Coolcity

I've actually learned a lot since I posted that previous post. I've had a Restricted Performance (RP) problem for the past couple of years when accelerating over 3000 rpm or so, and various garages (including the DPF guy who unfortunately caused more issues than he solved), have been unable to resolve it. The first thing to understand, though it took me a while to find this out, is that the car auto-regenerates the DPF every so often BUT IF YOU HAVE A FAULT OF SOME KIND IT WON'T REGENERATE. So if you're getting the DPF Full amber warning regularly it probably means you have a problem somewhere and it is NOT the DPF that's actually the fault, it's just not regenerating because of the fault. It is very important to understand this because if you don't find the fault you will keep getting the DPF Full warning because it's filling op over time and not regenerating. Very long story but in short I've done/found various things which have made some difference. Here are the main ones: 1. I cleaned the MAP sensor, very easy job, it sits on top of the throttle body which sits on top of the engine. That was gunged up and made a huge difference in performance and stopped the amber DPF light coming on so often. 2. One garage found that the two MAF sensors had been fitted the wrong way around, i.e, sensor A into socket B and vice versa. Correcting that also made a difference and stopped the RP problem to a point, except that it now kicks in at lower revs and often on decelerating; before it was only when accelerating. 3. I changed the actuator on the second turbo, I'm told it's a common fault that this sticks and causes the RP issue, but it made no difference on mine and the original one seemed OK when removed. 4. I recently removed and cleaned the throttle body and found the flap inside it was sticking. I cleaned and sanded it down a little, now it seems fine. However I've recently seen a Jag specialist over the RP issue and they say there's a boost leak on the throttle body so maybe I haven't fitted it back correctly. 5. I noticed the actuator arm on the FIRST turbo was shaking/vibrating, as if loose, when the engine was idling (see attached video). If you have the 3.0d engine you can just see this down the left side of the engine (the right side if you're looking under the bonnet from the front of the car; i.e. the nearside). It isn't actually loose, so there is obviously some issue there and I believe this may well be the cause of the RP problem (that and the boost leak on the throttle body), and I think if I get those fixed it might finally cure the problem.

I'll try that on mine. It's slightly odd on mine, I got a low battery notification on the dash and the boot wouldn't open. I changed the battery and everything worked fine, except the boot wouldn't open manually (using the button on the boot) or with the key fob, but opened with the button on the dash. Seemed to be when the car was locked. I changed the key fob battery but the boot still won't open with the boot lid button, but now opens with the key fob. Then a couple of days later I got a low battery warning again. I changed it again yesterday and it seems OK, but now the boot won't open with the boot lid button OR with the key fob again. Always opens from the dash button though.

This is weird. The saga continues. I continue to have the same problems, that being the car goes into RP mode sometimes when I go over 3000 or so rpm, however we have discovered that the DPF is filling up quickly, and even a forged regen won't drop the soot level below 20 grams. The fault codes only appear when it goes into RP, those being P22D2 - Turbocharger turbine inlet valve stuck open, and P22CF - turbocharger turbine inlet valve control circuit Open. So it points to a stuck actuator on the 2nd turbo that is stuck open and blocking up the DPF, but here's the thing - I've now had the actuator replaced, but the problem is still there. I was advised that there was no fault found with the original actuator and that the turbo is clean and in good condition, with no oil leaks anywhere. EGR, injectors, pipes, EVERYTHING possible has been checked and nobody can find anything wrong. Not sure where to go from here as we're completely stumped. DPF filling up and RP problem aside, the car drives beautifully. Diagnostic readings are not showing up any leaks, fuel isn't too rich or too lean, even the garage have no idea what to look for next. Anybody else had this - in particular, the DPF soot level not dropping below 20g even on a forced regen?

Absolutely spot on that mate, job done! One interesting point, I had a look at the user manual and it doesn't even mention the puddle lights at all.

Ah, that's interesting. I didn't know about that, I'll give it a try. If nothing else it would explain why the interior lights don't come on when I open the doors.

No, that WAS my first port of call. I wouldn't ask without checking something as obvious first. In fact having looked a little further, neither puddle light is working and the fault is a little odd. When I unlock the car the courtesy lights don't come on. With the lighter evenings at the moment I hadn't noticed, in fact it was my wife that noticed the blue glow had gone - that's because the footwell lights didn't come on; I've changed those to blue LEDs to match the ambient lighting. So when I open the car from locked, none of the courtesy lights (puddle and footwell lights included) come on at all, but I can switch them on manually - but only the inside lights come on, not the puddle lights. The interior lights will continue to come on when I open the car door, and go off when I close it, but if I lock the car then open it again, they don't come on at all and I have to switch them on manually again. I then tested several bulbs and tried some of them in the puddle lamps but they don't come on at all, but I don't know if they're supposed to come on only in the dark or all the time, whenever the courtesy lights come on. That aside, I suspect the reason they're not working is the same reason the interior lights are not coming on when I unlock and open the car. I'll take the centre console light fitting off tomorrow and see of there's anything obvious, might just want a clean inside.

No, but it sounds like a relatively simple issue to fix. First of all though, I would suggest that you at least correct the title error. The more details you put in the title, the more likely you are to get a response.

I cheated and bought this for my XF, more because my daughter wasn't happy reversing: AUTO-VOX W7PRO Digital Wireless Reversing Camera Support 2 Cameras Front and Rear or Side Reverse Camera HD Image with Night Vision Stable Signal Rear View Camera IP68 Waterproof Backup Camera: Amazon.co.uk: Electronics & Photo It was relatively easy to install, just a matter of connecting the camera to the reverse light feed to trigger it, although getting the cable through the boot lid to the side panel was a bit fiddly. The display screen just plugs into the cig lighter socket and communicates with the camera wirelessly. To be honest I still found it hard to get used to, to judge how close I was on the couple of occasions that I've tried it, and I still find it easier just to use the parking sensors, which tell me when I'm within a couple of inches of whatever is behind me, so I haven't really used it since. Should be interesting to see how my daughter finds it as she's not driven it since I fitted it.

Yes, I'm not going to worry about it any more while it's running well unless the issue worsens. Could just be an oversensitive sensor or something.

Are you sure it's a fault? I found I got the double beep quite often and thought mine was faulty, then realised that if I wait a couple of seconds before locking the car it works perfectly well every time.

I didn't post this (may have done elsewhere), but I got the DPF Full problem back a couple of months ago. The garage basically said I wasn't driving it fast enough and it was clogging up, I told them that was boleaux. For one thing I'd only done around 1200 miles since the full removal and clean, and it happened right at the end of a 120 mile motorway run and cleared after a 40 miles run- but came back on a couple of days later and an 80 mile run wouldn't clear it. Anyway it was cleaned out again, though the garage said it wasn't that bad (of course not!), but noticably it was smoother and I had more power this time. Everything was fine until a couple of weeks ago when it returned, again just a few miles from 120 mile motorway trip. What happened was that at around 65mph, the prat in the white van in front of me in the 3rd lane finally pulled over. After being stuck behind him for at least 10 minutes and as many miles. So before he had the chance to pull back out I booted it - and immediately got the Restricted Performance thing back again. So a couple of days later early in the morning I took it round the country lanes, put it in sport/race (dynamic) mode and hammered it for a good 90 minutes in manual, mostly in 2nd/3rd gear - and guess what, nothing I did could reproduce the problem. What the hell is going on? I boot it once on the motorway and get the RP warning, I drive it like a maniac for at least 90 minutes and it's as sweet as a nut. The only thing that I have learned from all this is that when it does happen, it seems to happen when I boot it from around 60-70mph, but not while driving at varying speeds, even flat out in low gear. Apart from this occasional glitch it seems perfectly fine.

I didn't even know you could set the owner's name, but then mine is an earlier model.

One of my puddle lights - the light beneath the wing mirror - isn't working. The problem is I can't test it because it only comes on when it's dark (or it would if it was working, obviously), and I can't find the sensor that ensures it does that. I've covered the windscreen from the outside with a sun screen thing that I have to block out the light, assuming it was one of the sensors near the rear view mirror but to no avail. Anybody got any idea? Thanks.

That reminds me, I must get around to installing the TPMS on the Jag. If the missus can remember where she put the bits that go on the tyres, that is. On the fence regarding run flats, most reviews suggest that they ruin the ride and its probably already slightly compromised as mine has 19" wheels. Tempted though given the price of a spare + tools, although I won't need new tyres for some time yet. I guess I'll wait and see how much this latest damn DPF issue costs to put right first.

I'm still looking for one at a reasonable price. Mine are 19" wheels and the car came without the spare or any tools, just a bottle of gunk to inflate the tyres but no pump. I'm torn between forking out for the spare wheel and tools (inc. jack) required, or whether to just go with run flats next time I change the tyres as somebody recommended on another thread. I've heard several times that run flats ruin the ride though.

I found something VERY interesting tonight. In the Workshop Manual - the one the dealers use, not the Owner's Guide (OG) - the instructions for doing the DPF regeneration after the amber warning are pretty much the same, word for word in fact, as they are in the OG. But there's also an extra instruction. The manual advised that you drive for a further 10 minutes to ensure the DPF is properly cleaned. That definitely does NOT appear in the OG. Note this was for the 3.0d, MY2010-2013 XF. There's also a section that tells you that "active regen occurs automatically every 450 miles (adjusted according to driving style)", but a few pages and a couple of years later that was rewritten to read "every 250 miles" .

Welcome... hint of jealousy as I wanted the Portfolio model. I don't think I'm missing too much though except the reverse cameras.

Interesting reading through this again, especially the prices being quoted. I did finish up with a "Restricted Performance" issue last October, which was deemed to be a blocked DPF, and got it removed and cleaned with a 12 month warranty for under £200 if I remember the price correctly. I've also few found out that you can buy a fault code reader for around £50, which will tell you, to a point, what problems you're having. The one I got, the Icarsoft v2, also allows you to manually regenerate the DPF. It cost me around £100. However, I'm really interested in one of the Bluetooth modules that were mentioned earlier, if they can be programed to show the soot levels. These ELN327 gadgets can be purchased for under a fiver on ebay, even the wireless Bluetooth ones, just plug in and connect to your mobile phone. Sounds like a "must have" to me, especially if you're experiencing DPF problems as I am. I'm not sure if they show the soot levels or if that has to be programed into them separately but I'm going to take a closer look at the various listings on ebay.

Quick update. I've just done a diag using the iCarsoft LR v2 and the only fault code I got was P2458 - DPF Regeneration Duration. But it doesn't give any figures on what that duration is. There are no other codes and no other symptoms, the car appears to run as normal and the oil level hasn't changed, it's at around 75%. I decided to set it up for a forced regen to get the soot figure, which makes interesting reading. It measured at 3329.08 grams. That's a huge figure given that the system won't do a forced regen if the level is over 60 grams. Obviously there's a vast difference between 3329 and 60 grams and that high a level would surely cause serious problems? Does this suggest a faulty sensor or something of that nature? Bearing in mind I've only done around 2500 miles in the 7-8 months since the DPF was removed and cleaned, around 20-25% of that would have been town driving, the rest either motorway or fast A-road with most of that being in the past few months (we haven't really been anywhere between November-March as the wife was recovering from an op). Makes no sense at all to me that the DPF would be blocked given the overall type of use over the past few months, especially recent months. One other slight oddity. I did the same scan last week and have only driven 2 miles since. I checked the "Distance to next service", just out of curiosity, and last week it read 7578Km. This week it reads 3541Km.

Great news! Let's hope all is present and correct when you get it. Nothing new though, I once ordered a Kawasaki motorcycle and when it finally arrived they hadn't even got the colour right. Most annoying was the fact that there was only a choice of 2 colours, so it shouldn't have been that much of a job to distinguish between red and silver, but they still managed to get it wrong! That was 44 years ago.

The "just in time" system is just fine until something goes wrong, then it all falls apart. It's the same with many things these days, everything is fine tuned too work just right, but as soon as there's a break in the chain it all goes wrong. We rely on Royal Mail for outgoing deliveries and they use a system to calculate what staff, vehicles etc. they'll need according to what mail they have going through the system at any given time. But have you ever noticed after a bank holiday a lot of mail is a few days late? This is because they get a backlog of mail to collect over a bank holiday weekend then on the first day back (after Easter for example), they suddenly have 4 days' mail to process instead of one so they're effectively then 3 days behind. Because it takes several days to clear this it can have a knock-on effect for several days. I spend much of my time having to explain this time and time again to customers complaining about late deliveries after a holiday period. Sorry about the waffle, just explaining how it happens. People go back to work and expect everything to carry on as normal but when there's any sort of disruption it's the knock-on effect that creates the problems, and with the "just in time" systems it can be extremely disruptive.

I recently got the amber "DPF Full" warning on the dash. I thought this was a bit odd at the time as a few days earlier we did a 'country lane' drive of a total of 140 miles, so not motorway speeds but pretty much non-stop quick driving apart from a break along the way. So if it was on its way to becoming full that should have cleared it. After that I probably did around 10-15 miles local stop-start driving over the next week which is about average for the week. The warning actually came on after the car had been idling for about 5 minutes as I was waiting for the missus in a car park and wanted the heaters on. Anyway, the next day we did a 45 mile motorway drive, driving back via the A roads at 40-50 mph, again quiet roads, non-stop driving, and the warning cleared. I didn't notice at what point it cleared. Similar routine followed, around 10 miles or so (in total) short trip driving around town for the next few days, and the warning came back on again. I then did another 60 mile motorway round trip at between 60-70 mph but this time the warning hasn't cleared. Anybody know why this could be happening? Last October I had the DPF filter removed and cleaned completely after a similar problem, although in that case the RED DPF full warning kept coming on when I accelerated hard, and it was noticably more sluggish to drive then than it is at the moment. I'd only had car a short time at that point but suspect it had only been used for short trips before I got it due to the low mileage, which was probably why the DPF was clogged up. But I have only done around 2500 miles since that job was done. I do a few short journeys of a mile or so maybe 3-4 times a week but do motorway runs in between of 40-50 miles or so to try to keep it clear. The car should be able to cope with that, surely? I know people with diesels who only do the school run and shopping every day who never have a problem, and the car has only done 56k. Could it be a faulty sensor or the regen system not kicking in when it should be? (I haven't noticed the burning oil smell recently that you get when the system is regenerating). Car seems to drive perfectly fine, no loss of power or anything. I do have it booked in but can't get it looked at until a week Thursday.

Yes, I'll make further enquires although I have now seen a couple of 19" ones for sale. A bit more than I want to pay ideally and would prefer it to come with the tools. All I have is a bottle of glue/sealant, they even took the compressor to inflate it but I wouldn't be keen on using that anyway. As they're going on ebay for £160 upwards, it's not really surprising. Worth noting I've never seen a 20" one.

Old post I know, but I'm sure you will still be able to tell you have a puncture with a run-flat. Once it's deflated it's bound to affect the handling, surely? Alternatively you can buy a DIY TPMS for around £25 or less. I've got one, and it's pretty accurate too although I never got around to fitting it on the XF. The display is solar powered and sticks to the windscreen (or dash), and the tyre monitors simply replace the valve caps on the tyre. It's wireless so there's no wiring involved. This is similar to the one I have and I've been impressed with it, better than I expected it to be. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/133963859051

Yes, reason I'm asking is I read an article some time ago saying its perfectly fine as long as its temporary, and is the reason you're only supposed to use those temporary spare wheels as a "Get me home" job for no more than 20 or so miles. I forget where I read it and I know there's a lot of nonsense on the Internet, but I'm sure it was on a more respected site, either the RAC or a tyre manufacturers site, something like that. I've also spoken to a Jag authorised repair centre since I posted this, and they said Jag don't do a 19" temp spare. Isn't it possible that an 18" wheel could have a tyre with a deeper tyrewall to make up the difference? Not my specialist subject obviously.