drphilgood

Cannot find suggestions for Lincolnshire, but David here is very good. Recommended Unit 3 Sleaford Road Industrial Estate, Bracebridge Heath Lincolnshire LN4 2ND Telephone: 01522 539091 E-mail: info@lincsjagspecialist.co.uk

John, noted and will certainly keep your folks in mind should my screen start misbehaving any more often. Cheers

John, that's very helpful thanks. interestingly my 2 issues dating from when I bought my car, appear to have resolved themselves with more regular use! My vehicle had, I think, been standing unused after the death of previous owner, and had had all the usual Jaguar gremlins; new battery fixed a few, but the touchscreen issue and the problems with filling the tank/ frequent cut outs nearly drove me nuts! Did a long trip, requiring multiple tank fills and began to notice the issue was "going away", and now touch wood, have no problem with that. The touchscreen occasionally misbehaves, so on a run where I am not using any functions, I switch it off; instant re birth when I switch on again. Moral of story, like lots of other things Jaguar, give the ECUs time to re set and sort themselves out?

chaps, you can buy the Jag Wrangler upgrade from ADAMESH. Self install, instructions are excellent and it's certainly within range of even the relatively ham fisted like myself. about 400 quid, but it gives you a 'one touch' open/close and also allows you to raise / lower the rear windows according to your choice. Very neat.

now almost 6 months on from my last "update" and my car/ fuel filler is behaving itself, touch wood!!!! routine still, insert pump nozzle 'firmly' and ensure fully engaged, and increase fill rate pretty rapidly . Seems to be working and now no longer the idiot blocking a pump! Relief. I did read one other tip elsewhere; member suggested that its maybe caused by a build up of pressure in the tank if the car is left standing, eg mothballed over the winter? His solution is a. leave the tank completely full when he knows the car is going to stand, and b. before he next uses the car and goes to fill the tank, he wedges the filler cap open for 24 hours. His view is that that "releases" and pressure in the tank? It does kind of chime with my experience that my filling issue seemed to get better when I was using the car more frequently. When I bought the car, it had been very little used for a while as previous owner had passed on.

3 months on, and frightened to post, but the car seems to have cured itself. The only other useful tip I have learned after the months of frustration, is that now, my routine is to ensure the nozzle is fully into the fuel neck filler, (even to the extent of feeling I am forcing it into the vehicle), and then to increase the pump flow pretty rapidly and "go for it"! When it was constantly cutting out, I was pussyfooting about fearful of filling too fast, it seems now easier just to hit the gas literally.

quick update; did a recent road trip, excess of 600 miles , so inevitably regular fills of tank. first 2 fills, same issue, very slow fill. Third time noticeably quicker, fourth fill up, almost no issue, filled up carefully as ever but no cut outs on the put[p sensor and filled at "full rate". Subsequent fill at a different garage, no issues. Question; is the problem more likely if we are not driving the car often/ long distance so there is a pressure build up?

Thanks Steve, will certainly try this next time! The infuriating thing is that occasionally it fills ( and I generally use the same garage and pump for E5), without any issue. Go back 10 days later and bad as ever

Without wishing to duplicate a post, could I just add a few “update” comments, having the same problem and looking at every forum I can think of! Firstly, this is a common Jag problem and not restricted to XKs; indeed, I understand Jaguar issued a modified fuel filler neck for the XF. It may be related to oversensitive pump sensors, of course, but actually in some cases, its the car not the pump! Also, note, the filler system is different (on XKs,) between EU and NA models, so likely that the EVAP canister problem suggested on many forums does not cause the issue on UK cars. The other point to be aware of is that most JLR dealerships will “claim” ignorance of it being a car problem, (mine certainly did!) if you are unlucky to have a vehicle that suffers, then please try all the self help suggestions ie angling the nozzle, turning it to 90 degrees etc. It may work! However, there are clearly some problem cars which no matter what you try, the slow fill problem may persist. Very sadly, I have not yet stumbled upon the solution, and as mentioned, not getting any help or advice from JLR either. The problem certainly seems more prevalent as the tank fills to ward’s capacity, and to make matters even more frustrating, sometimes filling up works okay. It is not related to different pumps either, because I can only access one pump locally with E5, (and before anyone suggests it, happens just as often with E10) If anyone else has discovered a fix, would be delighted to hear 👂

Done mine as Jim suggests and then used UHT spray paint to re furbish, (stove paint will do the job too), looks as good as new

Jim, I knew I would find a new use for a hairdrier now mine has gone ….

Thanks Jim, I rather feared that would be the answer but just hoped someone might have a “cunning plan”!

Quick question! Does anyone have an idiots guide to removing alloy wheel hub centres; without damaging them or the alloy and , without personal injury? I know the fail safe is to remove the wheel and pop it out from inside but ….TIA Phil

Many have over the years, purchased and been very staisfied with the,performance of Aldi’s “own brand” trickle charger. Seems very durable and reliable and compares very favourably with the CTEK market leader. Noted this week in m6 store at £12.99

Wirel-ess Bluetooth Car Adaptor Music Interface Compatible with Range Rover, Land Rover, Jaguar in car Pod Integration https://amzn.eu/d/3Gq5qyd just bought this. It was the cheapest of several similar units on Amazon UK. Arrived with 24 hours. Simple plug and play; iPhone already connected via BT to the Jaguar, then plug in the new unit and look for the new BT address on your phones “discoverable” list, and pair. Its well packaged, with sensible, readable instructions, and the added bonus of the ipod connector lead (which is 15 quid to buy separately). Follow the guidance about having existing iTunes tracks downloaded in your phone library, which ensures that your title and track info is displayed on your Jaguat info screen. That was the only thing that required some thought and care. Works faultlessly with wheel controls for volume/ track selection, and the existing phone connections already established are unaffected. May need to adjust your ipad device volume levels within audio settings menu, or adjust on the phone. Very impressed, probably still expensive for simple hardware but does the job and sound quality is excellent, (on the occasions when we tire of listening to the exhaust note …🤭

Update, battery replaced with high capacity 100A and no change, still having intermittent blackouts. Guess the next step is back to JLR main dealer for the software reset/ upgrade for the screen module. There is apparently a service advisory, though not to hand and would be grateful if anyone could post a copy please? May also post separately on the health warnings that should be associated with personally replacing a 22 kilo battery which was like trying to post a dumbell into a “over-small” letter box slot, and has left me with bruised ribs! There are a number of things I would do differently, (including considering the Halfords battery at home service). That was ruled out because their price for the battery itself was more that twice the price I paid Amazon for the same unit.

Thank you!

Very helpful, thank you

Hi Jim. Thanks. Now I have resolved the puzzle with the fuse boxes layout, (basically the 2015MY handbook is incorrect with the diagrams and fuse list), and I have established that the supercharger active exhaust fuse is indeed fuse 19 in the rear seat box, I can deal with the on/ off solution to the “loud” button. Previously used a custom built remote fob on a AM Vanquish, which is simply wired in next to the fuse box. It’s being made next week, and will be a more elegant solution to either fuse removal, or driving in dynamic all the time.

Update; had the covers off both rear seat and footwell fuse boxes. The handbook is incorrect! The schematics and fuse lists are exactly as for previous MY cars, ie fuse 19 for supercharger active exhaust is in the rear passenger seat fuse box, (not as my 2014 MY handbook lists as fuse 19 in the passenger footwell). Sorry for previous alarm!

Simon, may not apply, but noted that my handbook, 2014 MY car, specifically states “ beam pattern suitable for driving either side of the road; no need for mechanical adjustment or external decals”

Expert advice needed please. Previous model 2011, fuse 19 in the rear seat box, could be removed to facilitate “loud” button on the active exhaust . Presumed my latest, 2014 Dynamic would allow the same tweak, or the more elegant solution with a remote switch. However, checking my handbook schematics, I now find fuse 19 for the active exhaust, is listed as being in fuse box2, (the passenger footwell fuse box). My expert facilitator for the switch solution, Clive Chedzey @ CCCharger, suggests that the 2014 MY may be set up with a system identical to the F Type. This then precludes the use of the remote switch as the footwell fuse box has no earth facility for the wiring, (and a different actuator method for the exhaust valve control). Can anyone help / advise or generally comment. Am I restricted to just removing the fuse 19 in the footwell to have the valve always open?, ie cannot use the remote switch . Thanks in advance 👍

Previous posts in forums re screen problems always suggest (as with most electrical gremlins) that it’s battery condition that should be checked out and investigated first. My own screen lasts for upto 40 minutes before “black out”, and then can occasionally successfully “re boot” by switching on/off button several times, and if this fails, switching ignition/ engine off/ on brings everything back to life. My battery is only a year old and initial test registers good condition, but running regular trickle charge re condition programmes to see if that helps. Other posts have suggested new battery is the only long term solution?