Coolcity

I've actually learned a lot since I posted that previous post. I've had a Restricted Performance (RP) problem for the past couple of years when accelerating over 3000 rpm or so, and various garages (including the DPF guy who unfortunately caused more issues than he solved), have been unable to resolve it. The first thing to understand, though it took me a while to find this out, is that the car auto-regenerates the DPF every so often BUT IF YOU HAVE A FAULT OF SOME KIND IT WON'T REGENERATE. So if you're getting the DPF Full amber warning regularly it probably means you have a problem somewhere and it is NOT the DPF that's actually the fault, it's just not regenerating because of the fault. It is very important to understand this because if you don't find the fault you will keep getting the DPF Full warning because it's filling op over time and not regenerating. Very long story but in short I've done/found various things which have made some difference. Here are the main ones: 1. I cleaned the MAP sensor, very easy job, it sits on top of the throttle body which sits on top of the engine. That was gunged up and made a huge difference in performance and stopped the amber DPF light coming on so often. 2. One garage found that the two MAF sensors had been fitted the wrong way around, i.e, sensor A into socket B and vice versa. Correcting that also made a difference and stopped the RP problem to a point, except that it now kicks in at lower revs and often on decelerating; before it was only when accelerating. 3. I changed the actuator on the second turbo, I'm told it's a common fault that this sticks and causes the RP issue, but it made no difference on mine and the original one seemed OK when removed. 4. I recently removed and cleaned the throttle body and found the flap inside it was sticking. I cleaned and sanded it down a little, now it seems fine. However I've recently seen a Jag specialist over the RP issue and they say there's a boost leak on the throttle body so maybe I haven't fitted it back correctly. 5. I noticed the actuator arm on the FIRST turbo was shaking/vibrating, as if loose, when the engine was idling (see attached video). If you have the 3.0d engine you can just see this down the left side of the engine (the right side if you're looking under the bonnet from the front of the car; i.e. the nearside). It isn't actually loose, so there is obviously some issue there and I believe this may well be the cause of the RP problem (that and the boost leak on the throttle body), and I think if I get those fixed it might finally cure the problem.

I'll try that on mine. It's slightly odd on mine, I got a low battery notification on the dash and the boot wouldn't open. I changed the battery and everything worked fine, except the boot wouldn't open manually (using the button on the boot) or with the key fob, but opened with the button on the dash. Seemed to be when the car was locked. I changed the key fob battery but the boot still won't open with the boot lid button, but now opens with the key fob. Then a couple of days later I got a low battery warning again. I changed it again yesterday and it seems OK, but now the boot won't open with the boot lid button OR with the key fob again. Always opens from the dash button though.

This is weird. The saga continues. I continue to have the same problems, that being the car goes into RP mode sometimes when I go over 3000 or so rpm, however we have discovered that the DPF is filling up quickly, and even a forged regen won't drop the soot level below 20 grams. The fault codes only appear when it goes into RP, those being P22D2 - Turbocharger turbine inlet valve stuck open, and P22CF - turbocharger turbine inlet valve control circuit Open. So it points to a stuck actuator on the 2nd turbo that is stuck open and blocking up the DPF, but here's the thing - I've now had the actuator replaced, but the problem is still there. I was advised that there was no fault found with the original actuator and that the turbo is clean and in good condition, with no oil leaks anywhere. EGR, injectors, pipes, EVERYTHING possible has been checked and nobody can find anything wrong. Not sure where to go from here as we're completely stumped. DPF filling up and RP problem aside, the car drives beautifully. Diagnostic readings are not showing up any leaks, fuel isn't too rich or too lean, even the garage have no idea what to look for next. Anybody else had this - in particular, the DPF soot level not dropping below 20g even on a forced regen?

Absolutely spot on that mate, job done! One interesting point, I had a look at the user manual and it doesn't even mention the puddle lights at all.

Ah, that's interesting. I didn't know about that, I'll give it a try. If nothing else it would explain why the interior lights don't come on when I open the doors.

No, that WAS my first port of call. I wouldn't ask without checking something as obvious first. In fact having looked a little further, neither puddle light is working and the fault is a little odd. When I unlock the car the courtesy lights don't come on. With the lighter evenings at the moment I hadn't noticed, in fact it was my wife that noticed the blue glow had gone - that's because the footwell lights didn't come on; I've changed those to blue LEDs to match the ambient lighting. So when I open the car from locked, none of the courtesy lights (puddle and footwell lights included) come on at all, but I can switch them on manually - but only the inside lights come on, not the puddle lights. The interior lights will continue to come on when I open the car door, and go off when I close it, but if I lock the car then open it again, they don't come on at all and I have to switch them on manually again. I then tested several bulbs and tried some of them in the puddle lamps but they don't come on at all, but I don't know if they're supposed to come on only in the dark or all the time, whenever the courtesy lights come on. That aside, I suspect the reason they're not working is the same reason the interior lights are not coming on when I unlock and open the car. I'll take the centre console light fitting off tomorrow and see of there's anything obvious, might just want a clean inside.

No, but it sounds like a relatively simple issue to fix. First of all though, I would suggest that you at least correct the title error. The more details you put in the title, the more likely you are to get a response.

I cheated and bought this for my XF, more because my daughter wasn't happy reversing: AUTO-VOX W7PRO Digital Wireless Reversing Camera Support 2 Cameras Front and Rear or Side Reverse Camera HD Image with Night Vision Stable Signal Rear View Camera IP68 Waterproof Backup Camera: Amazon.co.uk: Electronics & Photo It was relatively easy to install, just a matter of connecting the camera to the reverse light feed to trigger it, although getting the cable through the boot lid to the side panel was a bit fiddly. The display screen just plugs into the cig lighter socket and communicates with the camera wirelessly. To be honest I still found it hard to get used to, to judge how close I was on the couple of occasions that I've tried it, and I still find it easier just to use the parking sensors, which tell me when I'm within a couple of inches of whatever is behind me, so I haven't really used it since. Should be interesting to see how my daughter finds it as she's not driven it since I fitted it.

Yes, I'm not going to worry about it any more while it's running well unless the issue worsens. Could just be an oversensitive sensor or something.

Are you sure it's a fault? I found I got the double beep quite often and thought mine was faulty, then realised that if I wait a couple of seconds before locking the car it works perfectly well every time.

I didn't post this (may have done elsewhere), but I got the DPF Full problem back a couple of months ago. The garage basically said I wasn't driving it fast enough and it was clogging up, I told them that was boleaux. For one thing I'd only done around 1200 miles since the full removal and clean, and it happened right at the end of a 120 mile motorway run and cleared after a 40 miles run- but came back on a couple of days later and an 80 mile run wouldn't clear it. Anyway it was cleaned out again, though the garage said it wasn't that bad (of course not!), but noticably it was smoother and I had more power this time. Everything was fine until a couple of weeks ago when it returned, again just a few miles from 120 mile motorway trip. What happened was that at around 65mph, the prat in the white van in front of me in the 3rd lane finally pulled over. After being stuck behind him for at least 10 minutes and as many miles. So before he had the chance to pull back out I booted it - and immediately got the Restricted Performance thing back again. So a couple of days later early in the morning I took it round the country lanes, put it in sport/race (dynamic) mode and hammered it for a good 90 minutes in manual, mostly in 2nd/3rd gear - and guess what, nothing I did could reproduce the problem. What the hell is going on? I boot it once on the motorway and get the RP warning, I drive it like a maniac for at least 90 minutes and it's as sweet as a nut. The only thing that I have learned from all this is that when it does happen, it seems to happen when I boot it from around 60-70mph, but not while driving at varying speeds, even flat out in low gear. Apart from this occasional glitch it seems perfectly fine.

I didn't even know you could set the owner's name, but then mine is an earlier model.

One of my puddle lights - the light beneath the wing mirror - isn't working. The problem is I can't test it because it only comes on when it's dark (or it would if it was working, obviously), and I can't find the sensor that ensures it does that. I've covered the windscreen from the outside with a sun screen thing that I have to block out the light, assuming it was one of the sensors near the rear view mirror but to no avail. Anybody got any idea? Thanks.

That reminds me, I must get around to installing the TPMS on the Jag. If the missus can remember where she put the bits that go on the tyres, that is. On the fence regarding run flats, most reviews suggest that they ruin the ride and its probably already slightly compromised as mine has 19" wheels. Tempted though given the price of a spare + tools, although I won't need new tyres for some time yet. I guess I'll wait and see how much this latest damn DPF issue costs to put right first.

I'm still looking for one at a reasonable price. Mine are 19" wheels and the car came without the spare or any tools, just a bottle of gunk to inflate the tyres but no pump. I'm torn between forking out for the spare wheel and tools (inc. jack) required, or whether to just go with run flats next time I change the tyres as somebody recommended on another thread. I've heard several times that run flats ruin the ride though.