Coolcity

I'm looking for one too, although not with the S badge. I've seen pedal sets for the newer models which include the foot rest, but not for the earlier versions (so I'm assuming they're not the same?)

UPDATE: According to the manual, there should be a "Pencil" icon on the Destinations screen (see screenshot attached). Use that to delete entries.

I haven't had the time to look specifically, but it should be in the user manual, i.e. the full manual (I'm sure it is for my 2009 XF). If you don't have one you can download from here: Handbook Guides | Jaguar Owners | Jaguar UK On the 09 model, from the navigation menu you have to select Stored Locations, then select Memory Points, then Delete. I'm assuming it won't be that different for later models?

If the battery has shorted out it's probably knackered, but then nothing else would work either. So It might be simply just a fuse that's blown for the radio. The handbook tells you which fuses are which, and where they are.

Depends what's wrong with the air con. If it just needs re-gassing, I've never had it done on the XF but on every other car I've had it's never cost me more than £60, but shop around as prices do vary a lot. As for glow plugs, depends on the engine but they're not particularly expensive. For the 2.2 you can get a set of Bosch for around £40-45, much less for other brands.

That's useful, thanks. I'm going to put brighter bulbs in anyway, maybe LED. for the moment the fault seems to have cleared itself. 🙄

Where's the sensor for the stop-start? On the XE it's on the battery positive terminal, you only need to unplug it to disable it completely. There's a video here on Youtube. If it's the same on the XF it's a 10 second fix. Jaguar xe auto start and stop gone forever - YouTube My car has the opposite problem, the left side interior roof light comes on randomly from time to time.

Carlube have been around for years but are better known for other lubes, screenwash etc. I've always wondered about oil, if some is much better than others or is it all the same? It has to be produced to a certain standard I would imagine. Are we just paying more for the big brand name?

Nice one. Thanks for posting, it does at least give us something else to look for if it happens to one of us.

I'm no expert but I have to agree. I just bought an 09 plate with 52k miles on it for just over £7k, Prem Lux model. Paintwork has a few scuffs and scratches but I would have thought you could get one with much lower mileage than that for the money. My advice would be don't just jump at the first one you see and keep a little back for potential repairs. The range can be a little confusing as they seem to have chopped and changed it around a bit, and I was just slightly disappointed with the Prem Lux kit, I thought it had a few things as standard that it doesn't have and I would have liked, mostly the reverse camera but a couple of other things like Xenon headlights, premium stereo (but the mid range one is pretty good but no DAB radio), cooled seats etc. so given the choice again I'd go for the top model.

I've tried the lot, I generally look for the most competitive with the right cover so I don't stick to the same one, but my impression is they're making that much money they're not interested if you go elsewhere or not. And some of the terms, e.g. you pay more if you get points on your licence. Now obviously you wouldn't expect to pay less, but surely if you do it means you're likely to be more careful in future? Just another scam to get more money out of you in my opinion.

I'm going to be absolutely blunt about this. I believe the industry is corrupt and needs strict regulation. Apart from some of the ridiculous questions they ask (what the hell does your job, if it doesn't involve using the car, or your marital status got to do with insuring your car?), there is absolutely no reason or excuse for one insurance quote to be double (and often much more) that of a similar quote. It's blatant profiteering based on nothing but the hope that people will find it too much hassle obtaining multiple quotes. I wouldn't mind so much but you're effectively paying for a piece of paper anyway. Nothing physically happens unless you have an accident, nobody has actually done anything except printed out a document and posted it to you. And most of the time they encourage you to do it online so they don't even have to do that. You're just subsidising those who do have accidents. I was recently charged a £20 admin fee when I had to update my insurance details because I changed my car. Why? I completed all the details online and nobody at Hastings had to do anything at all, so why am I being charged for completing my own form? The whole industry is just one giant scam in my opinion.

Thanks, good to know. IT's not as though I'm in the middle of a city centre or high risk area and I only do around 4k a year so I don't understand where they get the prices from. Some of the quotes I got were over £1800, so clearly a lot of companies are ripping people off and it needs tougher regulation.

Ok, it's 2 years ago but how do you get £170? I'm 60, got maximum NCB, clean licence etc. and paid Hastings more than double that for a 2002 Volvo S60 last September! And they were the cheapest I could find. The only add-on was legal cover. I know insurance companies have these rip off rules that charge you more if you're married/not married, type of job, where you live and so on but I don't get how someone can get insurance for under half the price in what I assume are similarly powered and valued cars. Incidentally I will be shopping around again come renewal time in September.

Enjoy. Only got mine 2 days ago, best car I've had in 40 years by some distance (mind you, I've had some junk) 😂

I put Good Years on my last car (Volvo S60) and they were terrific, especially in the wet, and around 25% cheaper than the Michelins I'd had previously and much quieter. I would be willing to try them again.

I thought this was worth a mention for anybody on a tight budget. National Tyres now have a new scheme where you can pay for your tyres over 4 months. Basically you pay for your first tyre by debit card, then they take payment for the remaining three once each month. I've only had a quick read but there's no interest or surcharge as far as I can see, and no credit check unless the total price is over £1000. The only caveat seems to be that you have to book online in advance. I'm going to look at it in more depth as the XF I just bought comes with crap Joyride RX6 tyres, which by all accounts are said to be poor in the wet especially.

Just found this while looking for a threads on tyres. I made the same mistake, briefly checked the tread on the tyres (they look almost new) but didn't check the brand - they're Joyride RX6's and nobody seems to rate them from the reviews I've read. I've never even heard of them. I feel the same way, I'd rather spend the extra for peace of mind. As for the lights, I've noticed the left side interior light had come on a couple of times, goes off when I touch it but need to keep an eye on it to make sure it's not coming on when the car is locked and draining the battery. I only noticed it when I was driving last night after dark.

I bought this one in the end. Added it to my watch list and the seller sent be a 5% discount, so it worked out at £44.41. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/353226405081 Then found it cheaper. 🙄

That's what I meant. It's a matter of finding the right spec that seems to be the issue. I normally keep a 4-5L can in for when I need it, but using Castrol as an example, I wasn't able to find the recommended C1 type. Having contacted them I now know it's because they don't do a retail size larger than 1L, so I've just been researching who does and asking which one I need to buy which is the correct spec. For example, ask around and you'll probably be told by many garages that Castrol Edge 5w-30 is the one to buy, but the one you'll find is generally the one marked LL, which isn't the recommended C1 spec quoted by Jag. One is low ash (C1), the other one isn't (LL - see photo) but to look at the label most people wouldn't know there was more than one version. How would you?

Yes it is, and it will be going back to have the fuel filler cap issue fixed at a later date when I can arrange to get a lift back, as that's not a cheap fix apparently. But it has cheap crappy tyres on it, based on reviews I've read (Joyride RX6) so I'd rather change the tyres and get them balanced, and get the tracking checked locally in the meantime rather than do an 80 mile round trip and have to leave the car there and make my way back by train or whatever in the meantime - that, and going back for the car would probably cost more than having the tracking done locally and I'll know it's been done properly. Of course, if the vibration is due to something else then it will have to go back to be sorted in any event but if I get it checked locally first i'll know exactly what needs doing which I think is important if it's anything more serious.

Thanks, I'll look out for that. I've also found a garage in Blackpool that does off-vehicle DPF revamps too, and quotes around £300. They stated that it tends to happen mostly on the 3.0d engine at around 75-80k. Other people seem to have paid up to £600 so it sounds quite reasonable, should it ever be required.

Pic.

I've got a couple of official recommendations now, one from Castrol and I think the other was from Shell. I'll post the details tomorrow. Seems the thing to be careful of is the manufacturers tend to use the same branding for all the different variants (e.g. Shell Helix Ultra), but there are different types and not all are low ash.

Yes, I'm usually cynical too when it comes to garages, but it was actually my idea to do the diag to see if I could get an idea of what condition it's in, and to be fair he actually said he thought it would be OK and that they tend to need removing and cleaning at around the 75-80k mark. Mine's done 52k. I may just get one of those readers, I'm intending reading through the dpf threads to find out which ones are recommended, not had the time yet.