mrmike

Does the A/C work? There are some codes that come up on mine but they are irrelevant, Maybe they were for earlier models etc. Cheers M

Thanks Joe, I think that on mine too the bumper has to come off, Mine are just dim and the lens appears dark. I'll wait untill it gets a tad warmer at the end of next month. Thanks again. Mike

Does anyone happen to have the OEM numbers for the HID bulbs (2005 2.7D) , As a matter of interest, what voltage do they require? Cheers Mike

Still Perfect, My car sometimes is not used for a week or slightly more like now, Just got over Covid! The car is outside and I do not have a charger etc, true it is rare that the temperature goes below 0C but it regularly goes over 37C in the summer. I cannot stress enough the importance of very good battery connections for reliable starting and lack of ominous messages.

I read up on this a couple of years ago, If I rememer correctly the belts should be changed every 160KKms or 10 years. According to the service history they were changed at 162kKms when the car had 12 yrs, now 5 yrs and 70KKms later I am not particularly bothered. Fingers Crossed. Actually last week I changed the timing belt on my son's Camper, It is 30 yrs old, and has 220KKms on the clock. The last belt change was at 100kKms. The old belt looked perfect but the difference in the cam timing was about 2 or 3 degrees.

Interesting, I had read on the US Forum that because of the heat, air was able to draw in dust etc as it cooled and that this was the main cause. Aging of the HID bulbs was given as a cause of reduced light ouput but no mention was made of them becoming black, That said, what you said makes sense. We will probably return to the UK next year so the Cat will be remaining in Spain, seeing as we rarely go out of the town at night, I don't think I will bother doing anything with the lights unless our plans change. I bought the car 3 years ago and the botchup had already been done. Mike

I live in Southern Spain and the sun hits the front of the car when parked everyday at about1pm. Each year I go over the headlights with what is basically Brasso, it takes about 30 mins to get them back to a very good condition. My main problem is the lenses which look black so the lights are not very bright. I think they get dirty inside. But the removal of the front looks quite daunting. My headlights have the screw botchup which works fine but are just somewhat dim. Mike

I used wet/dry 1500 then 2000 grade abrasive paper + water and then metal polish to finish off, Hard work and it lasts about a year under the Spanish sun. It took about 2 hrs to do by hand. There are many videos on youtube about how to do it etc. Good luck Mike

Change the gearbox oil, be sure it is for the 6 speed box don't be fobbed off. Many mechanics put in the cheap 5 speed box stuff and that is instant grief. Mine had had judder at between 1700 and 2000 rpm when under light acceleration. When you change the transmission fluid you can only change about 3 of the 8 litres with the drain plug and top up system. The first time there was a definite difference. ( I had 3 new litres of fluid and 5 now of the old ) After A couple of months I repeated this (Now I had 3 new litres and 5 litres of the previous mix) More improvement and no juddering at all. Just recently I have noticed a very slight judder at around 2K rpm. I will shortly repeat the 3 litre change again. As you can imagine this is a crap method. I understand that the best way is to use the proper machine, dissing the connections to the Trans Fluid cooler and flushing and then refilling with 8 litres of the correct trans fluid. My drain plug (10mm) was stuffed, I made a tool to remove it and then I got a new one for an automatic mini. (No jag dealer here) the filler uses an 8mm allen key Which needs to be cut down because of chassis clearance and then use an 8mm ring spanner on the inseted piece. It will undo with a bit of force. This is the cheap solution, there is a kit with filter and seals for the valves if you have really good access or deeper pockets for the better solution/ Good luck

It was only because It was not in the list as first presented. And I stand by my 6.5 litres taking the level on the dipstick to the top of the top ball when hot. I had also read that the correct level was 6.6L. The first time I put in 6.6 litres, (Car had been well drained from underneath first). The level on the dipstick was at the top ball, after going for a run and measuring it was over the top of the ball. After having read about the runaway diesels I was aghast. (They were DPFs which I had not realised) I removed half a litre Phew all OK. (The non DPF cars were only produced for about 6 months I believe, so maybe there was a small difference somewhere in the engine construction) I had a BMW X3 2.0D and used to keep an eye on the oil level which rose quite a lot over 10K Kms, I used to remove some when it got high. Back to the Jag, Since that first time I have put in 6L every time, In 40K Kms and 5 changes I have not had to add or remove any oil between the regular changes. I think the Castrol Magnatech is better in my engine, just seems quieter, Probably just me! Old !Removed! with dodgy ears that pick up on any slightest spurious sounds, My wife says I'm mad, she can't hear anything and to stop worrying.

My 2,7D is not in the List (EU), Manual says 6,5L. I used Castrol Magnatec 5/30 up until the last change. This Time there was a special offer 0n Castrol edge 5/30 ( And it was recommended forthe 2.7D) so I used that. I have noticed it takes just a tick longer for the oil light to go out. With 6 litres cold the dipstick is about 5/8. I have tried before with 6.5 and the level is at the top of the dipstick (over the top when hot) so 6L is OK. New filter everytime. Non DPF car, level is constant between changes every 10K Km

Absolute No, No. Like so called perpetual motion machines, especially the ones using a motor and a generator. If your battery needs trickle charging due to the vehicle not being used for longish periods, Ok, Otherwise get a new battery. I had a Merc before the S, I measured the current drawn from the battery. On switching off the ignition and lights off, current drawn was a bit over 150mA, after about a minute this dropped to 60mA where it remained. this means that without using the car and with a 100AH battery in good condition the battery would have about 50% of its capacity after about a month. During the pandemic many batteries went to the wall due to lack of use of the vehicle or rare and short journeys.

I would in effect connect the camera etc across the reversing lights respecting required polarity. If wire 4 goes to 0V when reverse is selected then the camera should be connected to the positive (+12V) rail and wire 4. I don't have the cct diagram so I don't know how wire 4 is taken to 0V (Chassis), I presume there is a relay that performs ths task. Connecting the camera across the reversing lights would be easy. As for the monitor is it also for a forward cam, does it switch on immeditely, if not it would need to be constantly powered when the ignition is on. The car's equipment has power (+12V) attached to one side and the equipment / function is activated when the other side is taken directly or indirectly (Relay) to 0V ie. chassis potential. Hope this is a bit clearer. Cheers Mike BTW. get yourself a testmeter or a 12V bulb with a couple of wires soldered to it, fit a crock clip to the wire attached to the brass base of the bulb. Fit a clip of some sort to the other wire. Clipping the crock clip to a chassis point, the bulb can be used to indicate the presence or not of 12V at any point being investigated. Incidentally Wrap the base of the bulb in insulating tape to avoid accidental short circuits.

Think about what you have said !!😁 What does the camera need ? Buena Suerte, Mike

I just followed a Youtube video, Perfect, took less than an hour. It was a couple of years ago so I don't remember the order but one thing I did find. Make sure the horn pressure is the same on the wheel you are fitting.

Gor blimey, you're a kid I'm 73, My CTH940, I think, it is silver grey now. My mates TC europa is in the background and sat on my bonnet was a friend who always came to "Brands H" with me

Had a few MK2s 3.4s, 3.8s and a 3.8 XKE The 3.4 was the first car I had that topped a ton with ease. Cost me 25 quid. When they broke you got the scrappie to take it away, giving you a tenner towards the next one. I sold the rust free XKE for 180 quid because a kid cracked the windscreen in Italy.

I use the icarsoft 930 and it has always cleared the dtcs, with 2 exceptions, from memory 3087 and an a/c Blower prob which doesn't exist. BTW. I soldered the battery connector cables, got rid of a lot of wierdos, after 2 years stil doin fine. Touch wood, unfortunately not in the Cat!!! Wood that is!!!!

Check the cicuit diagram for a connector/s carrying the relevant controls/signals then check that it is not loose, Disconnect the battery, clean the contacts on both sides with a professional spray contact cleaner then insert and remove connector a few times. Recon the battery, follow the procedure and keep your fingers crossed! Good luck. Mike

I finally got around to bleeding the brakes this morning. Furthest wheel took the longest time and produced a hard pedal. First Red fluid came thru, then dark brown down to a light amber colour. The other three just dark brown and then light amber. It took nearly 1 litre of brake fluid. Brakes are hard, ABS is OK and with engine off the pedal stays high under pressure. Engine on and hard pressure on the pedal and it goes to the floor in about a minute! When I got it about 3 yrs ago it was like this. I guess I will keep my eyes open for a cheap master cylinder. Crazy there is no repair kit!

Cheers John, Keep Prowling! Regs. Mike

Welcome to the Pride, (Is it a Pride of Jaguars or just Lions? What the heck. Check out the VIN,

Thanks for the reply. I had a look at the fluid which is quite dark, not a good sign! I have a little gadget for checking soil dampness, after careful cleaning I tried it but it did not register anything. I tried a DVM on 20 MOhm and got a reading between 1.5 and 2,5 MOhm so I reckon there is definitely water in it. Checking on used engine oil produced no reading >20 MOhm ! Tap water (From local Desal plant) provided readings between 1 and 6 MOhm. Dot 4 is on the shopping list. BRs and fingers crossed , Mike

A couple of months ago I changed the front brake pads. After a day or two they had bedded in all OK. a few weeks ago I noticed that they had become a bit spongy and travel had increased, A quick pump stiffens them up. With engine running I can slowly floor the pedal, without the Engine running the pedal is rock hard and does not go down. One thing I notice that has changed is when I apply the park brake the pedal used to push up against my foot, now this does not happen. Fluid level is OK, car brakes in a straight line and ABS is working. Normally pedal going to the floor means master cylinder but it is solid, however there is more pedal travel than before. I do not know when the brake fluid was changed but I would think it was at least 5 years ago from the receipts that I have with the car. cheers Mike

Here is the complete A/C trouble shooting guide from Karl. https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s-type-s-type-r-supercharged-v8-x200-15/epic-troubleshooting-guide-climate-control-how-185002/