mrmike

The Distilled water/Antifreeze was just to get him to the service date and subsequent replacement of the rad. M

I would not use radweld or anything similar, Carry a 2 ltr bottle of distilled water or better still 50% antifreeze. However it is your car! M

I would not change to Zenon because It requires the self levelling setup/relative sensors/wiring and software changes to your system. M

I don't know where you are in Europe but a local breaker would be able to fix you up probably off the shelf these days. Make sure it is the same type and that hopefully the adjustment system is OK. Repair kits for this are readily available for about 60 quid. By the way the way you need to remove the front to do the job. M

Check Clauses guide. your problem is the 1 The DCCV valve, ( supposedly terribly unreliable, I bought a new one immediately, but it was not the problem) 2 The Control Computer 3 The wiring to the DCCV. On LHD cars the connections go through the LHS end of the Dashboard, Cover is removable with door open. From the car Cct diagram you can see the relevant contacts. You can control both sides of the DCCV from here. Using a tester (preferably analogue) and / or a small 12V bulb and a ptece of wire and croc clips etc. It is a PWM system If you do not understand please go through the procedure I mentioned in a previous post from the american Jaguar forum. It is excellent...... The whole system is complicated but your problem is most probably quite simple. Good luck. M

OK

The last 5 numbers ie 45594 in your case. it is part of the VIN for Barratt and many other suppliers. You can find a definition of the VIN on the net. Check it out. M

lift the wheel up, rotate it by hand and have a listen. M

Check the OEM number on it. From the Barratt catalogue, 3.0L I have for up to VIN M45254 RHD XR816503 and from VIN M45255 C2Z13764 But they don't quote LHD or RHD. However yours should be in the earlier group. There are no pics or diagrams to help. Hope this might be of some help. RHD breakers might be a bit thin on the ground, SA, AU,JP, and Cyprus. BTW have you tried Barratts? M

Last year when my header tank went, I looked on EU Ebay sites , New ones for 100 E plus. Lithuania is often a good source. But found mine in a local breaker. M

Try Barratt SNG, www.sngbarratt.com, part number varies according to VIN/LHD/RHD. Btw the catalogue for the S-Type is free. Excellent just as a guide. Very good comms. M

I had all these probs with my 2005 Diesel after about a year, Bought a new battery and Soldered the wires onto the all connectors, cleaned the battery terminals (New Battery) and cleaned the now soldered connector to the bodywork and the body work itself. No Probs at all after 3 years. I did measure the current drawn from the battery when everything is off but I don't remember what it was. I rember thinking though that after a couple of weeks of non use there could be a problem. I never leave the car for more than a week without driving at least 30Kms. I remember my 200Kompressor took about 100mA for the first half hour after everything was off and then about 50mA thereafter. A quick calc with a NEW 100AH battery means half discharged after 3 to 4 weeks. M

Fairly cheap to get a new set of solenoids and get them fitted. If you have good access you could do it yourself. One other thing, there is a multicore cable connecting to the GB. Clean the connectors. You could probably do a complete fluid change ataa competent garage too. This GB is vrtually bulletproof..... There are many threads on this box, check on the BMW site for more info. M

Is it in Sport mode?

Read the OEM part number and go to a good breaker. ( 20 Euros in Spain) When you find one check inside that it doesn't have any signs of Radweld etc having been used. Mine had it, I foolishly looked on the web and put a load of rice into it and shook it around. Fairly Useless, It took me a day to get all the rice out. In the end I used Petrol. Took me an entire day to finally get it clean.

Be warned though that the maps are way out of date and resolution of the screen is 640x480 or worse. We use a sort of smart phone holder which sort of sticky underneath slightly modified to hold a 6/7 inch navigator, TomTom or Igo. It needed modding ( A piece of wire and an elastic band) to stop the nav unit falling off under acceleration. The mount works fine here in Spain with the heat etc

Go Jagdroid, who wants a crappy 12 year old map anyway. Yes, yourLaser reader is stuffed, could just be dust on the lens etc or the laser power has gone down with old age. I removed just the laser / transport mechanism from inside the Nav unit. I get no messages about problems with the nav unit etc.

You need to check if the DCCV is working It is the valve that is pulse modulated by the clima computer. Obviously one side is remaining open passing hot coolant. If I remember correctly there are 2 possible faults, (Actually more) Faulty DCCV, Faulty control unit, these are the usual culprits. There is an excellent A/C fault finding guide. Do a search for it, It is on the US site. If you check my posts from a couple of years ago you will find the Url. Good luck, yours is usually a relatively simple problem to resolve. Mine was complicated it was the compressor and the manual is wrong.

I couldn't remember the name before, "JagDroid" is the way to go with all its latest whistles and bells it's gone a long way from the first versions that I saw a few years ago. Just had a look and it seems excellent.

You used to be able to get a new Laser module and / or get the Actual DVD player mechanics fitted with a new Laser unit for about a hundred pounds. I was put off by the quality of the map that I saw when I did get it working. Already today TomTom here in Spain is not very good, I have Carminat in my Renault and it has the latest update but there are still many minor roads missing. A map from 12 years will lead to a lot of frustration. BTW I can still choose Jaguar or daimler on start up screen.

I removed from the Nav DVD unit in the boot unit just the DVD player mechanical components including the ribbon cable and the central screen works perfectly. I had thought maybe it was possible to replace it with a memory stick. I still have all functionality except the nav system.

I played with the Laser levels but although it did work for an hour oe so the quality/data of the latest map from 2012 (480 pixel screen) was terrible. I removed the DVD part completely and use Igo or tomtom on other devices. There is a way to build an Android system for the centre display but it is very complicated for most people and would cost about 500E. Note Build, That is what you have to do if you want a modern updateable nav system with all your jag steering wheel and screen controls. I think there is a guy who sells them but I have no details. M

The dashcam I have (not fitted) has an inline fuse already. I think that it is better to have a 2 Amp inline fuse just for the cam. Be careful if the wiring can chafe anywhere on the body work. Without going to a circuit diagram check if you have any contacts permanently live in the 2 dash panels.

My 2005 2.7D is absolutely rust free. Jag life on the Costa del Sol and Costa blanca with 240K on the clock. There are lots of S-Types around for >2K especially 2.5s and 3.0s. I saw a great one at a local super market which the owner had bought for E500, it had to go and the local breaker would only offer E400, The present owner has put a bit of money into it with every bit of chrome and w.h.y. available. Some with shot engines and no rust can be picked up for peanuts. Could be a sound basis for a rebuild for someone with an MOT failure with time and space on their hands. No need to go to California! M

Just followed the instructions in the manual.