LairdScooby

Kilt

Saucer

Competition

Hokey-Cokey

Welcome aboard Tommy! I'm on my 3rd Jag (1st S Type though) that i've had just under 2 years now, always puts a big grin on my face driving it!

Over

Suspicion

Hi Dominic - i was a bit unsure if you'd tested it both ways, by rights you should be able to see the headlamp washers operate from the drivers seat, i certainly can on my Honda and even on the Volvo before it where it was wash/wipe (so lower water pressure) i could tell if they were working. Fingers crossed for tuesday/wednesday then, hopefully it's only the pre and post cat sensors at fault. Not seen any snow as yet round here, seems to be Ipswich area which is almost as far east in Suffolk as i am west. Hopefully it will miss me!

I obviously misunderstood Dominic when you said ignition on position 2 - normally to me that means engine not running. If the engine was running and nothing happened when it should have done then it's fair to say your headlamp washers don't work at all. Could be a fuse, relay or something more complicated. I do like to have AC working on cars that are meant to have it, my Volvo (predecessor to the Honda) had AC but the previous owner had the evaporator removed thanks to incorrect diagnosis on why there was no air coming out of any of the outlets from the heater! Turned out that fault was 3 dry solder joints on a vacuum control module which i fixed. I also sourced a replacement evaporator but never got round to recommissioning the AC on the Volvo. I do however fully intend to source a replacement pipe for the AC on the Jag and get it up and running as it should be, only trouble is that for mine, the pipe in question is either NLA or the sharp end of £500, the jury is out on which pipe exactly it is! However, i suspect i could get a replacement made by Pirtek or a similar firm for considerably less. Any news on the diagnosis of the EML so far?

Hmmmm, not quite Dominic ......... I'm not 100% sure on this but many cars i've known with headlamp power washers will only operate the headlamp wash pump if the engine is running and alternator charging as the pumps take a lot of power. You'll hear the headlamp wash pump if it works over the engine if it is going to work, if not could be a fuse or relay that's dead. I understand not bothering to get a weak system up and running, i'm just a fussy article and if it's fitted i like it working - that said the AC doesn't work in my Jag at present thanks to a leaky pipe. I do plan on getting it working though as it really needs the AC to help demist the screen, especially in the current weather! I'm currently suspecting my coolant level is a little low as it tends to blow cold from the heater while pootling around town so i must get out there and check that soon!

Unlucky

It sounds as if they want to see what's been done and if this is an ongoing problem Dominic. As for the NS headlamp washer jet cover : https://parts.jaguarlandroverclassic.com/xr856387xxx-jet-cover.html?code=11868 It says out of stock, maybe because the last 3 characters in the part number (i believe) should be the colour code so won't show uncoloured parts. I suspect it broke because it's 20 years old, no reason to touch it to remove the bumper for headlamp removal. Easy way of finding if the system is U/S is to get your glamorous assistant to sit in the car with the engine running and headlamps on and operate the screenwash - the headlamp washers jets should rise up under water pressure and then squirt when raised. Whether that's helpful to know whether you can glue it back on or not is another matter. You might be better off putting a wanted ad on here or perhaps trawling ebay for a replacement than trying to glue it on. Would these be the cruciform clips you mean? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/404269387993 If so, it might be a cost effective solution!

The point i was making wasn't that they were CANBus compatible (that is just a bonus) but the fact they are T10 LEDs so are a direct replacement. Day Running Lights are much brighter, in the UK they are 200-800Lm in brightness so considerably brighter than the H3 bulbs you repurposed. As for CANBus, i worked with the guy who developed/designed the I2C system which was the predecessor of the CANBus system as we now know it so i'm reasonably familiar with the workings of it - also the system will be looking for the resistance of a 5W bulb, ~24 Ohms - an H3 will (or at least should) be ~2.6 Ohms so the H3 LEDs could present an unexpected load to the CANBus system.

Stranger

Why didn't you just buy some CANBus compatible T10 LEDs? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/334567810243?var=543657059804 Before : After : Same bulbs work well on the number plate lights too : Oh yeah, those are LED tail and stop/tail bulbs too. 😛 Don't know where you got your figures from but the standard 5W T10 bulb (aka W5W) is ~90Lm, the H3 should be 1200-1600Lm to give similar output to the halogen version it replaces and the T10 LED i linked to is ~120-150Lm.

Beach

Hi Dominic - crikey, a garage that opens at 7am??? 😮 I think i would look at getting the pre and post cat Lambda sensors eplaced before the cats, purely on a cost basis and also the fact the sensors are more likely to be tired/failed than the cats. Will be interesting to hear what the garage has to say and what the codes are. I think this week is going to be a hectic one with various things happening!

Broke

Engine

Metamorphosise

Re-invent

Horse

Generator

Hmmmm, sounds like what i refer to as a "compound fault" - one that has one set of symptoms but multiple causes. These usually only become apparent when one of them is fixed and cures part of the fault. It does sond like the catalogue of problems i have had with my Honda which started when i got it with the EML on and 12 1/2 months MoT - alarm bells immediately! The code putting the EML on was the knock sensor, Honda very cleverly hid this tiny little sensor where only contortionists with the reach of Guy the Gorilla and fingers/hands as small as Thumbelina could reach it. I had to create a tool using my 1/4" drive socket set and some 6mm bore fuel hose and a few other imaginative bits to be able to change it. All was good until the front brakes decided to start binding for no apparent reason, throwing the engine load/mixture out and causing the knock sensor light to reappear, aided and abetted by the PCV valve being weak and the hose to said PCV valve collapsing when warm. All of this has largely been intermittent so has been a nightmare to track down and much of it has been guesswork/hunches but on the upside, it has still been reliable. It's reading between the lines on fault codes on many occasions that lead to the real fault.

Reactor