mrmike

I have a 2005 2.7D S-Type. I am looking for some front suspension ball joint rubber boots. I seem to remember someone talking about a Bulgarian company that had a good range at good prices Unfortunately buying anything from the UK at the moment is a disaster so EU suppliers are a must. If someone has already changed these they will know the size too. I have been getting a bit of a rumble from the front and after a driving a few kms, when going around around roundabouts I get a scraping noise. Appears to be the front hub bearings so While I change these I will do the brake pads and the perished lower ball joint boots too. Measurements externally with boot in place 23mm and 38mm so they are probably 20 mm and 35mm internally. I have a few others to replace too at the rear end, here (Spain), they don't fail you on the MOT if there is no play in the joint. Any suggestions?

Looks Like the Castrol Magnatec Stop Start A5 5w30 is the best, I have used Edge and usually change the oil and filter every 10-12K Kms, I've done 8K kms on the Castrol Edge now and have a 3K Kms trip to do. When I get back I will change it ready for the Summer. Oil level constant at about 3/4 on stick. This is a non DPF car. Thanks for the info. M

What is the best oil for 2.7D non DPF, I have been using Castrol Edge 05-30 but Norauto seems to think it is not right? They reckon an oil for Toyota is best!

I ordered the new DCC valve which came with the mount so I could see how it was mounted, I have a pair of bent pliers fairly thin nosed ideal in this case for removing the clamps or at least sliding them along. Easy job but it did not solve my problem. The old DCC was working fine as was the ACCU. I followed Karls guide on the US site and was in contact with him for some weeks on the site. I did many tests with clamped tubes, measured thermistors, Strobed A/C compressor clutch etc. Finally I was left with 2 possibilities The Evaporator unit (Dashboard out job) or the A/C Compressor itself. I went to an A/C specialist Co and their opinion was that the Compressor was tired. I changed the A/C Compressor with a S/H unit, gas recharge and Voila cold air! It was a bast^&* job , (Local indies did not want to know) It took me the best part of 3 days half of that time was due to the hose clips and their positions. The manual is wrong in quite a few instances, in sequence and missing info altogether. The Txn oil heat exchanger removal and refitting is a nightmare. The Diesel is completely different to all the other models and advice from Petrol owners that have done the job is completely different as regards to the removal and refitting of the Compressor itself. I still have a problem with the ACCU, On cool, one side is 5deg warmer than the setting, The M/S control to the switching FET is incorrect, the thermistor is OK and the components appear ok too, A glitch in the processor I presume, Anyway just setting it cooler compensates not that Her indoors notices as it is usually on full blast here in the summer. BTW Karl's Guide really is the max for faultfinding the S-Type A/C system, It is virtually bullet proof and Karl is very forthcoming with advice etc. I did the job last spring (2021) after a hot summer with virtually no cooling A/C. Our saga should be on the .com site during the summer of 2020. MM

I had probs with the parkbrake on mine along with a couple of minor glitches. It needed a new battery after a couple of weeks. That cured some of the problems but the parking brake played up every few days. Turning the ignition off and locking the car then unlocking was a temporary fix. I remove the negative cable from the battery/car, soldered the cable in the terminal, Cleaned the contact and thread on the bodywork and refitted cable. After a year I have had no more problems with the brake or the other glitches. The battery voltage is very important on these cars to keep them purring. MM

Thats right! (Fan)

2005 S-Type cooling fan runs at max revs and continues after switch off even with cold engine. Before you condemn the controller / Motor check the connector oxidisation especially the ones connecting the White/Blue wires (Control PWM system) Personal experience. Good luck Mike

Got it refilled with gas and oil today, It is now a "COOL" Car.

Only way to get OEM parts is go to jag. I bought a Merc timing chain from a big European car parts chain (No Pun intended) It was from the same manufacturer as the OEM part but was not the same quality. Some OEM parts can be bought from Citroen or Peugeot (C6 and 607) and cost 50% of the jag, check out engines on the web. I got parts for changing injectors from the local (1km) Citroen main dealer, very quick. My nearest Jag/landrover dealer is 40K from me and parts take a day or 2. The local Fordie is a real rip off merchant. A mate of mine took his car in for repair, over 500 Euros, he showed me the bill, there was 29,99 Euros for cleaning the windscreen!!!

Having done this, I do not recommend anyone to try it unless you have a full lift. Apart from patience you will also need a full set of tube clip removal tools. Small hands and more patience. Even the plastic block under the heat exchanger was a real ba%^&* to install with the heat exchanger. After 2 hours of fiddling I cut off one corner of the plastic and did not use the 2 bolts. I used wide Tie Wraps to hold it all in place as I will be replacing it any way. You should try and con an Indie, just show him a few pages from 2662 to 2667 and say I would do it myself but a few things have come up......................... Credit to Jaguar the plastic bits seem very strong, only problem left is the cover of the air filter being very difficult to fit correctly. I have some pics if anyone is interested.

Does the car have the auto leveling feature? If it does there is no problem! I presume your headlight units are OEM Hellas. The beam height is automatically adjusted according to the load on the car and its relative position to the road in order to not dazzle oncoming traffic. This information is obtained from sensors on the front and read suspension, processed and sent to the headlight position motors.

There is a very comprehensive fault finding procedure on the US Jag Forum, Follow it and you will have no doubts about the cause. Well almost! Only 2 faults remaining are Compressor and or Condenser, Hope for the first because the 2nd means you scrap the car unless you are a real nutter!

Here in Spain the Diesels command higher prices.

Is the brake still on or released?

When I fitted the S/H injector I was getting around the low 9s/100km but it got better after a few weeks. I have the Icarsoft analyser. I can see the injectors and there is a reading (Offset) which refers to the time that the injectors open. Basically readings of 800 to 1100 are ok so they say. Now apart from cyl6 they are all about 1000 Motorway driving is usually in cruise at 120km/h, the legal limit here. We are very happy with the fuel consumption, much better than our X3 in all respects.

OK Today I finally removed the A/C Compressor. The Manual is "WRONG" in many ways as are the pictures. Do not listen to those that say the Compressor comes out below, Believe me unless it is shrunk by some miraculous Jaguar atomic shrinker to a quarter of its normal size, it "CANNOT" be removed from below. It comes out towards the radiator and curves left and upwards. One very important part of the manual refers to removing the lower bolts first. This makes it much easier, Foolish old git I tried the other way first. Due to not possessing a vehicle lift it was impossible to remove the semi rigid tube from the turbo. this means finding another way to remove the top right bolt, imagination? Due to clearance issues with the A/C piping it was decided to shorten the bottom right bolt by 8mm to avoid fouling the A/C piping. The actual removal and replacement of the compressor took about 5 hours due to access and using a 10mm spanner one flat at a time plus serious swelling to one hand. I understand now why it is said that NO mechanic will thank you for letting him due this job. 3 turned me down saying it was too complicated. Some of the !Removed! Ford/jag tube clips had to be carefully cut off with a Dremel because there was no way to get to the ends. Incidentally when the gas was removed also the oil was removed, so the old compressor was empty. Tomorrow- reinstall Heat exchanger, connect all rubber tubes install Fan and shroud and refill with coolant. If there is time go and get it regassed and loaded with oil. Maybe just maybe, I will have some cold air. Did the mod on the replacement compressor for low rev working.

check your air filter, check your injectors. my 2.7 would only start on the 2nd try but returned 4.7 t0 5.1 l/100km on motorway cruising. I changed one injector which was very lean (600) now it starts first time but returns 5.1 t0 6.1 L/100km on motorway. I still have a rich injector 1200 on No 6 cyl so I will get another injector hopefully it will be a bit better. Around town and a bit mixed locally consumption is 8.0 to 8.5l/100Km

I should have added that I will not refit it with the bolts but with tie raps until I complete the mod.

I intend to eliminate this heat exchanger after the summer with a separate radiator given that these HEs are somewhat unreliable.

Having spent half of my time removing the rubber tube clamps in the most awkward positions I have come to the Auto box Heat exchanger. Getting the auto box heat exchanger out is a really good one, first without the jag clamp tool it is a nightmare but I eventually removed the top hose clamp. Great I thought now we are getting somewhere, Wrong It doesn't come out! Why because there is a piece of !Removed! plastic underneath it. What isn't mentioned (Traitors) is that the plastic mount is held by 2 recessed 13mm bolts under the heat exchanger. Getting at them is a real battle with the limited movement of the heat exchanger. Removal of this took 6 hours in all not counting soaking overnight of the rubber pipe to the overhead plastic "T" piece. After around 12 hours I am ready to Start on the A/C compressor itself. Interestingly the transmission fluid was dark red, sucks of Dexron or some other cheapo fluid that is NOT to be used on the ZF 6 speed auto box. More Tomorrow hopefully with a new compressor fitted.

OK started today, Having a problem removing the header tank, the plastic connector pipe doesn't seem to want to come off. soaked it in oil when it got too hot here to work on it, hopefully tomorrow I can free it up. The coolant level connector had been removed and insulated??? The A/C compressor is just visible now but how I will get it out is anyone's guess. Top view is blocked by the Steering pump. Tomorrow Am back on it.

The insulation material fitted under the engine top cover has been removed as it had completely disintegrated. I don't seem to be able to get a single sheet of sound insulating foam, only 10 pieces from Amazon.es at 30 Euros, Does anyone know where I can get single pieces 50x50x2cms here in spain? They should have 20dB attenuation, not sure about sound measurements, could be a 4/5th reduction or 99%..............

Has anyone done this, it is part of the procedure for the compressor replacement, It looks like a special tool is required to remove the coolant hose? Jag part no 303-397 (24-003 Hasn't anyone done an A/C compressor replacement on this site?

Find someone who has an endoscope to find the leak or that uses an additive to see the leak with UV. Ask around for an Honest Indie. I have a 2.7D and as someone else stated, only the heater matrix leaking could be uneconomical. I reckon they are trying to rip you off! Good Luck! Remember prices are on the Up!, You and others scrap theirs, we have more spares and the cars get rarer!!!!!