Wrinkly

Lamb

You will have to replace the actuator. I managed to find a good second hand one from a breaker who was very good and it arrived the following day. Yes it is accessed from in the boot. On the right hand side (offside).. Remove the finishing panels and you will see a rather strong looking bracket that on mine is coloured Black. Remove this black bracket and the attached electronics and with a bit of fiddling you can get your hand up in their to find two bolts holding in the actuator. Both need undoing but only one is necessary to take out. The other one slides out of a slot it fits into. The actuator can then be pulled out. One further but important thing, I established that there could be one of two different actuators on my car. I had to get the old one out first so as to establish which of the two I needed. It is very fiddly and needs a lot of patience. I achieved it and I am not known for my patience with fiddling with awkward things in awkward places. If you need to , do not be afraid to get back to me. Best Wishes and Good Luck, Regards, John

Proud

Purchased, as specified for my car:

Blackbirds

Summer

Bought this recently from Home Bargains @ £9.99p. Is extremely stable. Robust. Holds the screen very well. Does not obstruct view too much. Is massively adjustable to suit angle you want. Best Wishes and Regards, John

Fuel

Coal

Minor

Shine

Shoe

Martin I have a 2005 2.5 V6 petrol with 62,000 miles and have been through the very same experience as you describe. I am not categorically stating that my problem is the solve of your issue, just posing it as "food for thought". Have replaced all six ignition plugs and ignition coils, along with new upstream and downstream Lambda`s, had smoke test, new exhaust manifold gaskets (6), all OEM specification etc. etc. After the misfire, which was only on one cylinder (No3 in Bank 1 ) all went well for a couple of weeks. Then the code P0420 started appearing and would reappear after being cancelled. This indicated a Catalytic Converter problem on Bank 1. Eventually had the car up on a lift and found that the pipe from CAT on Bank 1 was, if tapped heavily with a fist, making a rattling sound as though as though full of bits of rubbish. A very experienced technician that was with me immediately knew that this was a bad CAT that was causing the Yellow Engine Warning Light and Code P0420. He had seen it many times before. It is apparently known that a misfiring engine can eventually "kill" a CAT, which my thinking is that it has happened to mine. None of the usual signs of CAT failure (high fuel usage, engine not running smooth, smell from the exhaust of rotten eggs etc etc) were present. I have now purchased a new Catalytic Converter (along with necessary fitting kit) and will hopefully this coming weekend be fitting the new CAT. Will report back on this matter once CAT is fitted and run for the 18 - 20 miles that it usually takes to make the P0420 code appear. Hope this may help in some fashion or form and good luck with resolving your issue. All the Best and Regards, John

Bought mine from Ebay, which was the cheapest source of that actual manufacturer at the time. Regards, John

Mick Yes the bulbs are changed, and in my humble opinion, are worth while doing. Not the cheapest bulbs but appear to have the claimed longest life, of their type. I paid £29.98p for the pair. Did not change the full beam bulbs because I found the existing ones were adequate and powerful enough. Best Wishes, John

Measurement

Bulbs

Sewer

Concrete

I have decided to "take the bull by the horns" and invest in a new Catalytic Converter. None of the other suggestions/new parts fittings have made any difference to the P0420 code. Fingers crossed that this will cure the code from keeping reoccurring. I will update as soon as the job has been done and tested for what is usually 18 - 20 miles, after resetting the code. Regards and Best Wishes to Everyone , John

I would appreciate if anyone has knowledge of, or photos of the correct fitting kit for a 2005 (facelift) S Type. Have checked on internet but there are various photos/diagrams/etc., showing what is supposedly the correct kit. However the vast differences that have shown up are just serving to make me wonder if suppliers do actually know what is needed. My own feelings are that the only fittings needed are a D Clamp (for joining the Cat Con pipe to the remainder of the exhaust) and an "O" Ring type mesh/gauze gasket that will squash between the manifold and the Cat Pipe, (when it is clamped on with the two stud/nut flange). I am wanting to have everything to hand before the job of fitting a new Cat is started and can then be completed, all in one process with correct parts. Many thanks in anticipation of your informative responses and help. Regards and Best Wishes , John.

Brick

Refreshing

Help and/or assistance please: I have purchased the diagnostics (as in the title) and have it installed on a computer to the exact specification as requested by the suppliers. The installation is good. However myself and my son in law (he being very computer literate, me at almost 72 years young not being so very good. I am mechanically OK and he not so much so. Between us we manage well.) cannot seem to find our way through the process of using the software to make a diagnosis. I have found an on line copy of the Jaguar Technician Instructions to using this diagnostic facility but it is some 3000 pages on a "Pdf" file and is plainly designed as a "teach in" document and NOT a "teach yourself document." Any help you may know of or could recommend would be very appreciated and we would both be grateful. Best Wishes and Regards, John

Sleep