Coolcity

Yep, mine's the 3.0d 240bhp

Thanks, that's good information and explains why it appears to be designed to fully item but doesn't. At least its not like the Ford electric ones. As I opened my boot in the supermarket car park the other day, a woman who had parked next to me was looking very smug as she opened hers by waiving her foot underneath the car. I was in my car and driving away while she was still waiting for her tailgate to fully open. 😂

Just found this as I encountered the amber Park Brake Fault light tonight, oddly this came on as I was parking up after a short 8 mile motorway journey. I turned the car off then on again after 10 seconds and the fault cleared. Drove the car home an hour later and it was fine. The only issue I've had with the brakes is they grab slightly as the car comes to a stop when braking, which I initially put down to running them in (full disc and pad change all round was done when I got the car 3 months ago), but I've done over 1500 miles since so they should be run in now. It's this anything to worry about?

It isn't, it's only when I accelerate hard but I still need to know what it is and sort it before it turns into something worse. I'm no expert but in your case I would agree with what Big John said, it certainly doesn't sound as though the turbo had gone completely (you'd know if it had, I would have thought) and it sounds more like a minor part failure to me. I understand your point, hence the reason you were offered the 50% deal. The problem manufacturers have is if they cover one part after a relatively short period of time they would, in theory, be expected to do the same with every part for every customer. Ultimately, everything we buy would be much more expensive as a result to cover these failures. I don't think there's any right answer that fits all scenarios.

Thanks, that's interesting. I'll get that checked too but I'm going to wait until I get the diagnostic gadget, hopefully early next week. I ran it again today, accelerated quickly right up to over 90 and ran it for a few minutes, no problem at all. Then on the way back I accelerated more aggressively and got the warning at around 4300 revs, higher and faster than when it's kicked in before. Even in RP mode it will still run up to 80, and probably on but it's obvious there's a power drop. Definitely feels like a vacuum leak or something related.

Totally agree 100%. I think insurance is one giant scam anyway - how can one insurer quote £400 and another one £2,400 for more or less the same cover? But that's as ridiculous an excuse as I've ever heard. We're all as much to blame though, too many people won't fight these things and let them get away with it. Good to hear you got the correct result in the end.

I may be wrong but isn't there an on/off setting for this on the infotainment screen menu? Mine does have the auto folding mirrors so I'm not sure.

I think it's made deliberately that way to avoid accidental presses, for example when you're cleaning it, but they didn't fully explain it to everybody. I've noticed I have a problem when trying to open it from an angle, but if you open it with your finger or thumb directly in line, as though you're sat right behind it in the passenger seat, it opens first time every time.

I've left mine in the part-open mode. It raises about a foot from the closed position, but needs a harder slam to close it. I have a habit of catching the boot opening button next to the fog light button in the car - so much so that I'm considering disabling the button - so for now I've decided it's probably not a good idea to have it opening the whole way.

Good to know, mine needs doing too.

I wondered about the 12 month thing as that's how it worked on my last car, but most previous services seem to have been done around February, and then there was another one in May by the garage I bought it from. There doesn't seem to be any obvious reason why it would come on now.

Thanks, that's helpful. I've ordered one, looks like it's worth having as it would probably cost at least that if I took it in for a diagnostic, and that should at least give me some idea of what's happening.

Oh, one other thing I've just remembered. A couple of weeks ago the "Service required" light came on. According to the paperwork it was last services around 2500 miles ago, reading 50960, back in February but that's before I got it. The previous one was an oil service at 47,600. I don't know if there's any connection with the Restricted warning.

Would this be the sort of thing I need? Seems like a reasonable price: Jaguar XF Diagnostic Scan Tool & Reset Fault Code Reader - iCarsoft LR V2.0 | eBay

Yes, I'm going to have to get a reader. I've had a quick look at the pipework round the cooler, everything looks to be in very good order, all clean and dry. Thinking about it, had that been the problem I would have expected it to occur more often, especially running around Cumbria. Checking the mileage, it's only happened 3 times in around 1000 miles. I know it's guesswork at this stage but I'm just considering possible easy to find causes at this stage until I can get it looked at properly.

Thanks, sounds like a good place to start.

Basically as the title says, when I accelerate quickly, for example when overtaking somebody, usually from about 40 mph, I get the Restricted Performance warning light come on and reduced performance. The problem I have is it's intermittent. It first happened about 6 weeks ago during what I admit was pretty aggressive overtaking. After I stopped and turned the car off, when I went back to it an hour later it was perfectly fine again. During the next 4 weeks it drove as normal, including a couple of hundred motorway miles and 3 days in the Lake District at various speeds including some fast overtakes (on dual carriageways etc.) and at times pushing it harder than I have at any time the issue has occurred. No problems at all. So it's not happening at any specific speed or engine temperature. Then last Sunday it happened again, once again when accelerating fairly quickly from about 40 to 60, and again today. Neither of the last 2 times was particularly fast or aggressive, just what I would call a normal acceleration when overtaking. On each occasion the car has warmed up for at least 10 minutes, in fact last Sunday we'd been out for the day and drove about 60 miles at various speeds before the problem occured so I'm not pushing it from cold. I tried stopping and turning off the ignition today to see if the warning cleared straight away, but it didn't. But if I leave it for a while and go back to it, it runs perfectly fine again. Anybody have any ideas?

Interesting. I'm here after searching for "Restricted performance" as I have the same warning and reduced performance, but mine is intermittent so I'll open a separate thread. Personally I wouldn't accept a failed turbo verdict unless they can provide any specific information. For me, main dealers are now nothing more than fitters, they look at a list of fault codes and are told to fit a new part according to what comes up. I had the same thing when I had a BMW, it was overheating and the main dealer told be it needed a new radiator. Having swapped that, with the fault still remaining it turned out to be nothing more than a stuck thermostat. I tried for weeks to get a refund but they insisted the stat had failed after they had changed the rad. Regarding parts failure though, any part can fail at any time, it's an unfortunate fact of life but that's why we have warranties. The problem for the manufacturer/dealer is that there's no way to know how the car is generally treated for the most part, so you're never going to get them to give you a specific lifespan for any part. Of course you would tell them it's been treated with care, but then so would someone who had hammered it.

I only get it when unlocking, not locking. I'll take more notice of what happens next time.

Yes I would agree with that. If they work on a runner that turns on a screw type ratchet thread they can wear with age, or lose a couple of teeth. They're often only made of nylon.

(Not sure if it's the same on later models or other Jags). As you may know, there are three bolts holding the rear light fitting cluster in, and as you may know, there are a couple of Youtube videos showing you how to remove the fitting. All tell you to remove the three 10mm nuts. The one on its own that's furthest away is a bit of a pain to get to if you want to remove it. But... YOU DON'T HAVE TO! That third bolt holds a clip onto the body of the car. If you undo that nut and remove all three, the clip stays attached to the light cluster. But if you ignore the third nut and leave it in place, it holds the clip onto the car. Once the two rearmost nuts have been removed, the whole light fitting slides right off the clip when you pull it (the fitting) towards you from the back of the car. Refitting it is just a matter of pushing it back in and replacing the two nuts. In other words you only need to remove the 2 nuts at the back and the whole light fitting slides out - no need to even touch the third one. Hope this helps somebody, I just replaced my reverse lights for brighter LED ones.

I get the double beep sometimes (maybe every time, I haven't really taken much notice), but no alerts or warnings. I thought it was just an indication that the system was set to 2 stage unlocking? Everything seems to work as it should.

That's great news! I'm so glad they covered it, at least it's not a four-figure bill.

Well this is how mine turned out after cleaning with the stuff above on a 12 year old car. At first I thought the same, that they were too far gone (and I'm not saying yours are not) but I didn't think they were recoverable. I was really surprised at the results - sorry, I'm not the best photographer:

I thought the Prem Lux version did, having watched a dealer video for a used version of the same model on YouTube which did have one, and didn't check before I purchased. I've been looking for a wireless one so very little wiring will be involved, but haven't managed to find one suitable so I've decided that I've managed for 40 years without one, and the alternative sensors + graphic display does the job quite well, so I've decided to stick with what I've got. The only issue for me is it gets a lot closer to the object than my previous car did before the solid beep kicks in, so I've come within a couple of mm of hitting what's behind me a few times but it's something I'll have to get used to.