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Have now found this link, which appears to answer the question and may be useful. https://www.jaguarforum.com/threads/s-type-cylinder-numbering.102059/ Regards, John

When Jaguar and OBD11 codes refer to left-hand bank of the V6 is that the left bank when you stand in front of the car and look towards the engine? I ask because on many occasions the left side of a car is referred to as being the nearside/passenger side. Many Thanks And Best Wishes Regards, John

Everything (I think) needed to install properly has now been purchase. Am waiting for arrival and then the fitting will be undertaken. Thanks and Best Wishes to all involved along the way to getting to this point. Regards, John

Joe My sincere thanks for the extremely exacting and helpful information. I feel I can now make a decision on what way to go with this current project to keep the battery in good condition and topped up to avoid the disasters I have read of battery running too low on S Types. Best Wishes and Regards, John

Joe It is the pain again. Please could I ask a further question on top of what I have already posed you tonight. I am being advised that the manufacturers advise that extensions should be no longer that 2.5 meters. I know not why, but what would your take on this reported manufacturers advice be. I wonder if it anything to do with the length of the extension causes a loss of power in the 12v line? Also, as I have tried cable into the boot and shut the boot lid on it, it crimps the outer casing (is that insulation) of the cable, which makes me wonder what will be happening to the two cables inside the cable. I notice 12v red/black wiring is available without the outer casing/covering which is plainly a great deal thinner than the twin cables with an outer covering. Would these non casing cables be safe to use or should I go for the outer covering twin cable like you have suggested in your last message. Sorry to further trouble you. Many thanks and gratitude. Regards, John

Joe Thank you very much for this explicit and informative suggestion. I will certainly go down your route to achieve my aim. I now realise I may need to go as much as 12 metres in cable length, but doubt that will change your instructions. One further question, if I may be a nuisance again. Would the same suggested materials apply if I went down the route of an CTEK MXS 7.0 or would a different cable and amperage apply. With many thanks for your time and effort in finding and sending these details. Best Wishes and Regards, John

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Jim My main problem is I do not have a garage. I am attempting to keep the 240v side of the charger indoors and 12v lead only outside. I will need something at least 8-10 metres to do so. Regards, John

Joe Have been trying to find a 12v twin cable at least 10 meters in length to attempt to achieve what you are suggesting here. I.E. Keeping 249v inside the house and only having 12v outside running to the boot. Am finding all sorts of cables being quoted at differing amps. CTEK extension cables are only 2.5 Metres in length , which will be very costly and have numerous joints exposed to all weathers outside. Am wanting a one piece 12v twin extension lead. 1/ What amps do I need for this wiring at 12v 2/ Am assuming that I will have to fit new CTEK comfort plugs to the lead. Do these HAVE to be soldered, as that is something I have never done and have no knowledge of. Many thanks with this ongoing saga. Regards, John

Whoops , sorry forgot to add the link. Older age does not come alone !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Link: https://www.sngbarratt.com/English/#/uk/home Regards, John

As a newcomer to Jaguar for the second time in my 71 years and not owned since I was about 18. I have found the need to obtain parts several times recently and this supplier has proved very fruitful for me. Also very helpful on the telephone, with advice and quick with delivery. Regards, John

I have tried a cable as described above and the boot lid crimps the cable. A bit concerned about what is going on with the two cables in side? Regards, John

Joe Many thanks for informative reply. Put like you have I can easily understand the safety of keeping the 240v inside the house, keeping the charger inside the house would also make it easier to see what status the charger is showing without having to go into the boot. I shall have to explore and see if CTEK supply a long enough 12v connection cable to reach the car and hopefully the plug end will pass through the bung entry I have identified in the boot area. Many thanks and Regards, John

Joe I feel certain you would be the person to give me an answer on this question. Found a slit rubber bung in the very lower part of the boot area, which looks obviously for passing a cable through. Would the item on the under placed link be safe if used for an entry into the boot area, if used with the caps that they can supply for each end of the unit when they are parted. I had in mind running a 240v cable to the car with one part of this unit attached to it. The other part of the unit would be attached to a 240v cable after it had been passed through the rubber bung. The other end of this cable would then have a 13 amp socket attached to it. This 13 amp could then be used to connect the CTEK 7.0. When not in use the cable in the boot could be pulled gently up to the outside of the boot and secured so as the unit did not dangle onto the ground under the car as it travelled. The other query is : on the write up for this unit "PE" is mentioned. Is there any way of explaining simply to a non electrical brain what "PE" actual is/means ? https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/industrial-circular-connectors/3594384/?cm_mmc=UK-PLA-DS3A-_-google-_-CSS_UK_EN_Connectors_Whoop-_-Industrial+Circular+Connectors_Whoop-_-3594384&matchtype=&pla-346913906554&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI7JOyzdS18gIVhuvtCh0q7g9dEAQYBSABEgK_UvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds Many thanks again. Best Wishes and Regards, John

Julie Many thanks. I will check that actual fuse tomorrow as it appears to be only feeding the console connection. Regards, John

Have now found a fuse box layout diagram and it appears the console 12v is on the same fuse as the handbrake on illumination light and is 10 amp fuse. My Handbrake illumination light (Red on the dashboard clocks) is working. I am therefore (rightly or wrongly) assuming that the fuse is in good condition. This does again pose the question why does this connection in the console not work. I have plugged a tyre inflator in there and it does not work, where as it does work in the cigarette light but only with ignition on.🤔😕 F26 10 2002-2008: Electric parkbrake switch illumination, AM/FM antenna amplifier, sunblind motor, accessory socket relay (cigar lighter and power point relay)

Julie Many thanks. The one in the dash is definitely a lighter, as it has the lighter in it. It only appears to work with ignition on. I am wondering if there is actually anyway it can be made to work without the ignition turned on. Is the 12v in the console likely to work with out ignition on and can it, if it does, be used to power a OTEK 5.0 charger/conditioner. I will have to attempt to fine out where the fuse for this 12v console connection is located. Many thanks and Regards, John

My S Type appears to have two Cigarette Lighter Connections: 1/ In the ash tray (never used thankfully) this will work if the ignition is turned on but is not live with the ignition off. 2/ In the storage box between the two front seats this one does not appear to work at all when anything is plugged into it, neither with ignition on or ignition off. Why does No 2 not work at all and can I somehow have either of them working with the the ignition turned fully off and the car locked. I ask this mainly because I want to use an OTEK 5.0, which Otek`s website states can be powered from a cigarette lighter connection as long as the connection stays live when the ignition is turned off. This would resolve the problem I am having with not wanting a mains connection into the boot, from the house, whilst the car is locked overnight on the drive because of not having a garage. Have been dissuaded by this Forum not to use the Solar Panel chargers which will connect via EOBD connector which works with ignition off and car locked. Many thanks for your time and any possible answers or advice. Best Wishes and Regards, John

Joe Many thanks for the advice. Regards, John

Leo Many thanks for your prompt reply. One of your comments is my reason for thinking towards Solar Powered. I unfortunately do not have a garage for the car. I would therefore have to have a live mains feed running to the car from the house whilst it is stood outside. Security is crossing my mind as well because I cannot think how to have access to the boot whilst it is locked. Many thanks and Regards John

Joe Many thanks for your comments on chargers. The main problem is that my car is not garaged because I do not have a garage and therefore a mains supply charger would have a power source from the house, which plainly would mean the cable would be outside. The cable would connection to the battery needing access to the boot, which troubles me little bit as it would mean gaining entry to a closed and locked boot to access the battery itself, with car outside overnight. I am now of the opinion that I should not buy the Solar powered version because a continuous charge to the battery could be equally as damaging as a battery running out of charge. Which only leaves me the option of a mains powered smart charger, the CTEK. A dilemma I am not certain of an answer to at this very moment, but there has just got to be an answer to the problem because I do not want to experience problems with a flat or running low on charge battery. Much appreciated information. Regards, John

Joe Thanks for the information and advice. Just out of interest, when you comment that some people reseal the lights after treatment. Any idea what they use to reseal them? Regards, John

I understand that S Types suffer with deposits forming on headlamp lenses. Some years back when I had Nissan Skyline they suffered the same problem and were very difficult to clean/refurbish. I do remember buying a cream type liquid which was sold on recommendations as it was used by USA Air Force and NASA. It worked very well. However I cannot remember the name of the product or trace any information on it. My recently acquire 2.5 V6 Sport is suffering the same problem. I have tried various products the likes of Peeks Silver cleaner which I read had been successful in removing the deposit, but it would not touch mine. Same applies to other things I had read like WD40, Brasso but non of these worked either. Is there anyone on this Forum that may know the USA product that I referred to or who can give advice on what will remove this deposit. It seems to only affect the upper part of the headlamp lens, which I find unusual as my Skyline used to get the deposit across the whole lens. Many thanks for taking the time to read this request for advice and looking forward to the information and or suggestions that I am sure will be provided. Regards, John

Joe Thanks very much for this information, especially the item regarding fitting a fuse. I am also contemplating buying the AA Solar Panel Charger. As it is able to plug straight into the OBD socket and will apparently produce an adequate charge even on dull winter days I feel this might be more useful for me. I sometimes stay away from home where I may not necessarily have access to mains power. Do you think the mxs 5 has any advantage over the AA Solar charger. Regards, John

Many thanks for the video. That really answers the question. It does charge via the EOBD connection WITHOUT any direct crocodile clips to the battery. I feel this is probably a better bet for my requirements and am strongly favoured to go this route and purchase one of theses solar panel chargers. Very appreciative of you posting this video for me.