battery for? At rest, engine off a fully charged battery should read 12.8v. These cars do not like low voltages as strange things start to happen.

Have a look behind the number plate. Failing that, open the bonnet and hook up a supply to a positive and ground, purely for the purpose of opening the boot.

No problems David, that’s what we’re here for. PS, here’s mine.

Won’t make any difference David, just means you have more available umph for starting.

This all stems from the 10 or so new joiners within an hour. It has been reported.

I have already reported this garbage as I had one sent to me also.

Ok Terry, will wait for tomorrow then.😊

That’s correct Terry, just switch to V with the solid and dotted line. Then just connect to the battery and read off what it says, no need to worry about the other dial.

I would go for Varta. Which ever you go for, give it a charge before fitting as they rarely come fully charged.

Let us know how you get on.

Ok Terry, basics first. Multimeter on dc volts and probes directly to the battery, you should have at least 12.8v for a fully charged battery. These cars don’t like low voltages so anything lower and it should be charged.

I would check your battery is fully charged first.😉

It either pulls from the top or the bottom, can’t remember which.

It certainly won’t harm anything Martyn especially if it has never been changed. 14 years is long time to have the same oil in the system.

Hi Mike, the 2 fuses to check are F11 10A and F25 10A, both in the primary junction fuse box. If they are good then check for 12v at the light, one side should be live as the ground is done through the front electronic module. If you don’t have 12v on one side of the light then you may have a problem within the loom.

Looks very nice Christopher, a credit to you.😎

As I recall, my brand new one from a Jaguar dealer was £108 + vat, as I said, always worth checking your local dealer first.😉

Same as mine so no problems. Worth checking with your local dealer for a price also unless the one you have seen is ridiculously cheap.😉

Jaguar forums are littered with people whose cars have had battery problems that seem completely unrelated. Google is your friend, search for a Jaguar independent Specialist in your area and get the car to them.

I assume you mean the lights on the outside Mandy, either way, yes they are the same.

I agree with Peter, getting the codes read will help immensely. Having read the scenario I would also check the output from the alternator. The battery and associated cables should also be checked.