yelnats69

It might be an idea to consider dropping the complete engine splash guard/undertray with it still attached to the front bumper if this could be done then you could separate the front off the car with plenty of room. Where are you located? I am away till January the 25th but available from then on

Can any member tell me the size of the two nuts that hold the rear lamps in position. I need to remove mine to try and fix the parking aid, but have a real limited tool kit in the UK and nothing to fit these, they look typically like off mark size left over from the Lucas days.

I have limited resources to check it out, so will try and find a local garage. It almost sounds like the tire is rubbing slightly on full lock

Over a period of time, the upper part of the door/window surround can bend slightly causing wind noise. Tape the door up with easy peel masking tape climb in through the passengers door and take it for a spin, or try pulling/pushing the upper door frame in with a finger while driving sometimes there is just enough give to cause a noise. The trick is (if it needs it) is some blankets and a 4x2 piece of wood pass through the open window to east the upper frame back slightly, easy on a ford tricky on a jag done correctly doors will be super silent

If I am hard on left lock, I get a dull clicking sound not unlike a drive shaft beginning to fail, only on full left hand lock...any ideas? seems to be in direct relationship to wheel speed 2005 s-type 2.7D

is it possible to replace the outer front parking assist sensors without removing the front bumper or just partly removing it. I don't have the facilities to remove the bumper and was hoping for a miracle I suppose I could give the wife the keys...

Its strange that you have front and rear sensors but no overhead button, are you sure you have the genuine jag kit, could be third party. On mine I found that failure was due to wet road conditions/car wash, moisture gets into them. They worked fine after the car had been stored for 3 months in the dry till I used it in the rain. In theory providing they are all clicking they should work so try the clicking hearing test. I understand the outside rears can be replaced by removing the rear lights the inner rears require bumper removed. I am still trying to find out if the fronts can be accessed without removing the front bumper nobody seems to be able to answer that question.

the best way to test the sensors is with a mechanics stethoscope about 5 ponds on ebay, if the sensors are all working you will here a distinct rapid clocking noise from each one when forward or reverse is sected. On my 2005 2.7 I have a duel module in the boot that has plugs for front and back. In my case the red overhead warning light is on, I have a single front sensor not working, but the rears click but do not work, I am trying to find out... If one front sensor will knock the whole system out (front and rear) if you can change out the front outside sensors without removing the front bumper. If you live in kent we could meet up and try to sort them out. I have a spare loom and can test sensors by plugging into my car Stan stan

I have done it and with very limited space and tools (head light repair) , and would say is pretty easy. why are you removing the bumper? where do you live? I need to remove mine, maybe we could do it together? a friend helped me.

I will second that, slightly corroded is a long way from being dangerous, I would get under there with a wire brush and a spray can of under seal

Any breakers near you, would be worth a look, even if damaged you are a brave man to attempt without a guide. Those cover caps are a snug fit, and the little flexible connector that keeps them in place break easily. Where are you located

Just standing behind the vehicle won't be close enough to here them working, you have to put your ear on each one to hear a rapid clicking noise if they are working, better still get one of those cheap mechanic stethoscope and listen to each one.

You can buy just the blade inserts (just the rubber bit) around a fiver a pair they slide right in, I use them on all my vehicles.

Try resetting the system by disconnecting a battery lead for a few minutes Make sure you have the radio code written down before you do as you will need it afterwards. That's all I cam suggest

I will be laying up my S-type for three months, while I go on vacation, in the past I have left a trickle charger on her. But now there is no electric where parked. I have three options Leave it as is, disconnect the battery remove the battery and take to my apartment to trickle charge. what would you suggest. I do have breakdown coverage with home start.

I don't know about it being an exact science, its certainly not rocket science to change a wing. From memory I think the front wings are bolted on a quick look along the upper channel between wing and bonnet will tell you (I don't have my car here) Assuming they are bolted than the average guy should be able change the wing, A tip before you start, run masking tape along the door edge, bonnet edge and all adjoining panels, this will protect the edges while you fiddle about lining up the replacement wing. Because you are replacing due to rust not damage, its just a case of finding the fixings, you might find a wing the exact colour if you are lucky, tip: take a look at the new wing to see the fixing points. Obvious stuff like the wheel and inner mud shield have to be removed to gain access to the fixing bolts. if you cant get to a fixing that has corroded simply cut open the old wing to gain access the you can work on the stubborn bolt from both sides. make sure when offering up the new wing that all edges are protected with masking tape. look at the gap between the door and wing, bonnet and wing on the other side, and speed some time jiggling the new wing about so the gaps are the same. The masking tape will stop the wing catching the door and chipping the paint. take extra care when closing the door during fitting and alignment. Tip leave all bolts slightly loose so you can perfect the gaps I assume is a used wing so make sure its got or add some rush prevention to stop it happing again before you fit it. (make sure protection is well dry before you start) Clean any corroded bolts and apply some grease to the thread.. lastly if I am wrong about the wings being bolted on and they are in fact spot welded in position then the welds have to be drilled out (tedious but simple) then the wing is held in position with clamps and when the gap is right use good quality self tapping metal screws to secure the wing, before borrowing a mig welder to put a series of welds where the old spots were drilled out. Tip make sure you paint over the new welded areas or they will rust very quickly. post some before and after photos. .

Josh, you need to get the radiator filled to the correct level, then test it hopefully it is overfilled. what does the coolant and oil look like is it clear of any milky like stuff floating around, or signs of water in the oil? of excess water or steam from the exhaust, is the temperature in the normal range? You may be able to remove the water level sensor and clean it unless is all digital. I have never needed to check mine but other members can help you on that point. You can get the system pressure tested and tested for carbon/cylinder heads at a decent repair shop. In the old days we just unplugged the sensor and short the wires to test, but as I said it may be digital, so don't try that till you find out.

I know on my Chrysler 300 you can get louder upgrade from main dealer, might be an idea to give them a call. I would add that the jaguar to me sounds loud, but wife cant hear them, yet on the Chrysler I could not hear them but she could, it maybe case of the different frequencies than the loudness. Having said that, don't know where the sounder is located on the S-type (other members can help with location) they might be obstructed or even taped over my the PO. if its anything like the Chrysler they use a small piezo sounder and in my case it was cheaper to buy a new (louder buzzer) and just soldering it in after removing the old unit, there is normally a manufactures part number or code, if you can get that then you can look up the specs, you need to know the voltage and the sound level, the voltage is critical, the sound level is a matter of choice, Maplin electronics store may even let you hook up to a battery, or just but s couple of different values from ebay (make sure the voltage is correct) they are under £5 each.. Just looked in the manual and the front sounder is in the instrument cluster, the rear unit seems to be a stand alone unit. Just found the information on the front sounder Digisound F/BMS3408-01 it appears to be a small speaker/sounder easily accessible once you have unclicked the instrument rear clusted. Hope this helps

Mine has suddenly dropped to about 26mpg on local runs, the car runs fine and I have not noticed excessive smoke or loss of performance while motoring normally. Since I'v owned the car if I do a lot of slow driving (3 weeks or more sometimes) then floor it I get a burst of black smoke, seems to clean out the pipes, from then on its runs and accelerates normal. I was thinking of changing the air filters, any advice fitting or where to buy stan S-type 2.7D 2005

I would but I have to many fillings that I want to keep after a long ride.

With cost of gas in this country I normally shut my eyes at the pumps. But all of a sudden I seem to be filling up more often. What MPG can I expect for a 2005 2.7D driving more soft than hard. Stan

I cant help you, but a bit of advice, don't pay for a manual, they can be downloaded, I downloaded the electrical and the mechanical was sent by a fellow member, mines a 2005 2.7D so no use to you otherwise I would have tried to download them. I am sure a member will come forward with a solution.

Ebay seems the best price for disks. Let us know the outcome and the cost. I want to compare with local autoshops in Florida Stan

I have had brake judder on other cars that can be felt through the brake peddle, I am very light on the brakes and I have a theory that that causes warping and judders, as my last 5 vehicle all had it. Skimming is hard to recommend, when replacement disk are reasonably priced. If you skim the disks and you still have the judder you will be wondering if the machine shop was any good, changing them at least eliminates the possibility of it being the disks.

Providing you have the SAT Nav, then all you need is a phone that has blue tooth and pair it to the unit in the car.. What system do you have in your car? if its a stand alone car phone I am sure other members have these and will answer your question, once we know what system you are talking about.